Disco 2 Can a bleed my coolant with no bleed screw ??

Hi Folks,

BIg heavy handed bugger I am! I just snapped my top hose bleed screw and did not know how the rear connected so removed the hose worried it would fall down into the water pump. I tried to remove teh broken scew and the whole fitting fell into the hose... DOH!

I have done a bodge on the hose to get the engine running, but the top hose seems to be full of air and the engine feels very hot! I ran it for a while and bled the build of air through the expansion cap, but after a few minutes the pressure builds up with air in the top hose again.

I have not raised the expansion tank up as yet, so will do this timorrow after work. But tother than just letting the air rise to the top itself, can I bleed it out any other way?

I will need to order a new top hose, but will take a week to get to me. In the meantime my bodge is holding and I am thinking I can just fit a hose joiner and perhaps make my own stronger bleed screw arrangement up. BUt in the meantime until I fabricate this, has anyone any pointers on how to get the air out?

In fact, is it even possible to get the air out with no bleed screw??

All tips and pointers much appreciated.

Cheers
Dave

I felt lazy so just went down the shed and raised the expansion tank as high as it would go on wooden blocks and ran the engine upto temp with the heater on max. The top hose gets so hot that I cant hold on to it, suppose this could be normal? But it just feels empty and mostly air, again this maybe normal?

I am now leaving the car sitting through the night with the cap off and the tank raised up. Perhaps nature will take its course? I dont know enough about this system really.

Better get myself a bleed screw arrangement made up I reckon. But still appreciate any advice please?

Thanks again

I reckon an inline water temp gauge adaptor with an 1/8" NPT blind plug would do the trick. Does anyone know if there is sufficient height clearance between the top hose and the underside of the closed bonnet?

Its dark here now and there are spiders out there...!!!

Just dont take chances you dont want a cooked engine.
can you drill it out and put bolt in with PTFE tape, next question what thread is it, umm dont know

Cheers Mark, I did drive the car but relaised it was getting hot and stopped. Did not do more than 10 km.

The hole is actually in the rubber hose, where the old style bleed screw used to be. So nothing to drill out. I have ordered up an inline joiner with 1/8NPT hole for temp sender. I will fit this in place of where the hole is, after chopping the top hose. Then just fit a blank into the thread once system is bled. The adpators have a funny shape so if there is space clearance I will just mill it down to make it more slimline.

Now that I live here in NZ parts are more diffuclt to source, or are very expensive. I order bits in from UK or make my own these days.

I will post up pictures once I fit this new work around as it may help others down the line.

Cheers

Nice hope you get it sorted soon
Yes cause its moulded into the hose
Padock motors matlock derbyshire are quiet good on price and export all over
And not much they dont have

park it down hill and take coolant cap off and try to get coolant tank as high as you can!

I bought oil pump and gasket sets recently from DLS in Matlock. Must be the same people?
Also I have bought several times from Rimmer Bros, being a previous TR owner. Both companies good to deal with and delivery times real prompt!

I lifted the tank real high...



Then left it all night and day today. Sqeezed the hose and could feel water in there, but not heaps.

This is how I had my temp bodge set up...



This held well and even when the hose expanded with trapped air it held fast and didnt leak.
Tonight I unscrewed the M8 cap screw and there was a run of coolant from the bleed hole. So I assume from reading RAVE that my system is now bled?

Looks like this currently, with the screw exposed for bleeding...


But once I ran it upto temp and checked for leaks I secured it back in place to be safe. But have left the tank high up for another night to see if it makes any difference...


I have one of these turning tomorrow...


Just need to cut out the section of top hose that is thickened for the bleed screw and then fit adaptor. I then have this little beauty sat in the shed ready to be my new bleed screw...


I will post more updates tomorrow when its fitted and tested.

Cheers

blgdave said:

Also I have bought several times from Rimmer Bros, being a previous TR owner. Both companies good to deal with and delivery times real prompt!

Click to expand...

Bigdave, would it not be more expedient to order stuff from Australia? There is a mob in Sydney called, funnily enough, TR spares, they do parts for Land Rover as well, check them out on the internet, I live further away from them than you would be, and they keep me supplied with parts for Disco D1's, I look after another for a mate as well as ours, I used to buy bits from them lots of years back when I had a TR3A I was restoring and our daily driver was a 2500TC.
I have found them heaps reliable and reasonably priced, and for you they would be closer than the UK.

I have sold my TR4 now sadly. I have found postage around Aussie to Aussie real cheap, but once it has to cross the Tasman the price goes mad! I have found delivery sometimes from UK to be cheaper. But I will certainly give them a try and see how they compare. When I order from Rimmer they seem to get he bits from UK to Auckland just as quick as from Auckland to me up North!

On the Aussie front I have used Pack & Send to move bikes about, and I heard they were branching out to Kiwiland. So maybe the prices will drop.