chainsaw

Husky on the ground still up a tree,tried and tested set up.

25degrees when your felling all day is a bit slow, yes your chain lasts all day without needing a sharpen, until you find an old nail in a tree, good angle if your shortwooding though

anybody come across those freaky one handed sthils, i find you cant buy one now unless your a tree surgeon with paperwork, we used to have them in the evo agency until they became outlawed...

I stick 30 all the way.Dont hook we teeth either and stays sharp till i hit summat or i done 10t o wood.Hit a bottle in a hole UP a tree once.......generally quite messy with glass stuck in every bare bit o skin i had.

my top handle earns me £500 a week....
the guy never asked me for me ticket either.****IN DANGEROUS SAW...

yes they are a bit funky, never worked up a tree with one most of my work was in the river with them, ice was one i allways used to get fed up with it surprising how that takes the edge off...

yep,been in the river with me saw.water will blunt it straight away.I also find that the copper wires the eletric companies put on poles dont do much for the teeth either.

Best one i found was a musket shot in an old oak tree, cutting away and all of a sudden cleaned most of the teeth off, looked in the choke of the tree couldnt see anything after i cleaned it out, changed the chain, bang hit the bugger again, such a small thing gave me a rather expensive day...

It dont take much to skim the cream off a job in saw land.Going tractor driveing in new year...

yeah never did take a lot to ruin a day in the woods, once i had a family i gave up the work in the woods, not enough money in it, what u doing on the tractors then farm or out on hire...

Farm.....
flower haulage and bulbs no doubt.I do hedgeing(cornish stone) as well so im hopeing the dude will take me on full time after first 3 months as Im good at a few things.got 3 mont to start with.Hes payin me tickets so cant say fairer than that.Will go drive for whoever after that .Many a field to tractor here as at 34 my tree climbing days are numbered.Will still scat tree tho....

good on, fingers crossed it works out for ya,, and good just before xmas to, as i think there be a fair few folk looking for work in the new year way things is going...

****eth hiteth faneth no doubt.I am ticketed to work live line trimmin so its trees or eletrick and i know which one most go for so can weather the storm.As for job change its sideways so not much different.Reeton head down fo me,cheers.

gotoneatlast said:

you can move the bar forward, which'll tighten the chain and sharpen it with the correct size file/tool, where in berks are you, my lawnmower man 'll probably sort it for a tenner knowing him.

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thanks for that i'll have to dig it outa the shed and have a look but i think the chain might be too far gone, if it's not i'll deffo look into getting it sharpened, i'm in maidenhead is that near?

rustyrangie said:

thanks for that i'll have to dig it outa the shed and have a look but i think the chain might be too far gone, if it's not i'll deffo look into getting it sharpened, i'm in maidenhead is that near?

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yeh no far,
i'm bracknell, let us know if yer need..the young lad that services 'll probably be keen to help ,he's just got himself a P38 that he gets stuck in fields, and then ends up calling garage tow trucks out to help him, so he'll probably be grateful for the contact.

that's handy to know, my workshop is in wokingham so i'm omly down the road maybe i could offset the sharpen against a recovery then

well there you go, he works by day at golf n turf in just off molly millars lane, i'll have a word.

a new chain will cost £20,dont forget to service the bar. de burr and clean out the oil ports.its a small hole tha alignhs with the oil flow port by the bar mount studs on the main body.Will cost £3 for a set o files and take 30 mins to sharpen up.you will need verniers to make sure all the teeth are the same size cos if not you will cut like a banana and jam up the saw.It aint hard.I can sharpen me saw on me lap on tea break.
Most chains have a wear line.There is also the rakers,the depth of cut is essenctal and a to deeper cut will die your motor and too shallow and you just make dust and fire.A depth gague will cost £5 but you will get a feel for it when you start cuttin.
If you buy a chain be sure NOT to get an anti kick back chain as they are for muppetts and are a cuunt to sharpen.I use a sarp OR oregon chain.

Husqvarna is the chainsaw of choice. Steer clear of Stihl, heard of oiling probs, friends one is buggered. For fire wood and logging go for one with something like a 15" or 16" bar (you can cut wood diameter 2x the bar length) and aroung 50cc should have enough omph.

i'll have to have a look the oil port then i think it's ****in out too much oil onto the chain at the mo and seeing as it's proper blunt i'm surprised the oil hasnt caught fire with the amount of smoke that comes off it