Central locking

Hello just today got a 96 2.5 dse with a central locking fault. The batteries in the key are flat so using the key in the lock it does nothing and the rear tailgate solenoid has it's rods disconnected. The solenoid does work because the locking u can hear clicking on it's own an I seen the solenoid move. Also don't know if it's related the drivers door electric window doesn't work. Help much appreciated thanks hope this thing doesn't turn out to be a lemon lol!

Even if the FOB batteries are flat, the key in the lock should work but you would need the EKA code.
First rule of P38 buying; never ever buy one with faults.

What is the eka code? There doesn't feel like much resistance when you turn the key. It was locked this morning when we picked it up.

Emergency Key Access Code, needed if the FOB does not work, take some ID and the log book to an LR dealer and they will give it to you, although it should be with the owners manual radio code etc. Sounds like you have bought a can of worms.

I'm thinking it's to do with the drivers door as the lock turns but does nothing an the window does nothing but not sure.

P38dave said:

I'm thinking it's to do with the drivers door as the lock turns but does nothing an the window does nothing but not sure.

Click to expand...

Could be. The wires sometimes break between the a post and the door where they flex, or it could be the outstation. You need to download RAVE the LR workshop manual, there is a link in the How To section.

Ok thanks very much il check the wires. Would that explain why using the key manually in the lock does nothing?

P38dave said:

Ok thanks very much il check the wires. Would that explain why using the key manually in the lock does nothing?

Click to expand...

Sounds like the lock mechanism may have failed, the links sometimes come off.

Going to have that door apart tmoz. Just tried pushing the lock plunger down on the passenger door all locks work except the drivers door. Great forum by the way glad I joined think il be needing it lol!

Think iv found the problem drivers door outstation does not click when the window or mirror adjust buttons are pressed. The crank from the back of the lock has come away. How does this attach? Is there a circlip or something?

Not the door outstation tried the one from the passenger side on the drivers side an still the same. What the hell can it be? I'm stumped!

Did you check the wiring loom as Datatek suggested? They corrode or break close to the A pillar.

Yep can't see anything multi plugs in the pillar were a little corroded sprayed with wd40 an nothing.

Should also mention interior lights don't work when you open the doors I have set them says interior lights on on the dash but still nothing. I'm thinking it's all related.

P38dave said:

Yep can't see anything multi plugs in the pillar were a little corroded sprayed with wd40 an nothing.

Click to expand...

You'd do well to investigate this further. WD40 will disperse water but is not a good electrical contact cleaner. You really want to get a multimeter and check that you've got power up to the plug/socket and then check that you're getting power out.
The interior lights are triggered by micro switches in the lock mechanism so you're possibly right that it's all connected. Just check that there are bulbs in the interior lights. The seller might have tried to camouflage the fault by removing the bulbs and they're not on the bulb failure warning system.

P38dave said:

Yep can't see anything multi plugs in the pillar were a little corroded sprayed with wd40 an nothing.

Click to expand...

When wires break, it's inside the plastic sheath and so invisible, they need to be tested with a meter.

Looks like a visit to an auto electrician then that's a bit beyond me lol! Mechanical problems I'm fine with not electrics tho. Wrong car for that I know! Does look like it's been messed with before.