Cam timing

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mastersdave2

New Member
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Ok guys, back again,

i know how to do the usual timing, ie locking the fuel pump, finding TDC, locking flywheel etc, but during my engine refurbishment my brother undid the 3 10mm bolts on the Cam pulley whilst i wasnt looking, he then questioned if he should have undone them at which i shouted some obscenities at him,

engine has gone back together all ok so far, ive done the first 'break in' ie 2k revs for 20 mins, oil change, checked all bolts for torque, checked timing and adjusted valves, im now in the first 500 miles run in stage, but i have a loud 'ticking' under acceleration its not a knock, definitely valves, im now assuming my cam is out of sync with the rest of the timing,

my question is how to i time the cam, is there a locking point like the fuel pump, or can someone explain to me how to reset it

cheers
Dave
 
mark on can pulley and a fin attached to bolt hole in timing case housing 8 oclockis
ps pulley will only fit one way if you observe slot in pulley and corresponding raised part of flange
 
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ok got it to pieces now, just noticed cam seal has been fitted twisted, so gotta shoot out in a min to get a new one,

has the lug on the camshaft gotta line up with the timing mark too, that would put it in line with the 8 o clock position, if so im about 5-7 degrees out as the adjuster is locked to one end of the pulley
 
ignore me, im gonna go away red faced now, just realised there is no adjustment on cam,

can anyone shed some light on my 'ticking' sound and and running down on power?
 
The ticking might be from the injector pump which might indicate fuel starvation. This would give low power. When there is not enough fuel in the pump it will knock as there isn't enough lubrification from the oil in the diesel.

When did you last change your fuel filter? Also, is the lift pump working OK?
 
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tetsu0san said:
The ticking might be from the injector pump which might indicate fuel starvation. This would give low power. When there is not enough fuel in the pump it will knock as there isn't enough lubrification from the oil in the diesel.

When did you last change your fuel filter? Also, is the lift pump working OK?
Click to expand...


fuel filter was changed 112 miles ago, lift pump is fine, engine has just had a complete ovehaul, every seal, gasket and bearing changed, new piston rings, rebore, rehoned, new oil squirts, new oil pump, new pressure relief valve, oil pressure switch, new turbo, new clutch,

going to recheck the timing as i have timing cover off
 
started from scratch again, set crank to TDC, cam to the markings, and fuel pump to 9.5mm locating hole, cam belt on, 2 turns everything lines up, took rocker cover off, checked valve spacings, most spacings were too big, so i adjusted them to recommended settings,

got it all back together, started engine, revved it to 3k rpm, no ticking and sounded lovely, nice and smooth, let it idle for a few mins and revved it again, it was then lumpy, flat in places and my ticking is back,

its gotta be the timing slipping right?
 
If you have done the timing belt right then it is unlikely it would have slipped unless you didn't do up the bolts on the injector pump pulley. I still think it could be the injector pump with fuel starvation. Can you pinpoint the ticking to a more specific area?

Also, do you have a compressor? Try blowing back down the fuel line from the engine to the tank. You can do this with your mouth and if it is hard to blow then I would say you have a restriction or blockage. Have you looked at the sediment filter at the back? Also have a look in the tank to see if there is any crud in the bottom. I ended up putting a gauze filter in my tank on the pickup because I had a similar issue.
 
Actually, as you had to adjust your tappets, I would think that is a little odd so soon after a rebuild. Another thing to look at would be the rocker shaft. Remove the shaft to make sure it's not broken as this could be an issue too.
 
tetsu0san said:
Actually, as you had to adjust your tappets, I would think that is a little odd so soon after a rebuild. Another thing to look at would be the rocker shaft. Remove the shaft to make sure it's not broken as this could be an issue too.
Click to expand...

all fine, still got tapping when engine is getting past 1500 revs plus, reset timing that was half tooth out on cam, not made much difference, im just wondering now whether i should turn my attention to fuel side of things, fuel system at the engine end was completely drained for a few days whilst the block was over hauled, is it a possibility that i have some sort of air lock in the pump itself?
 
Fit a clear piece of pipe between filter outlet and injection pump inlet.
Then look for air bubbles in clear pipe when engine is running.
Any air seen and you need to sort where it is getting in.
When air is getting in fuel line,the injection pump sounds like an aerosol can being shaken with ball bearings in it(ticking,buzzing-low power)-once sorted takes a while for all the air to clear the injection pump ie buzzing takes awhile to stop.
 
try the sedimenter on the chassis by the osr wheel. mine clogged up making it tick like you describe. dont try the tap to drain it, remove the bolt from the top. 11mm spanner iirc.
 
do this, as already suggested



then check this if you've got the bubbles



for holes (left hand side, shows as a black dot)



then check this for hairline cracks

 
ok..... i got sediment filter off, there was some crap in it, and pressured the pipe, some crap came out of that too, refilled the system, put a clear pipe between my filter and the fuel pump, i noticed the little pipes between the injectors were damp so put some clear tubing on them too,

started it up, i have no bubbles in the pipe between the filter and the pump, however the little pipes between the injectors soon started filling up with air, not sure if this is normal or not.

still have a tapping/ticking/knocking, i got a long screwdriver out and started proding it around with it to my ear, tappets sound fine, pump, turbo, everything on fan belt all sound fine, i the checked each injector one by one, there is a distinct knocking on the second injector,

so i then swapped the 2nd injector for the 3rd one, still got a knocking on the second injector, the second injector goes back to the highest point on the fuel pump,

as far as my knowledge goes im stumped, what are the possibilities?, i might start a new tread with a more suitable title, but any help here is much appreciated
 
Air in the little pipes is fine (I think) as these are just fuel return pipes for unused fuel. They are not under pressure anyway and that should be OK.

Well, if you are sure that the tappets are OK on all cylinders then I am a little stumped now. Unless there is a blockage in the injector pump and/or injector pipes to that injector.

Did you check clearances again? Also, was this a full rebuild, top end rebuild etc? If the top was rebuilt were the valves bedded in correctly and the correct ones put into the correct seatss? I only say this as I had an engine in my old Discovery and someone had done a headgasket and put the inlet valve into the exhaust and visa versa and it hit the top of the piston. Must have made a hell of a bang when it first started up, and the engine was a ****ter after that. With what has already happened are you sure everything is in place?
 
clearances all ok, the head was refurbished a week before the block and was running ok between that and the block being done, so i think valves should be set ok,

that being said i remember my mate saying (he has been helping with build too), that when he set timing up the first time that he set it one turn out im presuming that he ment he set tdc on piston 2 instead, but only turned the engine by hand, im actually wondering if he bend a valve or 2 doing this, but i didnt think is was possible by hand, he could of turned it over with starter motor i know what hes like
 
This is getting more and more confusing. How can your mate do timing one turn out? Either you get the timing right, or you don't. Unless the crank was 180 degrees out, which is possible but you have to mess about big time to do that. The crank turns twice for every one turn of the cam and injector. If the timing was set this way then perhaps you're 180 degrees out?

You would have to be bloody strong to bend a valve by turning it by hand, unless you have a breaker bar on the pulley of course.

It sounds like 'too many cooks...' and all that.
 
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