Can't shift IRD filler nut, car on ramps, difficult

Been trying to remove my IRD's filler nut to first check the level and potentially drain and change. Bloody nightmare, I'm attempting this with the the front of the vehicle on ramps and can't get in a good enough position to get my full weight into it. Any ideas or tips I might be missing?

I have been using a hex socket and tried with wrench, extended wrench and t bar but still can't get enough pressure on it, awkward position.

Use an extension bar the correct length to allow the ratchet to lever against the anti roll bar at the same time you turn the ratchet. Or use a hammer and chisel and replace the nut with a new nut.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/ird-filler-level-bolt-rounded-cant-undo-231773.html

Cheers, that's a good idea about the block of wood on the frame, will give it a go and post my results.

if you have a long bar with a good fitting hex socket you can get better leverage throgh wheel arch

Hi
Did mine last week, car up on ramps then used a 6 sided socket (so as not to round off the filler nut) and a 600mm breaker bar.

It's only a filler plug ffs with a sealing washer to boot.
No one in their right mind would even tighten a drain plug up that tight, it's not as though there is serious pressure inside !!
When you refit it, just tighten it as you would a sump plug and don't use any thread sealer (Loctite etc.)....it aint going to loosen and fall out.

it is the correct plug - not the reverse gear lock bolt?

I found the IRD filler plug can be a bastid to get oft. Even when it's tightened to the recommended 35Nm it's hard to get oft. It sits flat against the IRD (and slim copper washer) and when you undo it it suddenly snaps loose. Pic below of the IRD filler bolt.

They always seize on, every time, use a power bar, extension and hex socket, watch out though they crack off so careful you don't loose the skin off your buckles punching the floor when it cracks off.

Did mine , had the same chew , 6 sided socket , a block of wood and a mate to keep the bar/socket strait on the plug , had to replace the plug/washer , second time ive done it , and the plug was not tightened to that extream

Mine was not to bad , Used a 6 sided socket & swivel head wrench angled forward to clear chassis , A hit with plastic hammer and it came undone

Irishrover said:

It's only a filler plug ffs with a sealing washer to boot.
No one in their right mind would even tighten a drain plug up that tight, it's not as though there is serious pressure inside !!
When you refit it, just tighten it as you would a sump plug and don't use any thread sealer (Loctite etc.)....it aint going to loosen and fall out.

Click to expand...

I have only had the vehicle a month so i don't think it has ever been off. No record in the paperwork and I have all the history.

Cheers

freelance said:

if you have a long bar with a good fitting hex socket you can get better leverage throgh wheel arch

Click to expand...

I will give it a go at the weekend, cheers

Hippo said:

I found the IRD filler plug can be a bastid to get oft. Even when it's tightened to the recommended 35Nm it's hard to get oft. It sits flat against the IRD (and slim copper washer) and when you undo it it suddenly snaps loose. Pic below of the IRD filler bolt.

Click to expand...

Deffo the bolt in the photo, same as Haynes photo

Cheers

Sounds like a galvanic reaction seizing the steel bolt in the ally hole.

I take it the bolt underneath it at the bottom of the pic is the drain plug? Gonna do mine soon. What oil is recommended? What about the manual gearbox too? Anyone got pics of the plugs and oil recommendations?

Ta!

Hit the head of the bolt with a hammer. It may take a few blows, but that will break the corrosion and it will undo no problem then

austen said:

Hit the head of the bolt with a hammer. It may take a few blows, but that will break the corrosion and it will undo no problem then

Click to expand...

Thanks, got lots of good tips to try when I have a go at it soon.