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Bulkhead TLC Thread

Discussion in 'Series Land Rovers' started by bazanaius, Aug 14, 2017.

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  1. mistericeman

    mistericeman Active Member

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  2. Blackburn

    Blackburn Well-Known Member

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  3. cornish rattler

    cornish rattler Well-Known Member

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    I don't know what you was embarrassed about here's mine when I bought 2a all done by the p.o.
     

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  4. cornish rattler

    cornish rattler Well-Known Member

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    Saving for a new galv one now :D
     
  5. Stretch

    Stretch Well-Known Member

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    The bulge / shoulder is the point from which you need to align everything.

    If you get this bit wrong then the lines of the vehicle will look a right mess.

    Check the holes for the wings by mounting the new A post on the wings - see how far the holes are out. I reckon now is the time to make changes / hack them about before you paint.

    As for the hinge holes compare the holes on each of the A posts - they should align (if Mungo in the factory has his machine set up properly) - I have to "adjust" the lower holes for my new A posts. The point here is that ideally when you've got the "shoulders" aligned nicely and the wings are at the right height (when you look at the vehicle head on) the sticking out door hinges should also be at the same height on either side of the vehicle.

    ####

    So advice for these choices is - stand back - think ahead - look at the relative heights of the main shapes and make sure it doesn't look like a 6 year old put your Land Rover back together again

    ####

    Import thing to remember when making your plan.

    Inside the A pillar several pieces were joined together at the factory

    1) The outer front piece of the bulkhead - the bit that goes right across that holds the vents in place
    2) An inner piece that also runs the width - the inner side of the "vent panel" see (1)
    3) An upper A post piece
    4) The lower A post (the bit you've bought)
    5) A strengthener (sits behind the upper A post at the top (3))
    6) A strengthener (sits behind upper hinge holes)
    7) An inside strengthening piece (complicated to make) that sits between (4), (3), (2) and (1)

    On the outer surface the new part you've bought (4) is meant to go under / inside (1) and butt up against (3) - with part (6) in there too

    Rather difficult to get these replacement parts fitted "as factory" in my opinion if you're not going to pick the parts to bits.

    Remember the upper hinges should ideally have the thickness of 3 pieces (not 2!) - but I don't see how you can achieve that with out stripping all the bits to component parts...
     
  6. bazanaius

    bazanaius Member

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    Looking back at some of the photos posted in this thread - I like the idea of re-mounting the doors as a way of checking whether I've got enough adjustment (or if the pillar is within tolerance). That will require me to get the tub back in one piece and mounted properly though... more thinking required.
     
  7. dandd

    dandd Active Member

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    How are you getting on? Any progress to report with photos?
    Fingers crossed I might hopefully start mine to in the next couple of weeks.
     
  8. bazanaius

    bazanaius Member

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    Hello All - sorry for the lack of replies. Spent the past 2 months trying to get our house move over the line, so was hoping to do this in a nice new garage. House move doesn't look like it's happening, so now back to thinking it'll get done under a temporary marquee on the drive! Welder has been ordered, and in the mean time I've been stripping bits from the landy that will get in the way - wiring has come off (complete death trap - new one will be ordered).

    Photos to come ASAP - got a few days off in December so hopefully some progress before Christmas!
     
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