Can anyone suggest an easy remedy for a stupid cock up?

Just changed the clutch on my freelander. Just about to fill the gearbox with oil when i realise i didnt have a new washer to go on the drain bung of the gearbox. Never mind i say i will just nip her up and get a new one another day and fill gearbox with oil.

After a brief test drive i realise she is dribbling a bit of oil and instead of getting a washer there and then i thought i would give the bung and extra tweek.

*crack*

Yep you've guessed it i have split the thread on my alloy gearbox and now i have a bigger leak.

I have tried to to a temp repair with PTFE tape and gasket sealer but i could do with something a bit more permanent. Does anyone have any suggestions?
I would like to avoid taking out the gearbox if i can help it but perhaps some plastic metal or what ever its called? Or maybe just find someone who can do alloy welding and weld over the bung but it seems a bit animalistic.

Anyone got any ideas?

Liquid metal !

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCTITE-C...cycle_Parts&hash=item1e6d94a2a6#ht_500wt_1128


you'll have to drain the g/box and degrease first though

helicoil would do permanent repair

Second vote for chemical metal, some numpty mechanic did the same on my sister in laws sump so I drained it, cleaned with brake cleaner and slapped some chemical metal on it. Has held up fine so far. Not a permanent fix but it'll do for a while, just keep an eye on the fluid level just incase.

yes it would, i read it like he'd split the case :doh:

chemical metal thats the one! i shall give that a go. Feel a right spoon for doing it. Mind you, lesson learnt the hard way

helicoil, inst that just effectivly widening the thread? The thread is cracked so the bung doesn't fit in it right and leaks around the side. Might have to chemical metal it. How long will it take to set?
I'm thinking drain oil, perhaps leave to drain over night. Lean the car on its side to hopefully stop any more oil leaking out. Use copious amounts of brake cleaner then put chemical metal in around the threads. Then screw bung in a few threads so i dont have to tap a new thread in and **** that up too.

I'd helicoil it. It replaces the alloy thread with a steel thread! Permanent

araldite, held a cracked block together on a series 2a 2 1/4 petrol and its still running now

with a helicoil old threads are drilled out and new thread screwed in ,it is my usual practice with stripped threads

yep James is is right, of course, it's a more permanent solution and is quite cheap to do.

hmmm....have to find somone or somewhere with a helicoil kit i suppose. Just brought that chemical metal but i will probably run out of spare oil before that gets here, and its expensive stuff!

ok i can understand the principle with stripped threads, But i dont understand how it would work with it actually being cracked? surely it doesnt matter how much alloy you remove you will always have a crack there untill you drill so wide you need a m18 bung

how big have you cracked it?

so the case is cracked

3 cracks the length of the bit that sticks out

stole this of another website, drain bung is obviously the shiney one near the bottom. you can see it goes in abit just above it. The crack is the length of where the thread would be if you get me

your first plan with liquid metal and brake clean looks only simple option till you can get it welded and rethreaded

jamesmartin said:

your first plan with liquid metal and brake clean looks only simple option till you can get it welded and rethreaded

Click to expand...

Ditto! Bodge it and scarper