cheapest way to lift my series 2a

i will have my landy tomoz and once checked and prepared and repaired for mot i was thinking of lifting her a bit as she long wheel base and don't wanna get stuck and thought she would look good lifted abit just don't wanna got to to much expense i have seen suspension 2" lift for £260 which i thought was good as its got standard on it and trying to get a bit of a smother ride as been told they are not to comfortable any other ideas to boost the power and maybe get her running better and smother than standard i do have a set of twin webbers which i was told they where off a 110 landrover but not sure they are complete any help would be great

shackle swap

Do you know how to use grammar ?


On a side note, fit parabolics if you want a bit of a lift without looking like a nob. Mine sits about 2 inches higher than standard with them fitted, then put some larger tyres on.

You don't want to be ruining a series' character with stupid mods like lifting it 5 inches plus it'll really **** with the already **** handling.


As to power, is it a V8 ? if so remove the carb restrictors as that brings the power back up to how a RRC would have been tuned if memory serves me correctly.

shackle lift, spring lift will not increase the clearance under the diff or spring plates which is where your S2 will hang up, what size tyres do u have on, assume its 7.50 as a LWB but if its on 6.0 or 205's then get larger tyres.
Twin Webers are not a Landy fitting or are you talking of a twin choke single Weber?? If you have a pair of twin Webers get them on Ebay as they are no use to you and worth a few quid.
An ACR head and SU conversion are the way to go for power if you have a 2.25, but as you are looking at chep lift options these mods may be out of your reach for the moment.

Cheers Steve

cheers all i was only thinking of about 2" and ( DR EVIL) u sarcastic Arse hole

Welcome ……. ****, learn to use punctuated grammar so it's easier for those answering questions to read

1970SERIES-2A said:

cheers all i was only thinking of about 2" and ( DR EVIL) u sarcastic Arse hole

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The Doc gave you some good advice and if you consider his remark an arse-hole level of sarcasm then you are about to hit a steep learning curve :welcome2:

blue beasty said:

The Doc gave you some good advice and if you consider his remark an arse-hole level of sarcasm then you are about to hit a steep learning curve :welcome2:

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hahaha thanks Blue



1970, wait til you meet storm99

dont think of uprating engine youd get a 2.5 petrol or tdi for same money ,tdi for economy and power 2.5 petrol for power and quietness as such as is with lr ,low compression v8 no better than 2.5 petrol and more work ,i would fit parabolics to your have probably sagged,109 best ride normally ,spend your money making it mechanically sound ,when in god nick not a bad ride even at 70mph

Sell it and buy a 110.

oxides said:

Sell it and buy a 110.

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........with a nice disposable rear cross member :mooning:

yeah think it is a 109, will find out tomorrow when she arrives. it has had a lot of work done already just a bit of welding but 1 owner since the MOD.

1970SERIES-2A said:

yeah think it is a 109, will find out tomorrow when she arrives. it has had a lot of work done already just a bit of welding but 1 owner since the MOD.

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When you send it off for an MOT after welding make sure all big welds or all are properly hidden.


The only welds visible on mine are on the area where the chassis bends upwards because I couldn't get the grinder in there easily enough to sort them out properly.
Coat it in Hammerite satin (it's the thickest Hammerite IMO) then wax oil it nice and thick to make sure its all hidden.
Use proper wax oil or its competitor like tetroseal not the cheap stuff you get and make sure its the paint on not the spray can one cos with the brush you can really slap it on nice and thick to cover up everything.

Dr_evil said:

When you send it off for an MOT after welding make sure all big welds or all are properly hidden.


The only welds visible on mine are on the area where the chassis bends upwards because I couldn't get the grinder in there easily enough to sort them out properly.
Coat it in Hammerite satin (it's the thickest Hammerite IMO) then wax oil it nice and thick to make sure its all hidden.
Use proper wax oil or its competitor like tetroseal not the cheap stuff you get and make sure its the paint on not the spray can one cos with the brush you can really slap it on nice and thick to cover up everything.

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Why on earth do you feel the need to hide a weld for an MOT?

Because mine aren't patches, they're replacement sections of angle iron that have been put into key structural points.

The face that one of them is nearly a foot long is bound to raise suspicion as to the structural integrity of the rest of the chassis, thus hiding is a better option as it removes any chance of that

why have you used angle iron is that to repair chassis ?

The side and base of art of the chassis leg was rotten so we had to chop it out and repair. Check my rebuild thread, you can see the extent of it on there

Thought that angle iron would be better than welding two pieces of flat steel together so we welded it in then attempted to blend the bottom weld into the existing seal

Are ex MOD 109's not already raised?