Clunk after standing

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TCubed

Active Member
Posts
991
Location
Surrey
Hi chaps,

FINALLY replaced the radiator, after the car has stood for about 5/6 weeks.
Jumped her to be on the safe side, but battery was still happily opening the doors and turning lights on. The EAS was still raised somewhat, and after a quick drive everything is working nicely.

But, one little niggle: Upon trying to pull away, she wouldn't budge. Popped her in reverse high, felt like the handbrake was on. Same in D High, D Low, and R Low. Gave a little bit of throttle on R Low and she came unstuck with a pretty loud clunk from something... No problem since, so had something just stuck in the cold few weeks? The car had been in Park for that time. [DHSE Auto 2001]
 
Brakes did have a lot of that orange/yellow stuff that covers breaks that haven't been used... little too much that it was sticking the calipers?

That's good though, was worried gearbox might have seized up..
 
Probably the brakes sticking. Might be worth stripping them down and having a look, clean and grease things up and replace bits if needed
 
Probably the brakes sticking. Might be worth stripping them down and having a look, clean and grease things up and replace bits if needed

Thanks, I will probably give that a look over - last thing you want to fail after all!

How do breaks get stuck though? It seems as though it involves the caliper closing on its own??
 
Brakes do stick if they have been left standing for a while.....

There should be a very small gap between the pads and disc, but as a thin layer of rust forms on the disc, the rust layer fills this gap, as if you can imagine as the outer layer oxidises into rust, it expands....on boats 4mm thick of rust is actually about 0.75mm of steel.

so the minute gap inbetween the two can get filled with rust and bind the two surfaces together as the rust forms and expands...

as you apply acceleration, ths then breaks free with a snap, and moves the pads in the calippers back to where they are meant to be.

Nothing to worry about and after a few miles and braking moments all the rusty patches should be worn off the discs and pads...

a good check wouldn't go amiss but you are more than likely fine as is, aslong as the discs weren't brown with rust and pitted badly.
 
More often than not it is the handbrake at fault as it rusts in place, the handbrake on the RR locks all four wheels it can take more effort to free than rear wheel only handbrake. With the foot brakes it can be a mix of many things, but usually just because of water, dirt and air mixing between the pads and discs.

I suspect if you tear open the prop drum you'll see some marking on the prop where the shoes fused to it.

If you leave a vehicle standing for a long time it helps to release the handbrake, leave it in neutral and chock the wheels with wood. If possible raise it off the ground and cover the wheels or remove the wheels and store them indoors. To get rid of the rust, just go for a drive with a lot of braking (harder the better). Cleaned up in no time.
 
Thanks guys! :)

I've been driving happily and normally (and with heating!!!! whole thing was to repair that :p ) so maybe just find a strip of empty road for an emergency stop to clean everything up? or is that a little overkill? :p
 
Thanks guys! :)

I've been driving happily and normally (and with heating!!!! whole thing was to repair that :p ) so maybe just find a strip of empty road for an emergency stop to clean everything up? or is that a little overkill? :p
Emergency stop will just shag your tyres, just stick your left foot on the brake for a few seconds while you are driving, that will polish the discs in no time.
 
Emergency stop will just shag your tyres, just stick your left foot on the brake for a few seconds while you are driving, that will polish the discs in no time.

Goes against all driving instinct... but if that's what's required
 
Goes against all driving instinct... but if that's what's required

Left foot braking is quite a common technique. I use it a lot when driving on flooded roads as it helps keep heat in my brakes to prevent water from causing grief.

I have a 5 minute drive I like to take when cleaning off disc rust, some good stretches to get up to speed then slow down again using mild amount of brake pressure.

If you have pitting in the discs you're not going to get rid of that by braking it away, that calls for new discs (and pads while you're at it).
 
I checked the breaks before leaving, and they looked shiny; even if they weren't, some prat pulling out on me means they sure are now :p
 
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