Clueless landy owner in need of help...SW17 (Tooting) London

This is the badger

Is it the one at the bottom / middle of the picture?

If it is it looks like it might be rounded. I take it you are using a 6 sided socket on it?

Cheers

Was using a 12mm ratchet spanner as not much room for socket. Tried a socket after. Even tried 1/2 inch in case it worked but no luck.

Is the next bet one of those that essentially chews into the nut? Ruining it but that's replaceable?

wildey87 said:

Was using a 12mm ratchet spanner as not much room for socket. Tried a socket after. Even tried 1/2 inch in case it worked but no luck.

Is the next bet one of those that essentially chews into the nut? Ruining it but that's replaceable?

Click to expand...

the block drain plug is 1/2 inch or was, its brass so soft ,its worth trying to hit it using a large flat ended punch and hammer a few times then retry with a 1/2 hex socket

Hey James sorry it's not that one I'm talking about (though I couldn't shift that either so stil useful!)

It's the nut holding the casing on.

As that looks like a nut and bolt, I would look at getting a cutting device on it..........

Is it siezed solid or just turning in place with out undoing?

You can always get replacements.

Cheers

Any clues as to what? I don't have that many tools...though this is changing quickly!

Heas is crap at the other end too so may be cutting both off?

Sorry - to answer other q's.

Seized solid so far. Can't get to spin as nut just crumbles.

If it is a bolt head at the other end it could be knocked through....

Other option is try Irwin removers. But as you have said, In a case like this it may be easier to disconnect the PAS pump pipes and remove as one piece then have the local tool shop go at it with the correct tools. If you try something and it fails you are just digging a larger hole for yourself.

Edit: assuming the "bolts" are not actually studs in the housing.

Cheers

Sorry I may have confused you. I have already removed the PAS pipes.

I'm on the three fixings that attach the front casing to the block (2xbolts and 1xnut). It's the nut that I can't shift.

See last bit of this for what I mean
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/300tdi-p-gasket-replacement.171383/

Also. Less urgent but lost a lot of the fluid from the pas pipes and think a bit of dripping coolant may have got in too.

Any particular one use when topping up? I'm in Halfords now

wildey87 said:

Hi all. Progress is happening. Alternator off with the magic shock spray. 2 of 4 bolts out of PAS pump but the others are crumbling and not shifting despite spray, socket, breaker bar, chisel and hammer!

My alt plan is to drain PAS system too and remove casing with PAS pump intact. That way the engineers can probably get them out for me when re-tapping tensioner stud hole.

Any reason for me not to do this? Keen to crack on so I can have all back together before too long and before battery goes flat!

Click to expand...

Yeah , I am confused............read this and thought this was the problem.......

How you finding that new socket set? nice job on the 200pc

Great socket set. That and the shock spray sailed though most of the work. Just 2 bolts on the PAS that wouldn't go and then this nightmare nut.

wildey87 said:

Agggghhhh. So close. Did the PAS.

Did 2 bolts holding to casing but the long bolt and nut are completely stuck and as with many others on my 110, the fixings are crumbling when I try to loosen. Literally the last hurdle before I can get it over to engineer.

Any ideas or tips? Have tried shock spray hammer and various techniques with spanners. Really keen to get this done.

Click to expand...

It would help if you posted some pics of exactly which bolts you are struggling with.

But generally speaking I just destroy them out if needed. If the head gets shredded, cut it right off with a hammer and chisel or a grinder, lift the casting over, turn the stump with grips, or drill it out.

Difficult to be specific without seeing the individual fasteners, course of action differs with location and fastener material.

the bolt head is 10mm,they are slightly tapered so will round if a non quality socket is used if tight,irwin 10mm socket or a chisel will remove the bolt or the head

Right. Done that courtesy of Irwin bolt grips and perseverance!

Naismith have re tapped the hole for me so all set to reassemble except...

...I've noticed what looks like an old botch job on the water pump bolts. One (see photo attached) the three long bolts is actually a threaded bar of some kind with a nut on. Now. It's in pretty well and clearly doing the job but can't help but feel I should change it for the real thing while I have all apart. However I don't want to try and find I have more issues if that hole is stripped? Any thoughts?

Also anyone know where i could pick up a paper water pump gasket on a Saturday morning somewhere near brighton? That's the only other thing i need to finish this job!!

Oh one more. Is this right fluid for refilling PAS reservoir?

I've not broken down in Brighton, so no direct knowledge, but I've heard of these people. Might be open tomorrow.

http://www.crallenandsons.co.uk/

Haynes manual says to use ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and gives DextronIID as the spec.

What you've bought is probably fine, but since you're now on first name terms with Halfords I'm sure they'll refund you for it.