busted bonnet lock

Has anyone else had a broken bonnet lock and managed to get the bonnet open without breaking anything?
I don't think the cable has snapped as it still returns when I have pulled it. I think the catch mechanism is broken, but I can't replace/fix it without being able to open the bonnet.

Hope I don't run out of screenwash this week.

I think you can get to the rear of the bonnet catch through the rad bumper grill. Enough to release the catch plate by drilling something out.

try pressing down on the bonnet with someone pulling the release lever, taking a bit of pressure off the catch sometimes helps it release.

failing that it is just about possible to get on the 2 bolts holding the catch to the bonnet by carefully pushing/wedging the plastic grille surround down away from the bonnet.

Search 'bonnet release' under this forum there are a couple of threads telling you how to open the bonnet.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/opened-bonnet-but-what-awful-design-74034.html

Thanks for the responses everyone. Have finally got it open and am going to get a new lock for it. Had to remove the release handle from inside and pull like mad on the cable with a pair of pliers after spraying an entire can of WD40 at the lock.

it will be a rusted cable, unable to pass throgh the outer, bonnet end

freelance said:

it will be a rusted cable, unable to pass throgh the outer, bonnet end

Click to expand...

Dead right, the cable was rusted and frayed, the frayed end wouldn't pass though the outer sheath.

Replaced the cable, and also the lock mechanism aswell.
I found it alot easier to knock the heads of the rivets off with a hammer and chisel instead of drilling them out. Theres not much room for a drill.
I am still bewildered as to why the folks at Haynes want you to remove the radiator, I didn't have to touch it at all.

howardo said:

the cable was rusted

Click to expand...

rust?
Freelander?

shirley not?

I am just as shocked as you are

howardo said:

I am just as shocked as you are

Click to expand...

Its a good job the doors dint fall off with all that tugging

howardo said:

Dead right, the cable was rusted and frayed, the frayed end wouldn't pass though the outer sheath.

Replaced the cable, and also the lock mechanism aswell.
I found it alot easier to knock the heads of the rivets off with a hammer and chisel instead of drilling them out. Theres not much room for a drill.
I am still bewildered as to why the folks at Haynes want you to remove the radiator, I didn't have to touch it at all.

Click to expand...

The Mad Hat Man said:

rust?
Freelander?

shirley not?

Click to expand...

howardo said:

I am just as shocked as you are

Click to expand...

Not sarcastic please. Let me tell you a little story I heard from my long deceased father-in-law. He had a bicycle shop and at these days, end '40's and in the '50's of last century, the usual scenario of a farmer (living in a place that used to be rural, unfortunately not anymore now) buying a bicycle was that he took it home, and used it to ride to his fields where he then threw the bike into a ditch until it was time again to go home, this day after day and year after year until at a certain moment something went wrong and he had to come back to my fatherinlaw's shop. So one day such a farmer came in with a bike totally rusted and unable to ride it anymore, the chain and everything was solidely rusted. My fatherinlaw checked it out and he said he wasn't surprised at all, this bike has been looked after and oiled to death he said (trying to be cynical) on which the farmer, very ignorant answered: I swear to God it's not true, I've never touched it and never put a drop of oil on it. (Looks that funny anymore when reading it through but when he told me it was funny to me, too lazy to throw all my sweat in typing this away, I'll send it anyway.)

rusty part on a freelander, could it be britpart

howardo said:

Has anyone else had a broken bonnet lock and managed to get the bonnet open without breaking anything?
I don't think the cable has snapped as it still returns when I have pulled it. I think the catch mechanism is broken, but I can't replace/fix it without being able to open the bonnet.

Hope I don't run out of screenwash this week.

Click to expand...

Chaser said:

try pressing down on the bonnet with someone pulling the release lever, taking a bit of pressure off the catch sometimes helps it release.

failing that it is just about possible to get on the 2 bolts holding the catch to the bonnet by carefully pushing/wedging the plastic grille surround down away from the bonnet.

Click to expand...

From searching elsewhere on here a 10mm ratchet spanner is ideal for taking the 2 bolts out of the catch bolted to the actual bonnet using a few wooden wedges to lift the bonnet slightly.

I've just done it in 3 minutes and I'm still buzzing.

Reserectafred time

@willo @Sirus @howardo @freelance where are you now?

Searched and found the answer.

Yep, just took the catch out and lubed it up.
Refitted for the moment as the cable hasn't actually snapped, just stretched.
New cable ordered, it will only be a 30 min job to replace cable next week.



53 reg Freelander, due for MOT. Mrs wants a Defender again. ££
I might have to keep the freelander for her to use when defender gets nicked.

The Mad Hat Man said:

Reserectafred time

@willo @Sirus @howardo @freelance where are you now?

Click to expand...

Same old **** every day !