Clueless landy owner in need of help...SW17 (Tooting) London

yup - just pull the bottom hose off

When I did the P gasket on mine, the bottom alternator bolt sheared off - this goes into the front case, so I didn't do anything with it - I used the PAS pump bolt nearest to it and a repair washer to hold it in place. It can't go slack.

Thanks Steveo.

What do you mean in the second para? Confused the hell out of me. Were you able to get seized alt bolt out? Sorry if being thick.

steveo said:

yup - just pull the bottom hose off

When I did the P gasket on mine, the bottom alternator bolt sheared off - this goes into the front case, so I didn't do anything with it - I used the PAS pump bolt nearest to it and a repair washer to hold it in place. It can't go slack.

Click to expand...

b

Nope - sheared off flush and broke stud extractor trying to get it out! Filed it flat, and the alternator is a snug fit on the case

Ah so basically that is no not doing anything? But you can get casing off anyway?

IIRC, The casing can come off even if that bolt is still in place, as the bolt only holds the alternator to the casing , not to the engine block.

If you look at the link I out up before about the P gasket change, whiich shows the case being taken off, the poster left the alternator attached to the aux attachment casing.

Cheers

Cool. Thanks fellas.

Another question, anyone happen to live near tooting and have the tool to hold the pulley in place while using spanner to loosen viscous fan? Obviously as I can't get belt on with tensioner stud buggered, I need something to keep pulley still while I loosen fan. Turns out hand power not sufficient. If I could borrow tool (and possibly some know how!) tomorrow that would be amazing. No worries if not, will just need to order the tool and truck will be in a coma for even longer.

Have got the old belt that you can wrap around the pulley and clamp to hold it?

And don't forget it's a left hand thread on the fan.

boguing said:

Have got the old belt that you can wrap around the pulley and clamp to hold it?

And don't forget it's a left hand thread on the fan.

Click to expand...

That'd do it - you don't need to hold the pulley, its just a left hand thread, and the tool is about a fiver. Alternatively (and judging by the marks on mine, ) a hammer and chisel will do the job

Probably a 'special' question but given i am doing this piecemeal as no free weekends at the moment to work on her, is it okay to drain the coolant and then leave the engine like that over a period of weeks while i remove bits and get fixed?

I'm just wondering as it is left out to the elements and we had our first frost the other day. Will this make any difference?

Cheers

An engine/radiator system without coolant can't 'freeze', so no coolant is better than one without anti-freeze.

@boguing Knew it was a stupid question. But thanks!

Many stupid questions are asked on LZ, but your's wasn't one of them.

wildey87 said:

Probably a 'special' question but given i am doing this piecemeal as no free weekends at the moment to work on her, is it okay to drain the coolant and then leave the engine like that over a period of weeks while i remove bits and get fixed?

I'm just wondering as it is left out to the elements and we had our first frost the other day. Will this make any difference?

Cheers

Click to expand...

A touch of frost will do no harm. It needs to go well below freezing before it will freeze hard enough to crack anything, even with no af present.

If you do drain it, make sure you undo the drain plug on the side of the block. Just draining the rad will not empty the block of water.

@Turboman There's a problem there i am afraid. The plug on side of block is not shifting. Any attempt is sheering the nut. On advice of others, i was told to crack on and just drain via rad. is that likely to cause an issue?

wildey87 said:

@Turboman There's a problem there i am afraid. The plug on side of block is not shifting. Any attempt is sheering the nut. On advice of others, i was told to crack on and just drain via rad. is that likely to cause an issue?

Click to expand...

It will drain the rad, block doesnt drain unless plug is removed. As I said, it will probably need -5 or below to crack it.

Personally I would just whang the plug round with a sharp chisel and hammer, and get another one. You will need to get it out sometime.

@Turboman Fair one. not sure im keen on the chisel option though!

Will be ordering a new plug to be replaced at somepoint. But just want to check that if the block doesnt drain for this job, is that an issue?

wildey87 said:

@Turboman Fair one. not sure im keen on the chisel option though!

Will be ordering a new plug to be replaced at somepoint. But just want to check that if the block doesnt drain for this job, is that an issue?

Click to expand...

Why not?? One of the best techniques for working on a landrover, or tractors!

With a big nut, I drive in the chisel on the rim, and just tap it round using the hammer. Small nut, I just drive the chisel through the shaft of the bolt, cut the whole thing off.

Before I undo most components, I give them a couple of hefty smacks with a club hammer, bit of shock loosening, and show em who is boss.

No point in pussyfooting when you are working on heavy kit. You wont break it, but it might break you!

@Turboman Ha! Fair enough. I haven't tried whacking this one with the hammer yet as wasn't sure how gentle to be. I'll give it a go.

It's bloody hard to get to though!

wildey87 said:

@Turboman Ha! Fair enough. I haven't tried whacking this one with the hammer yet as wasn't sure how gentle to be. I'll give it a go.

It's bloody hard to get to though!

Click to expand...

As I said, you will have to remove sooner or later. And before severe frost would be best.

BTW, you dont have to tag me all the time, I am not a released offender, although some may think I should be.

I can see all your posts on lz live anyway!

I fond myself agreeing with Turboman quite a lot (!) - and in this case too - that plug needs to come out as soon as you can get it out.... and given the minimal cost of it, all bets are off at its chances of surviving the extraction process

IIRC, most of those plugs are brass, so it shouldn't be too stuck in the iron block - just keep at it till it comes out, in one piece or otherwise !! ( drill it out if necessary - I know the access is poor, but just make it 'ave it ) )

As said above, the Land Rover number one special tool, ( a BIG hammer ) is the way forward