Clutch fork knackered! Advise on job?

Drove the old girl back for 25 miles with no clutch, smelt a bit as i managed to get her on my drive. Question is do i replace the clutch while i am stripping it down that far?
Clutch fork knackered as rod not protruding from bell housing. Changing the slave and master while i have it all stripped down, but do i go the whole hog and change the clutch.
It seemed ok with no slipping but did scorch it a bit getting it home!
Any previous experience out there with people changing the fork and then having a problem with the clutch?
Advise appreciated.

clutch cover fingers will be worn from release bearing for £60 better to change it

When you see how much fun you have getting to the fork,I'd be amazed if you don't do the clutch at the same time

Decision made, many thanks for the prompt!
Spent 5 hours already today removing the props, slave and master, and ripping the centre consul out and all the rubbers and wire loom etc.
Will get a fork, bearing and clutch off flea bay and go for the ap one by the look of the threads i've read.
Many thanks

Make sure you get heavy duty fork(extra bit welded on back)

Second that on the HD fork , buy one or see pic and weld plate on reg one

Advise dully noted, ordered one from flea bay .
Think I'm changing just about everything I can now!

Slave and master might be ok-easy change anyway even if not

busagsx1300 said:

Advise dully noted, ordered one from flea bay .
Think I'm changing just about everything I can now!

Click to expand...

Hope you aint ordered some cheap **** cos you'd be better off leaving the old clutch in.

I searched the forum first and ordered an AP clutch, bought a new slave and master and made sure I got a 4 piece clutch so I have everthing I need.
Had a job getting the bolts off the props, nearly got the grinder out!
Even ordered a new reverse switch while I'm at it as I couldn't be arsed to do it before!