Bypass brake change sensor?!
- Thread starter stefan063
- Start date
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 45,775
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- Near Poitiers SW France
Change the duff sensor, don't bodge it, could invalidate your insurance in the event of an accident.
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
Unless they have devised anything different. Pad wear sensor is a contact wire in pad, that earths out on disc. It is usually only on one front and one rear brake. Only way to switch it off is to unplug it or change pads.
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As I have no doubt mentioned numerous times previous....
Never scrimp, save or bodge with two systems on your car - Brakes and Steering...
These two systems above all else can save your life.....nuff said.
Never scrimp, save or bodge with two systems on your car - Brakes and Steering...
These two systems above all else can save your life.....nuff said.
I can see why your frustrated, you still have plenty of wear left on your pads, but if there's nothing wrong with the sensor, and someone hasn't knocked it putting new pads back in, then that's probably the recommended ware for them, you have to remember these things weigh a LOT and if you steaming along the motorway at 80-90 mph then you need lots of pad, they heat up as much as the disk when trying to stop you know
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,775
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
That's far too simple Tony, I believe from other posts that the sensor is a separate item that once triggered has to be replaced.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
That's far too simple Tony, I believe from other posts that the sensor is a separate item that once triggered has to be replaced.
The wire in the pad was a much simpler and cheaper option. Over complication personified.
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So as I have seen the pictures (thank's for pics) I just can remove cable from main jack and the light will go off. Also I didn't figure it are there 4 cables or only two,each on front and rear wheel?
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There is only one senser per axle....one on the front and one on the rear...
I think the way the senser works is there is a loop of wire contained in a plastic casing....as the casing wears, this exposes the wire loop which in turn then gets worn away until the loop breaks and this brings the warning light on....
So uplugging the connections will only serve for the light to remain on, it is my estimation (and this is only a guesstimate - I will have to see if it is in the ETM for the L322 - which is at home, sorry) that the system needs continuity to satisfy the warning system, so possible bridging it across *could* work, but that is just a guess....
I think the way the senser works is there is a loop of wire contained in a plastic casing....as the casing wears, this exposes the wire loop which in turn then gets worn away until the loop breaks and this brings the warning light on....
So uplugging the connections will only serve for the light to remain on, it is my estimation (and this is only a guesstimate - I will have to see if it is in the ETM for the L322 - which is at home, sorry) that the system needs continuity to satisfy the warning system, so possible bridging it across *could* work, but that is just a guess....
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Unplugging would only work for a make circuit. Not for a break circuit as you rightly say. Thing is either the sensor is damaged if there is plenty of meat as OP says or it is indeed time to change the pads. Many vehicles use the break sensors now.
