Clueless landy owner in need of help...SW17 (Tooting) London

Yes, you're OK working in the street. I do all my car maintenance in the road out the back of our house. The only problem is having to hide all the tools whenever I need to go in for a pee or to get another tool or component. Provided you don't do something like taking the head off and leave it open to the rain, you'll be fine. Local authorities might start writing you letters if it is left in an obviously undriveable condition for a length of time. But everyday things like taking gearboxes out, doing bearings, head gaskets etc. should be alright.

I haven't 'done' a 300tdi or got the manual, so no direct experience either. Helicoiling isn't difficult, but I would suggest that doing a fairly important one that may already be compromised as a first go probably isn't ideal - taking the casing off would be my advice. It's not difficult to do, but if you're in for the long haul, buying the workshop manual is a good investment. If you're really serious, buy the official LR one.

@boguing Is that better than Haynes manual? Is one phrased in a slightly more 'idiot proof' manner? Ie lots of photos and diagrams!

I haven't had my hands on an official one for the Defender, but the Series ones are certainly much better. No photographs but plenty of drawings. I've found a pdf of the engine section, http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/300Tdi_Overhaul_Manual-Land-Rover.pdf, as an example, but you're going to need the engine cooling or electrics section

I'd imagine that car manuals are much like any other type and you need to find one that speaks your language. As an example, I can't get on with the 'For Dummies' approach to software, preferring more detail.

I do have a Haynes Defender manual to 200tdi and I know that it is seriously deficient in some areas, hence my earlier comment.

What is very handy is the 'Parts Book' which not only lists all the part numbers, but shows you the assembly order for everything, and often more clearly than any of my manuals. Where the manual score is tips on how to put them together, as well as dimensions and torque values. Parts book available as a pdf here http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Defender_Parts_Catalogue.pdf

Great stuff. Thanks for those bits. Between all the ones i have found, something is bound to help.

I have this workshop manual which i think is the best i have come across for my vehicle - only problem is it says it covers vehicles from 1996. Whereas mine is 1995. Just will be a case of printing out so i can mark all the various sections to get to them more easily.

I'll vote for the parts catalogue as being more use than the manuals too. Mine has pictures of most things, which whilst a bit small, are really useful if you're struggling to remember which order things go in - washer, spacer, spring, clip, split pin, nut etc. - plus it tells you what all the part numbers are so you can have a stab at ordering them with some accuracy.

That's the one. No idea why it says '96, because afaik the 300tdi entered life in'94.

Now you've got that you can get that cover off in no time. Draw the cover on a bit of cardboard and push the bolts through it in the correct places. If it's like the 200 they vary in length and you'll need to get them right when you put it back together.

Great stuff. Cheers all. Project for this weekend!

Chaps anyone happen to know helicoil size kit i'd need for the job?

Thinking of taking off the case but wondering if i should have the kit ready and then just get engineers to help me out sorting it? Or will they just do and i don't need kit. Just don't want to come to weekend and find i don't have what i need to crack on as want to get back on (and off) the road.

At the moment i am getting hold of:
-m8 x 125mm bolt to replace the one on alternator i'll likely have to drill out
-p gasket (metal)
-tap and die kit to clean out any threads in the casing

Anyone for anymore?

water pump gasket and some proper cutting oil for the HSS tap and die set. IMHO, don't bother with carbon steel taps and dies... but also be careful, cos if you break a tap in a hole, you're often in more trouble than you want

The engineers will probably have a full helicoiling kit.... but worth asking them

Get Naismith to do the helicoil, and you don't need taps to clear the other holes - just get a screw of the same thread and cut a slot along it's length for 20mm. Very effective thread cleaner and easier to use in close confines.

Take the offending stud with you to the engineering place as well as the casing so they can match the thread, it might not be standard metric you see.

@wildey87

Try to download the rave workshop manual.

Go to this website: Same one as given in the intro section which you had trouble opening.
http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/

Double click on the rave02.iso file. I normally download it into a new folder on my desktop or download it and move it form downloads to a new folder on the desktop.

Open the new folder on your desktop.
Double click on the rave02 icon

This will open a subfolder with a folder shown

Rave (RR'02- RR38-Defender)

Double Click on this folder
In the listing you will see a green Land rover Icon and the word rave.
Double Click the first one

A grey box will open, click accept

A nice view of the seaside will appear, click on this box.

You will see a list of the vehicles this rave folder covers

Click on Defender.

Cheers

wildey87 said:

Chaps anyone happen to know helicoil size kit i'd need for the job?

Thinking of taking off the case but wondering if i should have the kit ready and then just get engineers to help me out sorting it? Or will they just do and i don't need kit. Just don't want to come to weekend and find i don't have what i need to crack on as want to get back on (and off) the road.

At the moment i am getting hold of:
-m8 x 125mm bolt to replace the one on alternator i'll likely have to drill out
-p gasket (metal)
-tap and die kit to clean out any threads in the casing

Anyone for anymore?

Click to expand...

Are you sure for the alternator it is the M8 x 125mm bolt that is solid? this is the bolt at the top. The bottom bolt is M8x 30mm.

Also , you ight want to use some hylomar .

Cheers

boguing said:

That's the one. No idea why it says '96, because afaik the 300tdi entered life in'94.

Now you've got that you can get that cover off in no time. Draw the cover on a bit of cardboard and push the bolts through it in the correct places. If it's like the 200 they vary in length and you'll need to get them right when you put it back together.

Click to expand...

The 300tdi is not the same as the 200tdi. the water pump is a different front cover to the timing case front cover. Makes it a little easier.

Cheers

Cheers all.

@neilly think you might be right about bolt size so i'll look to pick up a new one from Halfords (cough splutter) i guess as already ordered most of my parts.

Hopefully once i have more of the bits out of the way (rad possibly not, but certainly pipes and fan etc) i may be able to get more leverage on the seized bolt and sort that out. Pending a tap with a hammer once or twice - apparently that helps as long as you don't go nuts.

Halfords may have them, but if you're ever in Wandsworth High Street, Belton & Slade will. It's a tool shop that I'm going to buy when I win the lottery.

wildey87 said:

a tap with a hammer once or twice

Click to expand...

Another trick worth remembering is that sometimes, tightening a bolt slightly before undoing it, can free it off... they quite often make a "tick" sound when they release...

If you are taking it to have it helicoiled , then the machine shop will have M8 bolts. Maybe capheads, but they will do just as well..

Cheers

Hey chaps.

The saga continues. Loosened hoses. All good. Went to drain coolant via bung plug on block (near dipstick) but can't shift it with out the bolt disintegrating!

Is there another way to drain coolant so I can crack on? If I do via radiator will that do same job?