Central locking - my turn

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gatvol
Full Member
Posts
41,067
Location
Westminster
Problem started today.

Driver door didn't lock correctly. Part opened on a tug so I put my backside to it to close fully.

Now on fob unlock, it unlocks but immediately locks again. I can snatch open another door to get in but the driver door won't open, even from inside. Had one warning that alarm had triggered.

Is this a symptom of superlocking or has a connection failed and something is earthing?

G~
 
When I finished looking at it earlier on I slam locked it from back door that I had left open.
Took bow-wow to shout at the foxes after dark. No red flashing. Locked from fob. Rapid flashes and centre console glow. Flashing slowed and console glow had gone when I returned.
This seems to me to be normal locked state.
I'm worried about battery drain in case I can't use the fob.
On the bright side I think that Datatek said that the lock (physical) and lock system (electrical) are separate so I suppose, at worst, once the battery is totally flat, it should open on the key - unless superlock is mechanical and a one way operation:eek:. In that case it will be physical surgery of the extreme prejudice type.

G~
 
Super lock is electrical operated, if the battery is flat, you can't unlock the superlock....

just press the lock button ONCE this will activate normal locking and not superlocking.

If it's working like it should.

Silly question but where do the cill locks go into the cill. I cant recall seeing any receiving holes.

G~
 
??? Cill locks ???

Superlocking is activated by a motor in the existing door lock, that moves a locking ball (or is it a bar) into the existing door striker to prevent it being levered open.

It is not like a 7 lever uPVC front door with multiple locking levers that engage into the frame!
 
??? Cill locks ???

Superlocking is activated by a motor in the existing door lock, that moves a locking ball (or is it a bar) into the existing door striker to prevent it being levered open.

It is not like a 7 lever uPVC front door with multiple locking levers that engage into the frame!

Thanks. That answers that one. The term 'cill' is a bit misleading.

Is this all accessible with the door card removed? There are piccies on RR/Net that suggest not, which leaves me hoping that it will be a electrical wire that has failed due to repeated flexing.

G~
 
I tried the EKA today and it works although I still get the immediate relock.

So, a cunning plan. I can snatch a back door open or the tailgate. The plan is to open the tailgate and driver's window and then dis the battery (17 seconds, thank you Wammers). I'm hoping that the driver door will then be just a mechanical lock and I can get the door card off more easily and search for overflexed wire near the hinges.

Am I missing something?

G~
 
Today disconnected battery. I could then unlock the driver door by wedging the glass and getting to the locking mechanism. The fault is still uncured but I need the car tomorrow.

Looking at Rave wiring diagram - S3 - it looks like I could sever Pink/Black, preventing the motors from doing anything. It would be the same as the motors having burnt out.

I should still be able to use the remote and then open rear rh side and lift the driver lock.

My worry is that there may be some feedback reading through the outstation that is going to disable the bloomin' thing.

Any views on this?

G~
 
Snipped the wire. Works as hoped.

I'm now convinced that it is an electrical issue and will be seeking further advice later in the month when I attempt to find the root cause.

For now I am mobile and can use the driver door.

G~
 
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