Check engine light

Hi Artic2.

Cheers for the comments mate. She is getting there not how I like her yet but slowly getting there. A few on the outside, sorry for the pictures.....









Anyway....

Thats a top job on cleaning the egr there like it.
I did work on her for a short while tonight, starting taking the intercooler hoses off etc to get the inlet manifold off and I must admit noticed a little bit of oil in the turbo hoses, pipes etc and once I removed the inlet manifold etc I must say for only doing I say a less then 15 miles since I cleaned the whole inlet manifold out it was quite oily inside!!!
Anyway took the map sensor out and it was full with oily residue not like that when it went in!!!
Was starting to think the seals have gone in the turbo to cause this! So I got a old glass coffee jar put this over the metal turbo pipe before the intercooler and started her up with the inlet manifold off but with the egr delete on of course, this was to test to see how much oil was coming through the turbo pipe!

I ran her on tick over for about 5mins and revved her up a bit after so I could hear the turbo whistling I could see the pressure from the turbo was pushing the coffee jar back to the front done this quite a few times then switched her off, to my surprise there was nothing at all in the coffee jar! So where is this oil coming from? I didn't clean out the intercooler yet as its on one of my next jobs on the to do list once I remove the front bumper but maybe the intercooler is that full of oil and rubbish from over the years it's coming from here!?!
Really need to get under her and check the turbo bearings too but need her on ramps for that one, why did they put the turbo right down there!!!! Thanks BMW!!!!

Least I know why the map wasn't working it was full of oily residue!!

Unless she is breathing heavy from the crankcase breather! As I said I have done the vortex mod on the crankcase breather which made a Massive difference.

Another job on my list is the oil and filter but first I think a good flushing fluid then clean engine oil and filter in. My kenco catch tank!!!

Think I'm going to also move my vacuum line running across the top of the engine to the rear of the bulkhead. Ocd I have to much of it. Ha, ha.



Anybody else have mush oil residue in there inlet manifold can't see this being right I know you have some but this seems excessive to me. Can't really Get any good pictures of this to show you though!!

Cheers for all your help on this one.

Thanks.

Ross.

Hi Ross.
All manifolds will have some oily residue in them even though the EGR as been blocked off, what will not happen is it should not build up into thick gunk now, intercooler is worth checking if you think the oily deposit is more than it should be. I still think the check engine light is EGR related.

I have seen using an EGR bypass on the Auto can cause rupture to the connection outlined with the orange dots.
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I see also from you photo here that you have left the bolt in for the small engine cover marked with the green dot, is this because the cam cover as been punctured and if the bolt is left out when you run the engine without the engine cover it splutters oil out of that fixing point, seen that loads too.
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Where I have added the yellow dots is the injector plastic T joints I would changed those for brass ones as over time the plastic ones go brittle, then they can fail so worth the brass mod.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...164085?hash=item284d098fb5:g:QmYAAOSw7P5bMhF0

Another aside question is does your FL1 get up to temperature ok if not then you may need to do the inline stat mod, marked by the orange dots.

Do you still have the original EGR that you could clean out with an old tooth brush& some Swarfega then try that back on the car to see if the check engine light goes out.
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You can still bypass it be just adding a small piece of hose from the EGR with a solid bar / round nail cut down to about 1" into it then join the hose from the solenoid to it, this blocks off the original EGR, but even then it may still throw up the check engine light, on some it does others not?
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I have clean out ones as bad as this
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Are you going to add any side steps to your FL1 ? I added the stainless steel ones to mine when I had it.
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Hi Artic2.

Cheers for a amazing reply. Really appreciate it.

Yea I always assume some sort of oil residue in the inlet manifold but this just seems a little excessive. Though from my test with the coffee jar on the turbo pipe it proved no oil was coming from there but suppose its not quite the same though when your driving under load. Still a worthwhile test.
I think alot of the oil residue is mostly in the intercooler to be honest so will get that off next I'm sure that's fun!!!! This must of came from the breather over the years and suppose its never been out for a clean since 2005!!!

Least as you say with the Egr off it won't gunk up like it did before. It was so gunked up previously have no idea how she ran.

Yea hopefully the egr bypass doesn't rupture that pipe that would be a pain but rather that then in my inlet manifold, think I may take the chance!!

To be honest I just put the cam cover bolts in where I can when I remove bolts so I don't lose anything. Don't think it leaks out of there I thought it was dead headed inside but suppose as you say if too longer bolt is fitted it will puncture it. I will have all the covers off again as I want to reroute a vacuum line on the engine anyway

Thats funny I have those brass tees in my basket on ebay already as I maybe removing the injectors soon for a refurb definitely don't like the plastic ones!!

To be honest not really sure if she gets up to temperature fully as I've only done a short trip in her 3 times but suppose these should warm up pretty quick normally and the temperature gauge should go to the half mark, when I've had mine out a few times on test runs this week as I just fitted cruise control to her it went just over quarter so I think it may have the issue with the Thermo stat being stuck open.
I was thinking of changing the thermostat if it needs it but I hear its quite a pain is this true?
If not I may do the modification but does this cause any issues or is this all OK to do?

Yes still have the egr parts and could try this as you say but really want to keep this blocked off if I can.

Yea would quite like side steps but want to get her all running 100% first. She has full landrover service history but as you know they only do the basics really.

I have only got her as a daily drive but want her 100% as I have got a soft spot for her now. Only paid £1150 for her from a friend last September who is the parts manager at landrover Norwich.

Just been so busy with working away so had no time on her, now I don't work away anymore so I can get her all sorted quickly.
Been banned working on cars today though as its a family day before going back to work again tomorrow!! No time off for me I'm afraid.

Will upload some photos of how her inlet manifold was and a few of the interior too.

Well happy with cruise control I fitted. Got a switch fitted put it in the dash, the ecu and bracket under the drivers seat and then fitted the steering wheel controls all works a treat.

Cheers.
Ross.

The inline stat job:

@comeinhandy Thanks for all of your videos, they have been very helpful to me.

Hi Paul99.

Thank you for the link.

Cheers.

Ross.

Just watched the video above but my water pipework looks different is it because of the fuel burning heater or just modified hoses on the later fl1 TD4 engines.
Guess I will have to put it up higher in the hose.

What do you guys think?



Cheers.

Ross.

I would go out and have a look outside but is raining heavy!!! Looking at my photos I guess it's because mine is a auto for the extra pipes, these then go to the gearbox cooler.

Cheers.

Ross.

ross brown said:

I would go out and have a look outside but is raining heavy!!! Looking at my photos I guess it's because mine is a auto for the extra pipes, these then go to the gearbox cooler.

Cheers.

Ross.

Click to expand...

Hi Ross
Yes because yours is an Auto the top section for the inline sat is different but it can still be done, only worth doing though if the original is opening to early and not reaching the half way mark lets say after a 10 mile run. doing the original thermostat is an absolute nightmare of a job, you have to raise the engine, remove mounts etc. if it was leaking then of cause it would have to be done, takes at least 4 hours as opposed to 30 minutes for the inline stat.

Thanks again for the help, sorry if I have gone a little off topic but will be back to the manifold /check engine light in the next day or two.

When I took her out the other day it was about a 7 mile run but she didn't move above 1/4 ish it's was fairly mild too think it was Thursday. Anyway it was on back roads and accelerating hard in a few places but the heater never felt red hot. I might have to wait I think till I get her on the road for a proper diagnosis.

Still bought a start off ebay today . Shame I couldn't do it now as its in bits again!

See my picture, if I do this it I shall be in this Part of the pipe is that correct? With the brass stub going towards the engine flow.



Certainly looks a tight fit.

Cheers.

Ross.

ross brown said:

Thanks again for the help, sorry if I have gone a little off topic but will be back to the manifold /check engine light in the next day or two.

When I took her out the other day it was about a 7 mile run but she didn't move above 1/4 ish it's was fairly mild too think it was Thursday. Anyway it was on back roads and accelerating hard in a few places but the heater never felt red hot. I might have to wait I think till I get her on the road for a proper diagnosis.

Still bought a start off ebay today . Shame I couldn't do it now as its in bits again!

See my picture, if I do this it I shall be in this Part of the pipe is that correct? With the brass stub going towards the engine flow.



Certainly looks a tight fit.

Cheers.

Ross.

Click to expand...

Hi Ross.
Yes that is correct, remove that hose stick in a bucket of hot water to make it supple then insert the stat, you can use rubber grease if you have any, try and get the brass part level with the end of the hose.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/in-line-thermostat-mod-td4.215114/page-5

Thanks again, appreciate the tips. I don't think I have rubber grease but a little bit of normal grease should be OK I guess.

Will do this mod once I get her back on the road and test her out but I do think my thermostat is stuck, so this needs doing and much easier then changing the original thermostat!

Will get her running soon once I have completed cleaning the inlet manifold again with the map sensor.

Will let you know how I get on.

Thanks again.
Ross Brown.

No, keep away from the normal grease. It can attack the rubber of the hoses. You can get the silicone lube from Halfords, Screwfix, Eurocarparts and even sometimes Aldi or Lidl. Usually in a spray can.

Hi, sorry to just jump into this thread regarding the in-line thermostat

What sort of costs are involved to replace the original stat and what are the pros and cons if any of the mod?

Thanks

Great job BTW with the OP's FL1

ross brown said:

Just a few pictures of the old girl. I will upgrade all the intercooler and turbo hoses to blue silicone hoses plus new stainless steel clamps soon.

You can see where I moved my turbo filter next to the power steering resovoir.







Cheers.

Ross Brown.

Click to expand...

Hey.....Nice engine bay,keep it up

paul99 said:

No, keep away from the normal grease. It can attack the rubber of the hoses. You can get the silicone lube from Halfords, Screwfix, Eurocarparts and even sometimes Aldi or Lidl. Usually in a spray can.

Click to expand...

Hi paul,

Yea fair point will use silicone grease for it.

Thanks.

Ross.

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

Hi, sorry to just jump into this thread regarding the in-line thermostat

What sort of costs are involved to replace the original stat and what are the pros and cons if any of the mod?

Thanks

Great job BTW with the OP's FL1

Click to expand...

Hi Andy.

Have no idea in the costs but i dont think its alot for the part to change the original thermostat but its just the amount of work to do to change it.

Cheers.

teezee said:

Hey.....Nice engine bay,keep it up

Click to expand...

Hi Teezee.

Cheers for the comments. She is getting there slowly. Only had her 7 months but its work in progress, getting her back together today after another manifold strip down clean up etc. Once I get the new silicone turbo hoses and clamps it will look much better under there too.

Cheers.

Ross.

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

Hi, sorry to just jump into this thread regarding the in-line thermostat

What sort of costs are involved to replace the original stat and what are the pros and cons if any of the mod?

Click to expand...

£50+ for the original thermostat, and 4 to 5 hours work to replace the thing, with the chance of it failing in a year or 2.
Or 30 minutes and less than £15 to fit the R4 one in the top hose.
You do the maths.

ross brown said:

Certainly looks a tight fit.

Click to expand...

It is.
On your running issue.
I noticed that you still have the original rail sensor harness fitted. This could well be the cause of your MIL. Most of the original rail harnessed have now been replaced with the overlay harness, only yours hasn't. It might be worth fitting the overlay harness as a matter of course, even if it's not the current issue.

Also the oil in the intake comes from 2 places. Either from the turbo bearing seals (they're not completely oil tight) or the breather system, especially so if you have the cyclone type fitted. I don't like the cyclonic breather myself, so fit the cotton real type annually.

Nice engine bay by the way. Makes me think that I should do something to mine.

Hi Nodge.

Cheers for the reply. Yea I must admit I still have that fitted the original fuel pressure fuel sensor harness I do see a lot of issues come from this. Weird mine never got changed. Was it a warranty recall this??

I will change it when I remove the inlet manifold AGAIN to change all the turbo boost hoses.

Yea my turbo seems to be clean when I done my test with it when I disconnected the turbo hose into the intercooler and put a coffee jar on the end all seemed cleaned did rev her up quite a bit and held it but nothing all dry not even a splatter of oil, which is good but I guess while driving under load is completely different but it's a test at least.
OK that's interesting about the cyclone breather mod, does this cause this excessive oil in the turbo pipes then. Never heard this before ? Only good things about the cyclone mod but definitely want to hear about any bad points. Not a fan of this oil as I want the intake clean. Have been thinking about removing the breather going into the intake pipe pre turbo.
I have done this to my TD5 and its been like this now for about 13 years and never any issue just put the breather pipes in the chassis rails, nice oil vapour in the chassis pre wax oil then he, he.

I will get there with her but don't get alot of time with family and work. Slowly doing it though.
Cheers for the comments on the engine, done some more OCD cleaning yesterday, stainless steel bolts,nuts etc in places, rerouted a vacuum hose running across the engine to the back of the bulk head so it's easy to check and change in the future if it needs it.
Next job is to take off the front bumper and clean out the intercooler which I'm sure is totally full of oil and gunk!! This is going to be fun I'm sure!!

Will keep you posted with some more pictures and how I get on with restarting her and if I have anymore issues with the map sensor too.

Cheers.

Ross Brown.