Classic Problems!

Hello All! Iv'e just come back to the RR Classic fold after 8 years away.
Bought a sweet 93 Classic 3.9 auto which has a wedge of history mostly all relate to ABS probs. Well nearly sorted that one with new sensor "cages" but there is an annoying list of probs (True RR style!).

The new fault has me foxed.
When engine cranking on start the revcounter kicks violently to about 2500 rpm position and engine starts OK.
The engine managment light stays on for short while then goes off. But go to pull away engine nearly dies and engine management light comes on and ABS light re lights.
If the engine is switched off and then restarted the engine management light goes out quicker and the ABS light goes off quickly after moving.

Well if that wasn't enough sometimes when takeing a hard right turn the wretched EM and ABS light comes on, engine off engine on and the lights go out.
Would really appreciate some advice... Many thanks
Ian

check alternator as incorrect voltage will make ecus play up

yes alternator also runs the rev counter

Had almost the very same on my old Classic and it turned out to be the alternator. The turning to the right lock thing was associated with loose belts and the powers steering tugging hard on the system at low revs. A guy in an idependent suggested the fix and changed the alternator, problem was solved.

Many thanks for the input guys, I'll take a look

Defo the alternator or connections to it snakey.

Had exactly the same symptoms with one of mine, and turned out to be the alternator.


good luck,cheers

Hi Back again!,

Checked the voltages as suggested and got Battery Voltage engine off 12.6v ( a little low?) and when running 14.1V.
Checked voltage stationary engine running and going lock to lock with steering and voltage remained constant.

Did notice that the PS belt is very loose and someone confused seems to have tightened the alternator belt to its very maximum travel...hmm so I suppose it's new belts in the spring.

Other oddities are Cruise not working think thats down to vacuum pump not functioning, Auto dip mirror not working including the lights in it and the sunroof doesn't have any power getting to it.

Could all this be related??

Cheerssssssssssssssssssss

yes, they are all part of a landrover product and therefore ****e

I have this sometimes with my 1988 Classic - combined with the ignition warning light not coming on when it should. Does your light work OK?

Pete

Yeah the ignition light works ok its the EM light and ABS lights that come on together which is odd only at slow speed such as slowing and turning (5mph ish) but not all the time

Is there a link between the EM electrical circuit and the ABS circuit ?

Sorted the EAS heights the other day with the RWS software so feeling very smug.... for the moment anyway!

But hey it's a Range Rover.... these things happen

Regardsssssssssssssssssssssssssss

fett said:

yes, they are all part of a landrover product and therefore ****e

Click to expand...

I had similar problems, although my alternator was OK, but it keps snapping belts - turned out the pulley was rusty, causing the belts to slip and fray. Cleaned that up, new belt on and all sorted!

My interior mirror is also knackered - it gets power and the lights work, but the internals have gone so its permanently very dark and the reflection shows three of everything (a yellow, a blue and a 'normal') of the image! Very weird. Have just stuck a replacement mirror over the top of it, problem solved!

snakey said:

Is there a link between the EM electrical circuit and the ABS circuit ?

Click to expand...

I don't know - sorry.

My layman's understanding of how my 1988 Classic works is that the power through the ignition light supplies the alternator with an 'exciter' current which triggers current generation when the alternator spins. The alternator then produces the signal for the rev counter.

Without that 'exciter' current, the current generation and rev counter signal only starts after the alternator is spinning at higher speeds. This is why your rev counter behaves as it does.

This may not be exactly technically correct but it seems to be a good working theory.

I have intermittent problems when my alternator gets wet; my rev counter plays up, and so does my ignition warning light (i.e. it won't light up at all).

Pete

new bulb then

Pete The Biker said:

I don't know - sorry.

My layman's understanding of how my 1988 Classic works is that the power through the ignition light supplies the alternator with an 'exciter' current which triggers current generation when the alternator spins. The alternator then produces the signal for the rev counter.

Exactly correct

Without that 'exciter' current, the current generation and rev counter signal only starts after the alternator is spinning at higher speeds.

Only sometimes if there is enough residual magnetism

This may not be exactly technically correct but it seems to be a good working theory.

I have intermittent problems when my alternator gets wet; my rev counter plays up, and so does my ignition warning light (i.e. it won't light up at all).

Pete

Click to expand...

How does your alternator get wet enough to affect it, off road wading?
Other wise look for a bad connection

Datatek said:

How does your alternator get wet enough to affect it, off road wading?
Other wise look for a bad connection

Click to expand...

You may remember my previous post about my noisy alternator which turned out to be a shorted winding?

It's when the alternator gets splashed with mud when I am at my local pay and play, or sometimes just when the atmosphere is damp! It's not wading, as it's a V8 so i won't go in that deep.

Here is a pic of it on Sunday. The ignition light and rev counter stopped working that day, but revived by the following morning.

I need to make an undertray and a shield for the air filter before I splash about again!

Pete

Pete The Biker said:

You may remember my previous post about my noisy alternator which turned out to be a shorted winding?

It's when the alternator gets splashed with mud when I am at my local pay and play, or sometimes just when the atmosphere is damp! It's not wading, as it's a V8 so i won't go in that deep.

Here is a pic of it on Sunday. The ignition light and rev counter stopped working that day, but revived by the following morning.

I need to make an undertray and a shield for the air filter before I splash about again!

Pete

Click to expand...

That looks not just very wet but muddy too, not surprised it plays up.

Pete The Biker said:

You may remember my previous post about my noisy alternator which turned out to be a shorted winding?

It's when the alternator gets splashed with mud when I am at my local pay and play, or sometimes just when the atmosphere is damp! It's not wading, as it's a V8 so i won't go in that deep.

Here is a pic of it on Sunday. The ignition light and rev counter stopped working that day, but revived by the following morning.

I need to make an undertray and a shield for the air filter before I splash about again!

Pete

Click to expand...

I would remove that K&N induction kit and put the standard airbox back on with a K&N filter element! Stops the crud clogging the filter up, also prevents heat soak in the summer from the engine and means you can fit a snorkel But if you're gonna be getting it wet and/or muddy, I'd definitely recommend reverting back to the standard air box

Thanks Mike.

I had thought about that. I bought the Rangie with the K&N on it last April.

I haven't got it that muddy before, the reasons this time being:-

• there was more mud
• I have taken the valance off and I was being less 'gentle' about going in the water and mud this time
• it was fun!

More preparation definitely needed before next time, not least because the radiator was blocked with mud which did the temperature no good on the way home afterwards!

Pete

Pete The Biker said:

Thanks Mike.

I had thought about that. I bought the Rangie with the K&N on it last April.

I haven't got it that muddy before, the reasons this time being:-

• there was more mud
• I have taken the valance off and I was being less 'gentle' about going in the water and mud this time
• it was fun!

More preparation definitely needed before next time, not least because the radiator was blocked with mud which did the temperature no good on the way home afterwards!

Pete

Click to expand...

Fair enough! I'm no expert, but have been reading up a lot on it recently. Other things to do are protect the dizzy cap and coil pack from water (an empty 2L coke bottle + cable ties does a good job, I happen to work in a plastics company so have devised some slightly neater black plastic arrangement ) and also put plenty of grease on the battery terminals. A can of WD40 can help you get going again if any of these parts get soaked, so worth carrying one!

If you are gonna do lots of green laning/pay & play days I would also strongly recommend fitting front and rear diff guards (£30 a pair), possibly a steering guard and you may also want to think about electric fans to replace the viscous one - these can be switched off before entering the water, preventing water/mud splashing everywhere round the engine bay! Oh, and don't forget proper recovery points, e.g. JATE rings - the towing eye is hopeless

Pete The Biker said:

Thanks Mike.

I had thought about that. I bought the Rangie with the K&N on it last April

Click to expand...

Oh, and if you don't have the standard air box, this will probably fit - cheap as chips!

Parts & Accessories : Range Rover - Air Filter Box