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get a landy mag, the back will be full of specalists, try em all.Adrian flux cheapest with mods or me but like you say they make it up as they go along so you cant compare quotes!
Buyers guide for classic range rovers?
- Thread starter paul_c
- Start date
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Beast o Bodmin
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tell em your gay and love your rover,thats bound to do it.
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or love them for a discount!
A bit of an update. I've been to see in the flesh 5 cars now. I have come to the conclusion that these cars seem to end up looking tattier than any other car and once into 'banger' category, it seems that maintenance and upkeep goes out the window and the poor things are simply run and run until something critical falls off. And there seems to be plenty of 'dodgy' MoTs out there too!
Out of the 5, I saw one which was actually nice enough to consider as a daily driver but I missed out on eBay and it eventually went for £970. But there doesn't seem to be much variation in price, there have been 2 'rolling disasters' go for around £700!!! (Someone's going to get a shock if they bid on it unviewed, then turn up and collect it).
Also, having looked at LPG conversions, there doesn't seem to be any no-compromise way to fit it to the Range Rover. If it has underslung tanks, they inevitibly reduce the clearance and are prone to off road damage; if they are in the boot then it really cuts into the loadspace. I know that this is part of the deal with LPG but it seems that Range Rovers don't lend themselves to a neat workaround of the issues at hand.
So I've decided to, instead of trying to replace my current car which is actually spot-on and very difficult to fault, wait a while until I can afford one as a second car, for a bit of off road fun. Then condition, loadspace and fuel isn't such an important issue.
Out of the 5, I saw one which was actually nice enough to consider as a daily driver but I missed out on eBay and it eventually went for £970. But there doesn't seem to be much variation in price, there have been 2 'rolling disasters' go for around £700!!! (Someone's going to get a shock if they bid on it unviewed, then turn up and collect it).
Also, having looked at LPG conversions, there doesn't seem to be any no-compromise way to fit it to the Range Rover. If it has underslung tanks, they inevitibly reduce the clearance and are prone to off road damage; if they are in the boot then it really cuts into the loadspace. I know that this is part of the deal with LPG but it seems that Range Rovers don't lend themselves to a neat workaround of the issues at hand.
So I've decided to, instead of trying to replace my current car which is actually spot-on and very difficult to fault, wait a while until I can afford one as a second car, for a bit of off road fun. Then condition, loadspace and fuel isn't such an important issue.
Beast o Bodmin
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torpedo tanks fit between the sill and chassi and will sort that.Get the best you can for 1275 then spend 700 or so and it will beat any other **** box for that price.ya have to do SOME work ya self....
Yeah but my current car is worth about £600, can do 0-60 in 7.3 secs, can tow the trailer (car transporter) I have quite well, and its load bay is a foot longer. Its a tricky one to beat.
The only incentive with the RR is the off road fun potential.
Maybe I should go on one of these "experience days" to see if its really my thing or not. I already to trackdays with a fast car (a different one) and its kinda nice, but I'm unsure if I'd enjoy off roading more.
The only incentive with the RR is the off road fun potential.
Maybe I should go on one of these "experience days" to see if its really my thing or not. I already to trackdays with a fast car (a different one) and its kinda nice, but I'm unsure if I'd enjoy off roading more.
Beast o Bodmin
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im under 8 secs in my range laden or not.
Beast o Bodmin
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had 3.0 hilux surf,good wagon but didnt like the driveing position and the load space was small.make nice cars tbh.
i came back from the dark side cos of cost.and,
its not a rover:brick:
i came back from the dark side cos of cost.and,
its not a rover:brick:
Well, 9 months on and approx £3000 later (£1500 on a Pajero and £1500 or so chasing my tail fixing things on it) I'm back on the market for a Range Rover (or Discovery). I bought an auto Pajero, but I had an accident in it off road (turned it on its side), but then also blew the head gasket - apparently a common-ish issue. I was stuck for a car and the same dealer did a deal on the old Pajero and sold me another (manual) one, but it was a lemon and I've been chasing my tail fixing this & that on it. The final straw is that it failed the MoT on 6 items, then I was messed around trying to obtain parts (Japanese, etc) and 3 weeks later it went back for a full MoT (not in the 10 days, so needed another full one) and it failed again on 5 different things! So over the past month and a couple of miles or so driving, it has 11 things wrong with it which would fail the MoT. To cut a long story short, this thing that Japanese cars are reliable is a myth - mine isn't!
So, I've little money but realistically, could I budget £1000 for a RRC or Disco with reasonable MoT, £300 for unexpected repairs or teething troubles, £150 for some simple off road mods and £250 for possibly replacement or off road tyres?
Anything in the local area (Wirral/Cheshire)?
So, I've little money but realistically, could I budget £1000 for a RRC or Disco with reasonable MoT, £300 for unexpected repairs or teething troubles, £150 for some simple off road mods and £250 for possibly replacement or off road tyres?
Anything in the local area (Wirral/Cheshire)?
landrover16
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Hi paul c,
Dont know if its of any use to you, but i have got a J reg RRC 3.9 V8, it hasn't got an MOT at the moment but is going in for one soon, needs a new radiator first! mechanically its sound, top tail gate could do with attention, but no major rust problems in the other normal areas, i am based in northumberland though
Dont know if its of any use to you, but i have got a J reg RRC 3.9 V8, it hasn't got an MOT at the moment but is going in for one soon, needs a new radiator first! mechanically its sound, top tail gate could do with attention, but no major rust problems in the other normal areas, i am based in northumberland though
Hiya, Northumberland is a little too far from me. I've extended the search, looking at diesels and manuals too. Am I right in thinking that a 1990/H reg range rover would have a 2.5TD diesel which is the enlargement of the 2.4TD VM diesel? And that the 200TDi only came in 1992 and onwards? Is it worth looking for a 1992 on car, or is the VM diesel just as good, better, easier/cheaper to find parts for, etc?
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If you start looking at discos, check out the difference between Mk1 & Mk2
Mk2 seems very cramped in the cockpit, have driven both as the in laws have both
Why not a P38.. similar money to a classic, especially if you buy a project 1 with blown engine or something
Mk2 seems very cramped in the cockpit, have driven both as the in laws have both
Why not a P38.. similar money to a classic, especially if you buy a project 1 with blown engine or something
Hi Paul
I bought my classic for 850 then when I took it for its first MOT she faild on rear disks,pads & calapers also on the rear body crossmember (Which fell out in three bits) and steering droparm ball joint all of which I had missed when I whent to look at her. Sills and rear body crossmember (RRC ones are cheeper than Disco ones!!) are the useual suspects for rust aswell as the iner wheel arches (As I now know lol!!!) but 300 quid later several days waiting for parts from ebay and all Easter weekend cutting and welding she was back on the road if you can do a lot of the work yourself (If not all) then they are woth buying and if you like more of a chalenge get a P38 once you have got one yourl never look back I may be little biast though as ive got one of each.
And one last point as you mentiond earlier go and look at the vehicle befor puting your hands in your pocket as there are a lot of ****s out there that will sell you crap.
Anyone out there after a series 3 as mine has got to go !!!!!
I bought my classic for 850 then when I took it for its first MOT she faild on rear disks,pads & calapers also on the rear body crossmember (Which fell out in three bits) and steering droparm ball joint all of which I had missed when I whent to look at her. Sills and rear body crossmember (RRC ones are cheeper than Disco ones!!) are the useual suspects for rust aswell as the iner wheel arches (As I now know lol!!!) but 300 quid later several days waiting for parts from ebay and all Easter weekend cutting and welding she was back on the road if you can do a lot of the work yourself (If not all) then they are woth buying and if you like more of a chalenge get a P38 once you have got one yourl never look back I may be little biast though as ive got one of each.
And one last point as you mentiond earlier go and look at the vehicle befor puting your hands in your pocket as there are a lot of ****s out there that will sell you crap.
Anyone out there after a series 3 as mine has got to go !!!!!
