Cheap respray required

novicetom · Nov 21, 2012

DiscoAnt said:
That was done with with with Hexlogic pads, 3 different grades of 3m and Menzerna polishes. I didn't paint it, it was a customers car I just corrected it, it had been painted and blended to about half way down the door. You wouldn't need to go through all that to for a land rover unless you was looking for perfection. 2000 wet and dry and 3M Fast Cut plus, a cutting pad and a finishing polish or glaze on polishing pad you should be able to get most ****ty jobs looking decent. And if you really don't care 2000s and G3 with a wool pad will get it looking flat.

This was the GTR hacked up with g3 before.

It was all like that finished up like this.

If i where to do one panel at a time, e.g a door, realistically whats the smallest compressor i can get away with?

wattfield · Nov 21, 2012

DiscoAnt said:

Get yer elbows off that shiny bonnet, you'll smudge it!

DiscoAnt · Nov 21, 2012

novicetom said:
If i where to do one panel at a time, e.g a door, realistically whats the smallest compressor i can get away with?

I wouldn't know to be honest, depends on the gun, paint type you are using, ratios etc. If you take a look a guns the manufactures normally list the hp cfm and psi requirements and what paint types and ratios to use. I had a 3.0HP 50Ltr Sealey and I that was Ok for doing it panel by panel using 2k clear coats and gravity fed Clarke gun, that is about all I know I don't like maths

. I have only ever used giant compressors where there's no need to worry just set the regulator, that Sealey one and my hobby one. My 1.5 hp hobby one is useless at putting down 2k clear coats.

DiscoAnt · Nov 21, 2012

wattfield said:
Get yer elbows off that shiny bonnet, you'll smudge it!

That's the Quarter panel.

novicetom · Nov 21, 2012

DiscoAnt said:
I wouldn't know to be honest, depends on the gun, paint type you are using, ratios etc. If you take a look a guns the manufactures normally list the hp cfm and psi requirements and what paint types and ratios to use. I had a 3.0HP 50Ltr Sealey and I that was Ok for doing it panel by panel using 2k clear coats and gravity fed Clarke gun, that is about all I know I don't like maths . I have only ever used giant compressors where there's no need to worry just set the regulator, that Sealey one and my hobby one. My 1.5 hp hobby one is useless at putting down 2k clear coats.

Ok, Ignoring the maths and compressor. If i wanted to do it gunmetal grey what course of action would you advice. 800 wet and dry or red scotch bryte then etch primer for the bare metal, normal primer, then 2k paint, followed by clear coat? does that sound right?

Then the next step would be a **** load of rubbing to get the orange peal back with a 1200 wet and dry followed by rubbing compound?

This is what i've picked up on so far from what others have been saying.

DiscoAnt · Nov 21, 2012

novicetom said:
Ok, Ignoring the maths and compressor. If i wanted to do it gunmetal grey what course of action would you advice. 800 wet and dry or red scotch bryte then etch primer for the bare metal, normal primer, then 2k paint, followed by clear coat? does that sound right?

Then the next step would be a **** load of rubbing to get the orange peal back with a 1200 wet and dry followed by rubbing compound?

This is what i've picked up on so far from what others have been saying.

Pretty much what I would do, I would use 300-400s to rub down for a better key, and 2000s before Polishing, it's easier to polish out and you have more control it's less aggressive but takes a bit longer. If you are going to let the primer dry past tacky. I would flat the primer back with 800s wet before paint, sticks better and you get a smoother finish. If you are doing panel by panel you can get an additive called rocket. It will help set 2k off quicker, it is good for single panels but I found the paint goes off before you finish if you do and full car and you end with a dusty finish.

Cheap respray required

novicetom

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wattfield

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DiscoAnt

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novicetom

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