P38A Chip tune, yay or nay

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Datatek said:
I have 2, the high mileage project car is quicker off the mark than my daily driver, neither are chipped. I think the intercooler needs cleaning out on the daily, I have done it on the project car. I have no trouble keeping up with almost anyone off the line at the traffic lights.
My friend had his Defender remapped, goes like the brown stuff off the shovel but he has had constant engine problems since doing it.
IMO upping the power on old engines is asking for trouble. In the past for me, tuning would be accompanied by an engine rebuild. these days I'm more interested in reliability/longevity of the engine.
Click to expand...
Me too.
I was quite happy until my head was turned:rolleyes::D
 
Could I swop over the engine ECUs without issues? I suspect, with nanocom, yes? Mate will probably say no though hahahaha.
Both are 2001.
 
If you swap the ecu the ems code will need writing to match, the ecu i opened up the chips just plug in might be worth having a look it may well have some thing on it to say its chipped
 
Remember I told you to get a non egr manual - now you know why o_O:p:D less nonsense in the mix.
Plus early ones were constructed by LR craftsmen, later ones cobbled together by bmw agency boys doing xtra shifts to pay for the **** up night before whilst clearing the D2 spares out of the new L322 bays :eek:

If yours was pushing out what it’s capable of your thread would be titled ‘how do I get more fuel economy?’
With autos condition of the box is big one on power so I have a manual.
My P38 is 27 now and much is original. Tired injectors, FIP, transmission, turbo all add up I know from others here if you put new injectors in one at a time you can feel small difference every one you replace. Ive not needed new ones.
I know when it’s service time as I lose mpg, throttle response and power - always got foot flat - shouldn’t be like that.
These engines are used on touring cars can push out fair bit - more than your engine will handle. They don’t run on veg oil mind o_O

Eventually you’ll notice everyone’s here is different and there’s pros & cons to everything, but everything I learned I learned here. Take interest in others methods/vehicles and you’ll notice some subtle and some bizarre differences to yours/OE ;);)
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Remember I told you to get a non egr manual - now you know why o_O:p:D less nonsense in the mix.
Plus early ones were constructed by LR craftsmen, later ones cobbled together by bmw agency boys doing xtra shifts to pay for the **** up night before whilst clearing the D2 spares out of the new L322 bays :eek:

If yours was pushing out what it’s capable of your thread would be titled ‘how do I get more fuel economy?’
With autos condition of the box is big one on power so I have a manual.
My P38 is 27 now and much is original. Tired injectors, FIP, transmission, turbo all add up I know from others here if you put new injectors in one at a time you can feel small difference every one you replace. Ive not needed new ones.
I know when it’s service time as I lose mpg, throttle response and power - always got foot flat - shouldn’t be like that.
These engines are used on touring cars can push out fair bit - more than your engine will handle. They don’t run on veg oil mind o_O

Eventually you’ll notice everyone’s here is different and there’s pros & cons to everything, but everything I learned I learned here. Take interest in others methods/vehicles and you’ll notice some subtle and some bizarre differences to yours/OE ;);)
Click to expand...
+1 to our mate ère!
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Remember I told you to get a non egr manual - now you know why o_O:p:D less nonsense in the mix.
Plus early ones were constructed by LR craftsmen, later ones cobbled together by bmw agency boys doing xtra shifts to pay for the **** up night before whilst clearing the D2 spares out of the new L322 bays :eek:

If yours was pushing out what it’s capable of your thread would be titled ‘how do I get more fuel economy?’
With autos condition of the box is big one on power so I have a manual.
My P38 is 27 now and much is original. Tired injectors, FIP, transmission, turbo all add up I know from others here if you put new injectors in one at a time you can feel small difference every one you replace. Ive not needed new ones.
I know when it’s service time as I lose mpg, throttle response and power - always got foot flat - shouldn’t be like that.
These engines are used on touring cars can push out fair bit - more than your engine will handle. They don’t run on veg oil mind o_O

Eventually you’ll notice everyone’s here is different and there’s pros & cons to everything, but everything I learned I learned here. Take interest in others methods/vehicles and you’ll notice some subtle and some bizarre differences to yours/OE ;);)
Click to expand...
Post 99 cars are much better than the early ones made to British Leyland standards:p
 
Have no sunroof, most unnecessary electrics like elec seats or a useless gps to interfere, EAS to drop, MAF to fault, EGR to cock up, TCS to go wrong, one less head sensor, proper metal manifold, no passive coil to die, no double liability exhaust, no silly silver striping down sides
and most of all no cup holders:p :D

Still breaks frequently :oops:

but is easier to sort through.
Still not required nanocom :cool:
 
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