Clutch Fork

border · Jan 19, 2020

I'm in the process of a Long 110 rebuild. Been on hold for a couple of months due to family crisis but need to get back in to it again.
Anyway here's where I'm at in pics, still a long way to go, got all electrics and interior to do yet.
Thought Id get the engine all piped and wired up before I fit wings. Now a few months ago I fitted Brand New Clutch Kit, BUT It was done in a hurry on the day and I fitted just the ordinary Fork Not Heavy-duty. It is brand new but, cant stop thinking I should have waited and ordered the Heavy duty one.
Question is Should I change while I can still get to it as don't have engine hoist anymore, or would this one still last the Clutch out before I need to change it.

payydg · Jan 19, 2020

If it’s a new standard one I wouldn’t bother. It’ll last till the next clutch change and you can check it then.

kevstar · Jan 19, 2020

payydg said:
If it’s a new standard one I wouldn’t bother. It’ll last till the next clutch change and you can check it then.

It was my understanding that the heavy duty clutch for was just a bit of flat bar welded across the fork.
I just gave a brand new one away today.

payydg · Jan 19, 2020

kevstar said:
It was my understanding that the heavy duty clutch for was just a bit of flat bar welded across the fork.
I just gave a brand new one away today.

Yeh that’s exactly it. Meant to help prevent failure from the push rod wearing through.

kevstar · Jan 19, 2020

payydg said:
Yeh that’s exactly it. Meant to help prevent failure from the push rod wearing through.

Yes thought as much.

border · Jan 19, 2020

Yes the heavy duty one has flat bar welded across . The one I put in is just the Standard with no bar ,
Might take a chance and leave it as is, would save a lot of hassle Lifting engine off again.

Al2O3 · Jan 19, 2020

border said:
Yes the heavy duty one has flat bar welded across . The one I put in is just the Standard with no bar ,
Might take a chance and leave it as is, would save a lot of hassle Lifting engine off again.

I'm going back about 15 years now when my clutch fork pushed through. I'd estimate it had about 80+K miles on the clock. So you should get a fair few miles out of it. Did you lube the ball of the push rod? Easily sorted it you didn't.

border · Jan 19, 2020

Al2O3 said:
I'm going back about 15 years now when my clutch fork pushed through. I'd estimate it had about 80+K miles on the clock. So you should get a fair few miles out of it. Did you lube the ball of the push rod? Easily sorted it you didn't.

Sounds reassuring . Cant remember if I lubed it or not, How easy Is it to do now ?

kevstar · Jan 19, 2020

border said:
I'm in the process of a Long 110 rebuild. Been on hold for a couple of months due to family crisis but need to get back in to it again.
Anyway here's where I'm at in pics, still a long way to go, got all electrics and interior to do yet.
Thought Id get the engine all piped and wired up before I fit wings. Now a few months ago I fitted Brand New Clutch Kit, BUT It was done in a hurry on the day and I fitted just the ordinary Fork Not Heavy-duty. It is brand new but, cant stop thinking I should have waited and ordered the Heavy duty one.
Question is Should I change while I can still get to it as don't have engine hoist anymore, or would this one still last the Clutch out before I need to change it.

Are you not painting/finishing the bulk head before fitting engine ect ??

kevstar · Jan 19, 2020

border said:
Sounds reassuring . Cant remember if I lubed it or not, How easy Is it to do now ?

Undo clutch slave & grease your rod

tottot · Jan 19, 2020

I have had my 90 a long time, the first time I changed the clutch was because of arm failure. Replacement was a standard arm. Last year I changed the clutch again. Did it at similar mileage to the first change because clutch had gone heave. The heaviness was because a release arm paddle was missing, however the pivot point was fine with little wear, there was still some grease there, I had put a blob on the pivot at the change. The last change went with a heavy duty arm and a blob of grease.

border · Jan 19, 2020

kevstar said:
Are you not painting/finishing the bulk head before fitting engine ect ??

no Mate it is Not to bad , should have really done it all when it was off but this is my first rebuild, made a few mistakes along the way but will know better on my next one.
That is if I finish this one first , been on a year and a half now

kevstar said:
Undo clutch slave & grease your rod

Thanks Mate sound easy even for me

Al2O3 · Jan 19, 2020

kevstar said:
Undo clutch slave & grease your rod

What he said ^^^ Easy to do, even easier with the access you have at the moment.

border · Jan 19, 2020

kevstar said:
Undo clutch slave & grease your rod

Is there a bled nipple there for grease gun ?

kevstar · Jan 19, 2020

border said:
Is there a bled nipple there for grease gun ?

No nice try lol 2 10mm bolts iirc

jamesmartin · Jan 19, 2020

if you remove the slave cylinder , once you can get your fingers or pliers in ,hold the rod whilst you pull slave away rod has a habit of coming away with the slave

Al2O3 · Jan 19, 2020

@border did you fit the gearbox etc back on to the engine or did your mechanic mate do it?

border · Jan 19, 2020

kevstar said:
No nice try lol 2 10mm bolts iirc

How do I get the grease in there ?

jamesmartin said:
if you remove the slave cylinder , once you can get your fingers or pliers in ,hold the rod whilst you pull slave away rod has a habit of coming away with the slave

Thanks It is a new slave so will be careful when removing.

Al2O3 said:
@border did you fit the gearbox etc back on to the engine or did your mechanic mate do it?

We both done it, the engine and box was out on the floor at the time. Then we lifted it in place on chassis. Why do you ask ?

Al2O3 · Jan 19, 2020

border said:
We both done it, the engine and box was out on the floor at the time. Then we lifted it in place on chassis. Why do you ask ?

Just to see how familiar you are with the slave cylinder, push rod, clutch fork set up.
When you remove the two bolts and begin to ease the slave cylinder away you need to do what James says and hold the push rod to stop it being pulled away from the clutch fork. It should be held there by a small plastic clip, you might remember fitting it. Once the slave cylinder is out of the way you should be able to see in through the exposed hole in the flywheel, past the push rod, to where it is located in the clutch fork recess. It's the end of the push rod, in the recess you need to get a bit of grease on, you'll need some grease on the end of a long screwdriver or similar.

nobber · Jan 20, 2020

Why would you grease the push rod end? Thats not the bit that fails, its the pivot that fails. You wont be able to grease that through the slave hole, its on the other side of the fork isnt it? or am I having a blonde moment? I would just leave it alone, it will be fine.

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