Bulkhead swap

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Webley1991

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,579
Location
London
The bulkhead on the series 3 that I bought earlier this year is quite a bit worse that I first thought.

It was sold to me with an MOT on it. The trouble is, I think it probably wasn't legit, and will need quite a bit of work to get it through this time round.

At work I have access to welding kit. My plan is to buy another bulkhead that needs some repairs and do these with it off the vehicle.

I don't know if I can afford galvanising, but once I have done these reapirs, I have considered getting the bulkhead powder coated. Has anyone done this, is it a viable option?

Also, if like me you haven't ever done a bulkhead swap before, how long should I expect it to take? To me, disconnecting and reconnecting the wiring looks like the worst part.

Thanks for any info.
 
If you get it powder coated and get a nick in it whilst fitting and water gets in you're screwed cos it'll rot out from inside the coating, just paint it with some hard wearing paint after a zinc primer

To fit…..how longs a piece of string ?
 
Dr_evil said:
If you get it powder coated and get a nick in it whilst fitting and water gets in you're screwed cos it'll rot out from inside the coating, just paint it with some hard wearing paint after a zinc primer

To fit…..how longs a piece of string ?
Click to expand...
definately agree with you on that mr evil ,did a powder coated chassis build once everything we bolted on you could here crack the coating ,i suggested paint but :)
 
I'd steer clear of powder coating personally, doesn't it chip and then allow water to creep in between the powdercoat layer and metal?

I'd go to a decent paint suppliers and get some good quality red oxide, and then paint over it with underseal, it's what I did with mine anyway.

Don't get red oxide from diy shops etc cos it is all crap! The stuff I got from my local farm supplies shop has stuck really well. It's a 'one off' local shop called Abergavenny Farm Supplies though.. so a bit far from london :dizzy:
 
It might be worth getting a couple of quotes before discounting the galvanizing option. You might be pleasantly surprised. I saw a post on one forum saying the chassis was only just over the hundred pound mark and the bulkhead it a fraction of that. I seem to remember the price goes on weight.
Malc.
 
yup done on total weight but generally with a minimum charge.... from memory I think my local McArthur plant charge something like 70pence a kilo with a minimum charge of about £40, so it worked out best value if you could get about 60KG steel. I think the galv added about 10%-15% weight to the total?

I have heard that it is worth making a steel jig to support the bulkhead during the process to help prevent it warping during the hot dipping, but depends on the care the galvaniser takes I think and how quickly it's done
 
Thanks for the replies.

Is a military Series 3 bulkhead suitable for a civilian vehicle or are they different in some way?
 
Military is the same as civilian - unless its a lightweight of course.

There are 2 types of S3 bulkhead. Difference is about 1980 and concerns the transmission tunnel. Earlier ones have a flange pointing backward like an 80in, S1 and S2/2a. Later ones it unbolts - with an additional piece bolting on to the flat face like a 90 etc. Its interchangeable - just need all the bits.
 
crashbox said:
Make a rough guess regarding the time it will take then multiply it by 50.
Click to expand...

now come on matey be fair it only takes as long as you want it to take and we both know that perfection takes time:D:D:D:D.........speshuly when weve got to rebuild an entire bulkhead from a little crumb thats left of the original :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
I picked up the bulkhead today. It is far better than what's on there but still needs some repairs.

It is a later one but I got the transmission tunnel piece with it.

Is there anywhere that sells the plasic clips that the screws go into? Obviously these would need to come out if it was going the be galvanised.
 
I was wondering today about whether to keep the vents. I have seen some bulkheads where they have been removed and had a plate welded over the openings. This seems like a good idea as they seem to be a place where the rot starts from. Has anyone here done this?
 
Webley1991 said:
I was wondering today about whether to keep the vents. I have seen some bulkheads where they have been removed and had a plate welded over the openings. This seems like a good idea as they seem to be a place where the rot starts from. Has anyone here done this?
Click to expand...
I have seen a few bulkheads and the rot is nowhere near the vents. If the vents have proper rubber seals they will be fine and a bit of air circulation is a good thing. The rot is usually on the top where the windscreen sits, the pillars and footwells. Keep the vents.:)
 
I was planning on shot blasting the bulkhead, but have read online about dipping to strip the paint and then another dip to remove rust.

Does anyone know of anywhere near to London that could do this?
 
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