Clutch and Brake Master Cylinders.

Please Forgive me but Struggling to get these dam things set up right, just cant get my head round it.

On with Series rebuild this is where I am at , clutch and brake parts are all brand new parts from rear to front shoes cylinders drums pipes fittings ect, new clutch , fork slave, all pipe work, and both masters are also new.

No fluid in yet, trying to get them adjusted so I can get fluid in and bled ,

I can get the peddles at the correct height but just cant get how to get the 1.5,mm play when adjusting the 2 locknuts, looked at loads of writeups and vids but where exactly on the rod does the free play have to be ? does it have to be spot on ?

Just want it done right before fill with fluid and connect everything up to bleed.

Thanks

Fill it up & bleed it. Peddle height could change

Hicap phill said:

Fill it up & bleed it. Peddle height could change

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Thanks So Fill with fluid and bleed first before I start adjusting ?
I have 2 separate reservoirs , clutch has its own and brake has one of these which is connected to master with rubber tube. Land Rover Brake Fluid Master Reservoir Lucas Girling Series 3 101 90577636 OEM | eBay
This pic was taken before pipes ect were connected but you get the idea.

To adjust to give the 1.5mm , with both nuts slackened off you can rattle the plunger in and out as it’s a loose fit as shown in diagram , so then push the plunger in till it’s hard on piston , then turn RH nut 7 in above pic till it’s 1.5mm away from round cylinder then nip up outer nut LH in 7 without moving inner nut should give you the 1.5mm play

steve2286w said:

View attachment 268849
To adjust to give the 1.5mm , with both nuts slackened off you can rattle the plunger in and out as it’s a loose fit as shown in diagram , so then push the plunger in till it’s hard on piston , then turn RH nut 7 in above pic till it’s 1.5mm away from round cylinder then nip up outer nut LH in 7 without moving inner nut should give you the 1.5mm play

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Thanks Getting the Idea now, should I get the pedals at right height first before doing this ? and should the springs on pedals be fitted too before ?

Filled the clutch master up tonight tried to bleed it on my own with one of those halfords ezzy bleeds, it worked a treat when I used it on defender brakes last year but couldnt get it to work on clutch just running straight through before I could nip it up. . pedal was very heavy.

Anyway after a bit of googling I reverse bled it with a syringe, still not sure if it is right , still quite heavy, got a mate who drives a series will get him to check it when he comes tomorrow

Pedal height correct and sure the freeplay is as near as dam it so will see.

Dreading doing the brakes do I do the same as clutch ? no nut to adjust pedal height though, can I do it with the 2 lock nuts ?

border said:

Filled the clutch master up tonight tried to bleed it on my own with one of those halfords ezzy bleeds, it worked a treat when I used it on defender brakes last year but couldnt get it to work on clutch just running straight through before I could nip it up. . pedal was very heavy.

Anyway after a bit of googling I reverse bled it with a syringe, still not sure if it is right , still quite heavy, got a mate who drives a series will get him to check it when he comes tomorrow

Pedal height correct and sure the freeplay is as near as dam it so will see.

Dreading doing the brakes do I do the same as clutch ? no nut to adjust pedal height though, can I do it with the 2 lock nuts ?

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I clamped flexi at rear T piece. Clamped near side flexi. Bled the cyclinder closest to the pedal. Once this works remove N/s clamp. Then onto the rears.
Don’t forget to wind the brake snail adjusted out once they are bled

border said:

Thanks Getting the Idea now, should I get the pedals at right height first before doing this ? and should the springs on pedals be fitted too before ?

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border said:

Dreading doing the brakes do I do the same as clutch ? no nut to adjust pedal height though, can I do it with the 2 lock nuts ?

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Yes and yes
And for bleeding brakes clamp flexis as hicap says and work on each part in turn should do the trick and when bled do the adjustment

Thanks. thought it had to be farthest first , so if I start at drivers side, do I clamp passenger flexi, then once drivers bled release flexi and do passenger ?? then rears 1 by 1?
It has no fluid in yet, do I Fill Whole system first before doing all bleeding this ?
Also about how much fluid will brakes take ? mine is single line . clutch took very little as it only went across to slave at other side.
Sorry for all the questions.

You have no adjuster bolt on your brake pedal box so setting pedal height is going to be down to how much freeplay you set on the pushrod

lynall said:

You have no adjuster bolt on your brake pedal box so setting pedal height is going to be down to how much freeplay you set on the pushrod

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OK Thanks do both pedals have to be the same height though ?

border said:

OK Thanks do both pedals have to be the same height though ?

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I would say for symmetry yes
But whatever suits you and your feet best will be just fine

lynall said:

I would say for symmetry yesit so the threads were near enough the same

But whatever suits you and your feet best will be just fine

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Tried doing the brake copying the same amount of threads on lock nuts in clutch but pedal was way to high, will get it down more so it is near enough same height.
Are series clutch pedals usually quite really heavy to push down ? still not convinced I have mine right yet.

border said:

Tried doing the brake copying the same amount of threads on lock nuts in clutch but pedal was way to high, will get it down more so it is near enough same height.
Are series clutch pedals usually quite really heavy to push down ? still not convinced I have mine right yet.

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I suppose it depends what you are used to?
Series and Defender clutch pedals are harder and heavier than normal cars.

I see the brake pedal looks to have bene modified with a return spring and some sort of thumb screw set up?

lynall said:

I see the brake pedal looks to have bene modified with a return spring and some sort of thumb screw set up?

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Just put new springs back on, not sure if that screw thumb thingy should be there found it on another old brake pedal box that I had so assumed I needed it but it does not really serve any purpose.

steve2286w said:

View attachment 268923

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Thanks got Idea now, one thing though, the whole system is Completely empty of fluid, do I just fill from reservoir untill it starts coming out each corner, or is there a special way to fill ?

With all bleed nipples closed just pour in MC till full then start bleed procedure keeping an eye on mc level, and clamp as you go or leave clamping flexis until if you have problems later , with the easi bleed should work well single handed I have one of them
With new fluid and pipes I would reuse fluid in jar if clean , I would think half a litre would be needed or less

steve2286w said:

With all bleed nipples closed just pour in MC till full then start bleed procedure keeping an eye on mc level, and clamp as you go or leave clamping flexis until if you have problems later , with the easi bleed should work well single handed I have one of them
With new fluid and pipes I would reuse fluid in jar if clean , I would think half a litre would be needed or less

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Thanks gonna give it a go over the weekend.