check engine warning light comes on, loss of power and black smoke

Hi

I've noticed a recent problem and wondered if anyone else has ideas how to fix?

The check engine warning light comes on intermittently, followed by a loss of power, as lift foot off accelerator check engine light goes out and power resumes until the light comes back on again. Haven't noticed if it is at any particular speed or going uphill or anything, doesn't seem to be linked with anything.

From standing, revving the engine there is some black smoke out of the exhaust.

Fuel filter only recently been changed.

Any ideas?

Mine was doing the exact same - 300 tdi auto. Turns out it was the airflow meter, £400 from Landrover, or 20-30 quid on fleabay from a breaker. Guess what route I took. If you disconnect the airflow meter and the problem goes away - bingo, you've cracked it. It runs well without it, but I'm sure it must be there for a reason?? Worth a try if you are still scratching your head.
Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on with it anyway.
Roddy.

I have the same problem and a mate disconnected the Air Flow Meter and the problem went away................

for a few days, then it returned on a night out green laning.

I have reconnected the AFM again so what else can it be?

I have the late ES Auto 300tdi, could it be the throttle possition sensor? I could not feel one on the pedal where I believe it should be.

Oh dear, my story sounds similar to Brian S above. My 'new' airflow meter has lasted about a month or so, and it's doing it again. Wouldn't normally be a big problem time wise to get it fixed, but I need the motor to tow the caravan next weekend for our summer holidays. Any suggestions what else this could be? My exhaust has a slight blow, are there any sensors in the exhaust system that could be reading a drop in pressure or something like that?
It's ok on tickover, and ok under power, but its just the transition between the two where it drops all power and the engine check light comes on -ie just when you are tickling the accelerator trying to keep a steady road speed it starts cutting out. :whoosh:


Cheers for any 'holiday saving' suggestions.

Your last paragraph is an perfect description of what mine does.

With my vauxhall, when the engine management light shows the ECU stores the fault codes so a reader can be plugged in to find the fault.

There is a way to get these codes by doing a blink test on the vauxhall by using a piece of wire or a paper clip, I wonder if landrover codes can be found the same way to save the cost of someone doing a diagnostics check.

I was kind of hoping you had found the answer to the problem by now . Our fleet mechanic is going to hook it onto his Bosch machine at dinner time today so I'll post any news.

Cheers.
Just not had time and not using it at the mo as MOT has expired.

Ok, here's what the Bosch told me. I quote :-
"Throttle sensor poten./safety switch comparison not O.K.".
Does anyone know if the throttle potentiometer is a sealed unit? I know they aren't cheap anyway

check ur intercooler to turbocharger pipes that courses the effect aswell

i have exactly same problem i have changed maf sensor ive disconnected reconnected egr valve ,replaced primer pump , been told now after diognostics that its the injection begin sensor ??? anyhow that it would be actually the elusive no4 injector which as this is the one with the wire and that is what actually controls this so called sensor after hunting one down changed it and ...and still the same slight incline or it basically tells me to go forth im at my witts end with mine however if it helps the no4 injector is the most common problem apperently ,but if anyone can come up with the solution please help

The best solution I have heard so far is to change the fuel pump to a non EDC one and go back to a good old throttle cable.

I'm still having fun with mine. The problems got a lot worse and now it wont rev between 1000 and 2000 rmp, as you accelerate the engine cuts to idle until you push the throttle a little more and it jumps up to 2000rpm. makes for an interesting drive through town, or on the lanes.

If you moving and keep you foot down its all good.

I have had a spare throttle position switch for a while but didnt fit it because although I know it is a good one, when I plugged it in under the bonnet it did the same thing.

Well after changing the AFM 3 times and changing the 4th injector for a known good one with no change I found someone local to plug in a diagnostic machine.

This came back with throttle position sensor so I explained my dilema but he suggested changing it anyway.

Well I have recently brought another R Reg Auto with EDC that all works fine so I checked the spare sensor on that and all is well. So I went ahead and changed my one over.

After laying on my back in the footwell and lots of swearing and cursing I changed them over and there was no difference.

As a last resort I unplugged my Air Flow meter and it accelerated through normally most times, but it still brought the check engine light on occasionally so its not the cure. I am sure it will be like the last time I unplugged it and return to cutting out within a few days.

I am at my wits end with where to try next.

All I have ended up with is an empty bank account and lots of expensive rare spare parts....

Anybody have any more suggestions that don't involve petrol and a lighter?

Instead of starting a new topic I thought I would follow on from this one. As I have the exact same problem in my 300tdi auto EDC disco. I have been looking through the repair manual and have across four sensors all called the same thing.

Either I have seen some with different engine types or out of my depth on which one i should know I have so thought I would ask here.

if you unplug the maf then it runs on a default software map; which should be good enough to keep you going.

but by having a proper maf it can adjust the mixture to what is actually happening, so better power,mpg, etc

It normally runs fine, just on low reves it coughs, splutters and becomes a kangaroo

I forgot about this post.

I did discover what the problem was after changing injectors, mat sensors and throttle switches with no joy.

I did a body swap with a good body onto my old chassis and in the process fitted a recon gearbox.

The gearbox has a sensor on the bell housing and this got changed at the same time.

When it all went together the problem had gone.

I add that to the list of things to check to, it's getting longer

I've got a spare I think. Made sure I took them off any gearbox I scrapped as I know they are rare.

I've think the part number is ERR2079 paddock spares sell them an oem one for about £12 plus postage.

Did have a quick look for it yesterday but couldn't clearly find it