Clutch Change

Right, difficult gearchange when hot. G/B oil change has made no huge difference. New clutch purchased, along with a new O ring for the IRD Input Shaft and a Laser Clutch Alignment Tool.

Decided not to take my chances with a ECP El-Cheapo part (Transmech, or something) but went with the O/E spec LUK - looks good.

Go my mate lined up for Saturday, but wondered if anyone has any tips before I start taking things off (apart from "take it to Mr. Clutch").

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Ian.

I have had the same issue with my changes after my mammoth journeys back home to cornwall, it has never been an issue on anything shorter than that.

I'm certainly interested in how you get on.

Billy

My advice would be to check the hydraulics (master & slave cylinders) before starting to remove the gearbox, if it's a TD4 you will have to take the gearbox out anyway to get at the slave cylinder but if it's just the master cylinder you could save yourself a lot of time & effort.

Thanks Matacaibo.

I did ask a similar question before about hydraulics and was advised that if these do fail, it's generally with the pedal flat on the floor - which is not the case for me.

The vehicle is a 1.8 Petrol.

Cheers again,

Ian.

hi ian,i did my clutch a few weeks ago on my 1.8 and it is a nice job actually,not the quickest but fairly straight foward.When you go do undo the front prop from the ird if you look at the floor pan above it there are 2 holes,i found these handy to put some string through then tie around prop to support it,the only slight struggle i had was trying to allign the ird back onto gearbox but bit of twisting e.t.c it went on.If i can give you a TIP THEN CHECK THE CLUTCH FORK! one of the reasons i changed mine was cos i had a heavy clutch pedal and worse when hot/hard to engage gears and when i tried to move the clutch fork in the gearbox it was almost solid! This seems to be fairly common and i would advise to check/lube yours if you have the box out,when you look at the clutch fork there is a 13mm bolt,undo that then you can slide the release arm out from the box,i lightly rubbed it down and put back in with some anti seize grease and its spot on now so think it would be worth checking yours,apart from that its all good,hope it goes well....

That's cracking advice Bustermilo - just the sort of tip I was looking for. Much appreciated.

Just one question - is it really neccessary to remove the exhaust front section?

Thanks again,

Ian.

Tbh sounds like the fork seizing, not the clutch plate.

Check out my engine drop for a clutch change, no removal of driveshafts, not one drop of oil has to be drained, just the coolant and dry fittings.....simples.

All done single handed with standard tools, even a homemade clutch alignment tool, the plate was mm perfect

Thanks Northern Irelander.

I did think about dropping the engine, but I'm going to be doing the job by the roadside (not ideal, I know) so dropping the gearbox off seems the logical way forward.

The more I think about it, the more I think that the fork is probably the problem. Makes sense, because if it's become gunked up, then it would only need a little bit of thermal expansion before it siezes.

I've got the clutch kit already and if I'm pulling the box then it would seem foolish not to slip the new clutch in.

Out of interest, how did you make your alignment tool?

Thanks again,

Ian.

Allignment tool seen below (12mm dowel wrapped with white and black insulating tape, at distances of 2cm and 5cm from the end)

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/do-i-need-any-special-tools-43421.html

Clutchdust makes ambitious claims


You're two options:

Removing the engine (95kg)

Drain coolant into a basin
Undo inlet manifold bolts
disconnect electrics and diagnostic wiring plug
remove air filter housing
remove power steering pump & bracket
remove alternator (optional, just gives a bit more space)
Remove exhaust downpipe
Undo lower IRD to sump engine mount
Undo bell-housing bolts on gearbox to engine
Undo upper tie bar engine mount
Remove engine

For gearbox and IRD removal (45 + 30kg)

Drain IRD oil
Drain gearbox oil
Remove left and right driveshafts (seals need replacing on refit)
Remove IRD to Prop shaft flange bolts
Undo lower IRD to sump engine mounts
Remove IRD to gearbox bolts (Oil seal needs replacing on refit)
Remove IRD
Undo bell housing bolts from gearbox to engine
Remove air filter housing
Undo gearbox mounting (not pleasant task)
Remove gearbox

ahh yes exhaust front pipe!!yes you defo have to remove so pre soak the bolts with wd40,my manifold undone fine but frontpipe to cat i had 2 bolts snap so just drilled and replaced with new standard bolts..ive done clutch changes by removing engines but i think if you are roadside as i was prop better not to,plus i dont like disconnecting more than i have to cos sods law something will brake,i would bet money its the release arm/fork after fixing mine,and yes to go that far defo worth putting new clutch in.I just use a 1/2 inch ratchet bar and eyes for allignment tool but if you want to make one then northerns got right idea,pity you were not closer cos i would have helped for a few cuppas!! let us know how you get on m8

Bustermilo and Northern Irelander - thanks very much for your advice.

Took today off to start the job. Got as far as draining the gearbox oil and then started on getting the front section off of the exhaust.

Dwonpipe bolts totally siezed - and the ones on the front of the cat are so badly exfoliated that you cant even get a socket on them properly.

They look like they need a good blast of Oxy to get them moving - but I may take your advice and just sheer and drill.

Just one thoght - is there a gasket between the manifold and down-pipe and also from the front pipe the Cat?

Guess I'd better order some driveshaft seals, also.

On the up side, I did spend half an hour this morning fabricating a driveshaft removal tool - cut the centre out of an old brake disk (Volvo S40 IIRC), cut this in half (giving two semi-circles), welded one semi circle to a length of square bar and then chamfered the edge with a ginder.

Will post some pictures tomorrow - but I'm gutted I won't get to use it tomorrow.

Cheers again,

Ian.

sheer and drill would be easiest,there are gaskets but they are metal so you can reuse them,as for drive shaft seals i did not replace mine,good luck

One of these weekends, I'll actually get around to putting this flippin clutch in.

In the meantime, another question (sorry)!

I know that the IRD has to be seperated from the gearbox in order to remove the box. In the Haynes manual and the RAVE CD, they speak about shifting it across and resting it on the subframe. Sounds fine it theory!

Last week, when I was under the car assaulting the frozen exhaust nuts, I had a bit of a recce. From what I can see, the IRD is so far forward of my subframe that I really don't think I could rest in on there (block of wood, or not) without disconnecting it from the front propshaft.

Please don't tell me there's yet another thing to disconnect before removing the clutch.

Don't suppos somone has some photos of the IRD 'resting' with the gearbox off? I've trawled this forum and the internet without any luck.

As always, helpful advice and general abuse gratefully received.

Cheers,

Ian.

why are u removin the exhaust for i can do a freelander clutch on floor with air tools in about 2 hours its easy first job remove top bellhousing bolts an gearbox mount an undo the gear linkage an slave cyclinder bolts then jack front of car up an with axle stands under it remove anti roll bar drop links an bottom ball joints an back stabliser mount on drivers side an then with engine supported by jack drop the whole sub frame which is 6 bolts if i remember right then take both drive shafts out then undo the four bolts that hold the ird in an the brackets on side of ird which are 10 mm an 13 mm bolts with ird moved out the way an will give u loads of room to get rest of the bell housing bolts an starter bolts an then the gearbox will fall off its even easier if u have access to a 2 poster ramp but u havent got to remove exhuast or rear prop unless u droppin ird but u dont have to just remember if u do it this way when u put it all back together fill gearbox an ird with oil b4 u put sub frame back up as its easier an u have more room

craig_midz said:

why are u removin the exhaust for i can do a freelander clutch on floor with air tools in about 2 hours its easy first job remove top bellhousing bolts an gearbox mount an undo the gear linkage an slave cyclinder bolts then jack front of car up an with axle stands under it remove anti roll bar drop links an bottom ball joints an back stabliser mount on drivers side an then with engine supported by jack drop the whole sub frame which is 6 bolts if i remember right then take both drive shafts out then undo the four bolts that hold the ird in an the brackets on side of ird which are 10 mm an 13 mm bolts with ird moved out the way an will give u loads of room to get rest of the bell housing bolts an starter bolts an then the gearbox will fall off its even easier if u have access to a 2 poster ramp but u havent got to remove exhuast or rear prop unless u droppin ird but u dont have to just remember if u do it this way when u put it all back together fill gearbox an ird with oil b4 u put sub frame back up as its easier an u have more room

Click to expand...

Really! On a 1.8 K series Petrol? On mine, the front section of the exhaust bolts to the sump. This exhaust section also obscures three of the bolts that tie the IRD (or bracket) to the gearbox.

I'm all for finding a short cut, but having looked at this job, I really don't think there is any way around removing the exhaust and shoving the IRD to one side.