Chassis de-rusting and treating

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D

Detrious

Guest
I am looking into getting the rescue vehicle (Y-reg 110 TD5) chassis
cleaned up and treated against rust, as we, being a coastal rescue
team, end up on the beach a lot.
I was considering waxoyl, but have heard that on a chassis with rust,
it just covers it in and the rust continues to... rust (typing and
thinking...)

Anyone know of any firms that would do this sort of strip and treat in
the Newcastle upon Tyne area, as we really don't want the vehicle to
be off station for too long.

Cheers

D

tvlb.org
 
Twas Tue, 20 Jul 2004 00:37:03 +0100 when Detrious
<[email protected]> put finger to keyboard producing:

>I am looking into getting the rescue vehicle (Y-reg 110 TD5) chassis
>cleaned up and treated against rust, as we, being a coastal rescue
>team, end up on the beach a lot.
>I was considering waxoyl, but have heard that on a chassis with rust,
>it just covers it in and the rust continues to... rust (typing and
>thinking...)
>
>Anyone know of any firms that would do this sort of strip and treat in
>the Newcastle upon Tyne area, as we really don't want the vehicle to
>be off station for too long.
>
>Cheers
>
>D
>
>tvlb.org

As it's fairly new, I personally think you should talk to this guy
http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/kleentect.html



Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
--
___________________________________________________________
"To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.
www.mrnice.me.uk - www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
___________________________________________________________
 
"Detrious" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am looking into getting the rescue vehicle (Y-reg 110 TD5) chassis
> cleaned up and treated against rust, as we, being a coastal rescue
> team, end up on the beach a lot.
> I was considering waxoyl, but have heard that on a chassis with rust,
> it just covers it in and the rust continues to... rust (typing and
> thinking...)
>
> Anyone know of any firms that would do this sort of strip and treat in
> the Newcastle upon Tyne area, as we really don't want the vehicle to
> be off station for too long.
>
> Cheers
>
> D
>
> tvlb.org

I've tried all sorts of rust preventers - old chip oil, waxoyl (refined old
chip oil), plastic spray on sealants, etc. etc. I've just started using
POR15 which seems to take the lashing that sand and salt on the beach give
the underside of the hire vehicles I have.

The POR Hardnose paint has yet to be sand blasted off the first outriggers
on a Series LR. Previous attempts at covering this would see a shiny bald
piece of steel after about 50kms of driving on the beach.

Fairly easy to apply both the POR15 and the POR Hardnose paint with a brush,
plus its possible to get an adaptor to spray the inside of the chassis after
giving it a good clean out and dry.


--
http://cgi6.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAP...land4x4hire&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50


 
Roger Martin wrote:

> I've tried all sorts of rust preventers - old chip oil, waxoyl (refined old
> chip oil), plastic spray on sealants, etc. etc. I've just started using
> POR15 which seems to take the lashing that sand and salt on the beach give
> the underside of the hire vehicles I have.

POR came up on here a couple of weeks ago. Do you prep the chassis then
paint with POR 15, then overcoat with hardcoat ?

Steve
 
Why not prep apply rust eater then hammerite or similar and finally spray
old sump oil on every so often ( either 4 mnthly or ever so many excursions
into the salt environment. Basically you can't coat and forget in that kind
of atmosphere.
same as oil changes in africa, should be done very regular depending on
conditions eg every week in some places
"Detrious" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am looking into getting the rescue vehicle (Y-reg 110 TD5) chassis
> cleaned up and treated against rust, as we, being a coastal rescue
> team, end up on the beach a lot.
> I was considering waxoyl, but have heard that on a chassis with rust,
> it just covers it in and the rust continues to... rust (typing and
> thinking...)
>
> Anyone know of any firms that would do this sort of strip and treat in
> the Newcastle upon Tyne area, as we really don't want the vehicle to
> be off station for too long.
>
> Cheers
>
> D
>
> tvlb.org


 
"Steve Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Roger Martin wrote:
>
> > I've tried all sorts of rust preventers - old chip oil, waxoyl (refined
old
> > chip oil), plastic spray on sealants, etc. etc. I've just started using
> > POR15 which seems to take the lashing that sand and salt on the beach
give
> > the underside of the hire vehicles I have.
>
> POR came up on here a couple of weeks ago. Do you prep the chassis then
> paint with POR 15, then overcoat with hardcoat ?
>
> Steve

Basically I just extended the bare metal on the outriggers, gave them a wire
brushing to remove the worst, put my "mole" high presser cleaner up inside
the outrigger to get the crud out. I used a blow torch to dry the outriggers
as suggested by POR. Applied the POR15 to the surfaces I could get at and
sprayed the inside - not sure how successful that has been. I then put the
Hardnose paint on. I just wanted to see how the POR performed and so far so
good.

The "mole" is a home made attachment that screws onto a high pressure hose
and has one forward facing jet and three rear facing jets and it scurries up
inside the chassis rails getting most of the sand and mud out. First time I
used it there was a bit of rust scale as well as an amazing amount of
concrete like lumps of mud.


 
"Roger Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Steve Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Roger Martin wrote:
> >
> > > I've tried all sorts of rust preventers - old chip oil, waxoyl (refined
> old
> > > chip oil), plastic spray on sealants, etc. etc. I've just started using
> > > POR15 which seems to take the lashing that sand and salt on the beach
> give
> > > the underside of the hire vehicles I have.
> >
> > POR came up on here a couple of weeks ago. Do you prep the chassis then
> > paint with POR 15, then overcoat with hardcoat ?
> >
> > Steve
>
> Basically I just extended the bare metal on the outriggers, gave them a wire
> brushing to remove the worst, put my "mole" high presser cleaner up inside
> the outrigger to get the crud out. I used a blow torch to dry the outriggers
> as suggested by POR. Applied the POR15 to the surfaces I could get at and
> sprayed the inside - not sure how successful that has been. I then put the
> Hardnose paint on. I just wanted to see how the POR performed and so far so
> good.
>
> The "mole" is a home made attachment that screws onto a high pressure hose
> and has one forward facing jet and three rear facing jets and it scurries up
> inside the chassis rails getting most of the sand and mud out. First time I
> used it there was a bit of rust scale as well as an amazing amount of
> concrete like lumps of mud.

Care to expand on how this was made? In the days when the council
used to do these things for free*, I once had a drain blockage cleared
by a similar device which had a bullet-shaped head which sprayed steam
out of rear-facing jets and scurried up the pipe under its own
pressure. It did a brilliant job, and I've often wondered about the
feasibility of making a smaller one for chassis members etc.

Thanks

Rich

*i.e. it was paid for on the rates. Now you pay for these services
(pest control is another one), but funnily enough the rates haven't
gone down to compensate.
 
Don't bother, its like the Forth Bridge innit. :(

--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

"Detrious" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am looking into getting the rescue vehicle (Y-reg 110 TD5) chassis
> cleaned up and treated against rust, as we, being a coastal rescue
> team, end up on the beach a lot.
> I was considering waxoyl, but have heard that on a chassis with rust,
> it just covers it in and the rust continues to... rust (typing and
> thinking...)
>
> Anyone know of any firms that would do this sort of strip and treat in
> the Newcastle upon Tyne area, as we really don't want the vehicle to
> be off station for too long.
>
> Cheers
>
> D
>
> tvlb.org


 
"Richard Brookman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Roger Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > "Steve Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Roger Martin wrote:
> > >
> > > > I've tried all sorts of rust preventers - old chip oil, waxoyl
(refined
> > old
> > > > chip oil), plastic spray on sealants, etc. etc. I've just started
using
> > > > POR15 which seems to take the lashing that sand and salt on the
beach
> > give
> > > > the underside of the hire vehicles I have.
> > >
> > > POR came up on here a couple of weeks ago. Do you prep the chassis
then
> > > paint with POR 15, then overcoat with hardcoat ?
> > >
> > > Steve
> >
> > Basically I just extended the bare metal on the outriggers, gave them a
wire
> > brushing to remove the worst, put my "mole" high presser cleaner up
inside
> > the outrigger to get the crud out. I used a blow torch to dry the
outriggers
> > as suggested by POR. Applied the POR15 to the surfaces I could get at
and
> > sprayed the inside - not sure how successful that has been. I then put
the
> > Hardnose paint on. I just wanted to see how the POR performed and so far
so
> > good.
> >
> > The "mole" is a home made attachment that screws onto a high pressure
hose
> > and has one forward facing jet and three rear facing jets and it
scurries up
> > inside the chassis rails getting most of the sand and mud out. First
time I
> > used it there was a bit of rust scale as well as an amazing amount of
> > concrete like lumps of mud.
>
> Care to expand on how this was made? In the days when the council
> used to do these things for free*, I once had a drain blockage cleared
> by a similar device which had a bullet-shaped head which sprayed steam
> out of rear-facing jets and scurried up the pipe under its own
> pressure. It did a brilliant job, and I've often wondered about the
> feasibility of making a smaller one for chassis members etc.
>

15mm dia brass rod
Cut a thread on one end to suit the hose fittings - weird Chinese size not
metric or Imperial so it took some fiddling.
Drilled a blind hole the same diameter as the internal diameter of the hose
fitting.
Drilled a hole 1/2 the diameter of the jet hole in the lance supplied with
the HP washer on the top of the rod.
Filed three "flats" on the side of the brass rod so that I could drill into
the rod at an angle of about 30 degrees.

The drills are VERY thin and unless you have every thing absolutely rigid in
a vice they will break.

I used a lathe, mill, micro drill, angle vice, die set, end mill.


 
Mr.Nice. <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Twas Tue, 20 Jul 2004 00:37:03 +0100 when Detrious
> <[email protected]> put finger to keyboard producing:
>
> >I am looking into getting the rescue vehicle (Y-reg 110 TD5) chassis
> >cleaned up and treated against rust, as we, being a coastal rescue
> >team, end up on the beach a lot.
> >I was considering waxoyl, but have heard that on a chassis with rust,
> >it just covers it in and the rust continues to... rust (typing and
> >thinking...)
> >
> >Anyone know of any firms that would do this sort of strip and treat in
> >the Newcastle upon Tyne area, as we really don't want the vehicle to
> >be off station for too long.
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >D
> >
> >tvlb.org
>
> As it's fairly new, I personally think you should talk to this guy
> http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/kleentect.html
>
>
>
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Thanks very much for the recommendation Mark.

Hi Detrious,

I guess you are all volonteers right? I cannot offer to do the
vehicle free of charge because I would end up doing every mountain
rescue, St. John's Ambulance Land Rover etc in the country free of
charge :)

However, I think it is very well known that the quickest way to wreck
a Land Rover chassis is to use the Land Rover on the beach. How much
beach use does it get? I know that the KLEENtect will stand up
extremely well to this use so I am keen to do it for you. In exchange
for you agreeing to give me some honest feedback on how it performs in
the way of testimonials that I can use in my advertising - with some
pictures of it (say in a year's time) I may be able to do you some
kind of deal. You can e-mail me from my website:
www.before-n-after.co.uk

Cheers Chris Parkinson
 
Roger Martin wrote:

<snip>
>
> I used a lathe, mill, micro drill, angle vice, die set, end mill.

Wow! Cheers.

--

Rich
Tiggrr - V8 trialler
RR 4.6HSE


 
On 22 Jul 2004 04:02:42 -0700, [email protected] (Chris
Parkinson) wrote:


>
>Thanks very much for the recommendation Mark.
>
>Hi Detrious,
>
>I guess you are all volonteers right? I cannot offer to do the
>vehicle free of charge because I would end up doing every mountain
>rescue, St. John's Ambulance Land Rover etc in the country free of
>charge :)
>
>However, I think it is very well known that the quickest way to wreck
>a Land Rover chassis is to use the Land Rover on the beach. How much
>beach use does it get? I know that the KLEENtect will stand up
>extremely well to this use so I am keen to do it for you. In exchange
>for you agreeing to give me some honest feedback on how it performs in
>the way of testimonials that I can use in my advertising - with some
>pictures of it (say in a year's time) I may be able to do you some
>kind of deal. You can e-mail me from my website:
>www.before-n-after.co.uk
>
>Cheers Chris Parkinson

I will drop you a line :)

D
 
Don't bother, its like the Forth Bridge innit. :(

--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

"Detrious" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am looking into getting the rescue vehicle (Y-reg 110 TD5) chassis
> cleaned up and treated against rust, as we, being a coastal rescue
> team, end up on the beach a lot.
> I was considering waxoyl, but have heard that on a chassis with rust,
> it just covers it in and the rust continues to... rust (typing and
> thinking...)
>
> Anyone know of any firms that would do this sort of strip and treat in
> the Newcastle upon Tyne area, as we really don't want the vehicle to
> be off station for too long.
>
> Cheers
>
> D
>
> tvlb.org


 
"Roger Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Steve Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Roger Martin wrote:
> >
> > > I've tried all sorts of rust preventers - old chip oil, waxoyl (refined
> old
> > > chip oil), plastic spray on sealants, etc. etc. I've just started using
> > > POR15 which seems to take the lashing that sand and salt on the beach
> give
> > > the underside of the hire vehicles I have.
> >
> > POR came up on here a couple of weeks ago. Do you prep the chassis then
> > paint with POR 15, then overcoat with hardcoat ?
> >
> > Steve
>
> Basically I just extended the bare metal on the outriggers, gave them a wire
> brushing to remove the worst, put my "mole" high presser cleaner up inside
> the outrigger to get the crud out. I used a blow torch to dry the outriggers
> as suggested by POR. Applied the POR15 to the surfaces I could get at and
> sprayed the inside - not sure how successful that has been. I then put the
> Hardnose paint on. I just wanted to see how the POR performed and so far so
> good.
>
> The "mole" is a home made attachment that screws onto a high pressure hose
> and has one forward facing jet and three rear facing jets and it scurries up
> inside the chassis rails getting most of the sand and mud out. First time I
> used it there was a bit of rust scale as well as an amazing amount of
> concrete like lumps of mud.

Care to expand on how this was made? In the days when the council
used to do these things for free*, I once had a drain blockage cleared
by a similar device which had a bullet-shaped head which sprayed steam
out of rear-facing jets and scurried up the pipe under its own
pressure. It did a brilliant job, and I've often wondered about the
feasibility of making a smaller one for chassis members etc.

Thanks

Rich

*i.e. it was paid for on the rates. Now you pay for these services
(pest control is another one), but funnily enough the rates haven't
gone down to compensate.
 
"Richard Brookman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Roger Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > "Steve Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Roger Martin wrote:
> > >
> > > > I've tried all sorts of rust preventers - old chip oil, waxoyl
(refined
> > old
> > > > chip oil), plastic spray on sealants, etc. etc. I've just started
using
> > > > POR15 which seems to take the lashing that sand and salt on the
beach
> > give
> > > > the underside of the hire vehicles I have.
> > >
> > > POR came up on here a couple of weeks ago. Do you prep the chassis
then
> > > paint with POR 15, then overcoat with hardcoat ?
> > >
> > > Steve
> >
> > Basically I just extended the bare metal on the outriggers, gave them a
wire
> > brushing to remove the worst, put my "mole" high presser cleaner up
inside
> > the outrigger to get the crud out. I used a blow torch to dry the
outriggers
> > as suggested by POR. Applied the POR15 to the surfaces I could get at
and
> > sprayed the inside - not sure how successful that has been. I then put
the
> > Hardnose paint on. I just wanted to see how the POR performed and so far
so
> > good.
> >
> > The "mole" is a home made attachment that screws onto a high pressure
hose
> > and has one forward facing jet and three rear facing jets and it
scurries up
> > inside the chassis rails getting most of the sand and mud out. First
time I
> > used it there was a bit of rust scale as well as an amazing amount of
> > concrete like lumps of mud.
>
> Care to expand on how this was made? In the days when the council
> used to do these things for free*, I once had a drain blockage cleared
> by a similar device which had a bullet-shaped head which sprayed steam
> out of rear-facing jets and scurried up the pipe under its own
> pressure. It did a brilliant job, and I've often wondered about the
> feasibility of making a smaller one for chassis members etc.
>

15mm dia brass rod
Cut a thread on one end to suit the hose fittings - weird Chinese size not
metric or Imperial so it took some fiddling.
Drilled a blind hole the same diameter as the internal diameter of the hose
fitting.
Drilled a hole 1/2 the diameter of the jet hole in the lance supplied with
the HP washer on the top of the rod.
Filed three "flats" on the side of the brass rod so that I could drill into
the rod at an angle of about 30 degrees.

The drills are VERY thin and unless you have every thing absolutely rigid in
a vice they will break.

I used a lathe, mill, micro drill, angle vice, die set, end mill.


 
Mr.Nice. <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Twas Tue, 20 Jul 2004 00:37:03 +0100 when Detrious
> <[email protected]> put finger to keyboard producing:
>
> >I am looking into getting the rescue vehicle (Y-reg 110 TD5) chassis
> >cleaned up and treated against rust, as we, being a coastal rescue
> >team, end up on the beach a lot.
> >I was considering waxoyl, but have heard that on a chassis with rust,
> >it just covers it in and the rust continues to... rust (typing and
> >thinking...)
> >
> >Anyone know of any firms that would do this sort of strip and treat in
> >the Newcastle upon Tyne area, as we really don't want the vehicle to
> >be off station for too long.
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >D
> >
> >tvlb.org
>
> As it's fairly new, I personally think you should talk to this guy
> http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/kleentect.html
>
>
>
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Thanks very much for the recommendation Mark.

Hi Detrious,

I guess you are all volonteers right? I cannot offer to do the
vehicle free of charge because I would end up doing every mountain
rescue, St. John's Ambulance Land Rover etc in the country free of
charge :)

However, I think it is very well known that the quickest way to wreck
a Land Rover chassis is to use the Land Rover on the beach. How much
beach use does it get? I know that the KLEENtect will stand up
extremely well to this use so I am keen to do it for you. In exchange
for you agreeing to give me some honest feedback on how it performs in
the way of testimonials that I can use in my advertising - with some
pictures of it (say in a year's time) I may be able to do you some
kind of deal. You can e-mail me from my website:
www.before-n-after.co.uk

Cheers Chris Parkinson
 
Roger Martin wrote:

<snip>
>
> I used a lathe, mill, micro drill, angle vice, die set, end mill.

Wow! Cheers.

--

Rich
Tiggrr - V8 trialler
RR 4.6HSE


 
On 22 Jul 2004 04:02:42 -0700, [email protected] (Chris
Parkinson) wrote:


>
>Thanks very much for the recommendation Mark.
>
>Hi Detrious,
>
>I guess you are all volonteers right? I cannot offer to do the
>vehicle free of charge because I would end up doing every mountain
>rescue, St. John's Ambulance Land Rover etc in the country free of
>charge :)
>
>However, I think it is very well known that the quickest way to wreck
>a Land Rover chassis is to use the Land Rover on the beach. How much
>beach use does it get? I know that the KLEENtect will stand up
>extremely well to this use so I am keen to do it for you. In exchange
>for you agreeing to give me some honest feedback on how it performs in
>the way of testimonials that I can use in my advertising - with some
>pictures of it (say in a year's time) I may be able to do you some
>kind of deal. You can e-mail me from my website:
>www.before-n-after.co.uk
>
>Cheers Chris Parkinson

I will drop you a line :)

D
 
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