Freelander 1 Checking an L Series

Saw a nice L Series this afternoon. Bodywork in good condition, all the switches work, so a good start.
I know all the usual FL1 checks but wondered if one of the L Series fans on here could point out any series specific checks before I take it out for a spin on Monday.
130k on the clock and I noticed it smoked a bit when gunned, but it hasn't moved for a while and had to be started with a battery pack.
Cheers

Black smoke? If so that's normal on an L series being thrashed - these were commissioned well before all the euro standards started to bite.

The only real check is has the timing belt, tensioner and water pump been done recently?

If it has they usually run till the end of time when not abused.

Love my L Series, hope it works out to be one worth getting for ya!!!

Me too. Can't wait.
Might also end up with dirt cheap K series if I buy it, so one reliable, one slightly less so.
Glutton for punishment.

get confirmation of when BOTH cambelts were swapped - and if over 100k, then idler and tensioner bearings too.

Make sure it starts within a couple of turns, as it otherwise points to either an air leak on the lines, or if it also starts with a cloud of white smoke, then incorrect pump timing.




Only that'll really kill an L, is a cambelt snapping. New head+belts, and it's alive again however, lol

someone posted on a rover forum that after the nuclear holocaust all that will be left is cockroaches and l series engines.

Excellent. Something that can survive me with a spanner.

you laugh, but there's literally a tuning technique called "The hammer mod". You literally loosen 2 bolts, and hit the pump with a hammer!!

End result is a bit more fuel across the rev range, without needing a remap

They're very robust little units

They pull strong but don't accelerate a Freelander very quickly. People tend to get hooked on their L Series. I don't know what it is with them but I really enjoy owning and running one. Simple engines with buckets of character that can be tuned heaps should you want to.

As said, belts are very important. Not just the main cam belt & fuel pump belt either - take care of the aux belt as well and especially it tensioner. They go (break or seize), throwing the belt which wraps round the crank pulley and takes out the cam belt and thus engine. Its by far the most common reason for L Series engines dieing that I've seen.

The turbos can need replacing, but the fuel pumps appear to last a life time, the injectors appear to last good (longer than the TD4s), clutches are OK (not fantastic but OK) and the PG1 gearbox the same - I'd expect the engine to last a lot longer than the box. The 1.8 uses the PG1 as well and although they're interchangeable the gearing is all wrong and they aren't built with such strong internals as those bolted to the L Series (they use internals similar to the 220 Tomcat box).

My L Series is pretty healthy and it will kick out a big plume of smoke if I give it some. Its not something to worry about unduely with the L Series - as I say, they have buckets of character

I'm sure you'll enjoy owning 1, so long as you don't mind being beat off the lights by fully laden 18 wheelers.

Mine's up to just over the 100K miles now. I've owned it 5 years and had to do nothing to the engine (other than servicing) until recently. A few weeks back the oil filter (which had been on for 6 months) worked its way loose and the diesel leak back pipes perished - both at the same time. Both of these appear to be quite regular occurrences on the L Series. The filter took a little time working out where the oil was coming from but just needed it to be tightened and the leak back pipe cost £9.

Just been out in it. Engine, clutch and gearbox seemed good. Bodywork reasonable.

However, 3 amigos and stiff VCU when reversing (mismatched tyres). Plan to use these to beat the price down. Did the 'I like it but..' with full-on disappointed face routine. Will make an offer later.

That description sounds like a good buy to me, solid car with reasons to knock the price down.

I've had the 3 amigos twice on mine - both times I've had to replace the main modulator. Its a bumper & light off job with full bleed twice. Might be something small though, you'll need to get the codes read.

I'd sort that VCU issue immediately or remove the props till you do. Mine only lasted a couple of days (admittedly full driving days on twisty mountain roads) with an undiagnosed tyre low on pressure for the IRD to go bang.

That's tough. I suspect the VCU has been like it a while.

No nasty noises from the IRD or diff that I could make out. VCU might be OK and me just being paranoid, but the seller doesn't have the background knowledge to argue.

Won't be buying it at the asking price though that's for sure. Want a full MOT with it as well so he has to sort the amigos.

Just mulling the price over. Feeling cheeky. Especially as car had a 'Part Ex. To Clear' sign on it.....

I'd be tempted to haggle on price without MOT. He might just find it only needs a brake peddle switch for the amigos, whip the prop off and sell it at a decent price.

Mind you, I'm going by NZ where L Series are expensive and cheap do-er uppers hardly ever come along.

take a look at the external oil pipes also as these are known to rot through ( especially on the Rover application leading to a dry engine ) might be a further useful bargaining chip if they look grotty

GrumpyGel said:

I'd be tempted to haggle on price without MOT. He might just find it only needs a brake peddle switch for the amigos, whip the prop off and sell it at a decent price.

Mind you, I'm going by NZ where L Series are expensive and cheap do-er uppers hardly ever come along.

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If he's going to d that then good luck to him. Can't be ars3d to deal with people like that. My last Freelander was a mess and I'm not buying another off a wide boy.
I don't need one today, I need the right one.

Woah! Seller got the right ar5e on so I don't think I'll be doing that bit of business.
Another local garage with a better rep has a nice L series hardtop for sale. Bit more expensive but probably safer in the long run.

Which bit upset him/her?

Telling him I wasn't going to pay the asking price because of the work that was required
Made an offer (not low enough to cover all the work, not taking the mickey) and wouldn't even discuss it. I'd have met in the middle.

I've been in that situation 2 or three times before, simply said if you change your mind you've got my phone number and on average they've rung me back later that day with a better attitude more times than I've not heard from em.