Can anyone help

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:confused:JUST GOT MY FIRST LAND ROVER ON SAT ITS A 96 P REG HSE BUT NO OWENERS MANUAL ( :doh:YES I KNOW) MY QUESTION IS THIS
ON MY HEATER CONTROL PANEL I KEEP GETTING A PICTURE OF AN OPEN BOOK WITH AN ! NEXT TO IT AM I IN TROUBLE? PLEASE HELP
 
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it could be that the aircon needs a regas or blend motors gone, test both, put aircon on and run it, see how cold it goes on both sides! also from hot to cold and again from floor to window, tell us which vents work/dont work or if air con gets cold. remember its cold outside so the aircon will need to get alot colder than outdoor temp!
 
cheers mate you are a prince
will try after work tomorrow
let you know how i get on

wish i were a prince, i'd have enough money to buy a new range rover then!! mind you with the cost of repairs and fuel in the dam things i'd have to be the sultan of brunei to keep it on the road!
 
If your going for a regass, get them to fill it with nitrogen first and use it for a few days then take it back and they can tell from pressure redings if there are any leaks..if all is ok then get it gassed up. Nitrogen is a fraction of the price of R134a. The Condensers (Radiator thingy at front with two fans on behind the grille) on P38's are prone to leaking, especially in the top l.h. corner.
 
If your going for a regass, get them to fill it with nitrogen first and use it for a few days then take it back and they can tell from pressure redings if there are any leaks..if all is ok then get it gassed up. Nitrogen is a fraction of the price of R134a. The Condensers (Radiator thingy at front with two fans on behind the grille) on P38's are prone to leaking, especially in the top l.h. corner.

if the rad thing is leaking you can get a product that is like a liquid metal filler, works a treat on the little pitted holes!!
 
if the rad thing is leaking you can get a product that is like a liquid metal filler, works a treat on the little pitted holes!!

If you're talking about radweld or similar, be careful!! I've seen that stuff destroy a few engines in the past as it can block up the water pipes and stop water flowing properly :eek:
 
Radweld etc. may be ok for cooling systems (Depends on your opinion-I'm sayin nowt!) but no good for a system that contains gas..at a far higher pressure. If there is the slightest leak R134a will find it, and quick, result....£40-50 worth of gas into hyperspace or the ozone layer hole!!:eek:
 
Put the HEVAC in manual by giving the knurled knob around the AUTO button a bit of a turn, the AUTO message will disappear. Then, using the pushbuttons, go through all the distribution settings. Turn the knurled knob, do the blwers increase/decrease in speed? Next, move the temperature settings (Both sides) through their ranges gradually from LO to HI does the temperature on both sides match, and is the increase gradual and smooth.
If all these tests apeear ok, chance that it is out of gas, with aircon on,temperature set to LO and engine running, one pipe at the compressor should be freezing cold and the other hot.The compressor clutch should be clicking in and out and the drive engaged when the clutch is in. If both pipes are warm, good chance there is no gas in the system. If this is the case..do as reccomended and get nitrogen pumped in..if there is a bad leak, you should hear it.
 
99% certain you have no gas. The compressor clutch is interlocked with a pressure switch.
No gas=no clutch.
The system is sealed and usually the gas stays in for years...unless there is a leak.
Get the system checked out and post back the results.
 
If you're talking about radweld or similar, be careful!! I've seen that stuff destroy a few engines in the past as it can block up the water pipes and stop water flowing properly :eek:

i wasnt talking about rad weld, the stuff is a two tube system that you mix up like a normal filler, it says on the packet that it is designed for aircon systems and high pressure applications!!

it would be silly to use products that are not fit for purpose!
 
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