Bulkhead for a Series 3 109.

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NjHall

NjHall

Member
Posts
33
Location
Cumbria
Now then, I’ve got a Military 1972 Series 3 109, with a 2 1/4 Ltr Diesel engine.

My Bulkhead Is very, very draughty... Think it’s beyond repair, or if it isn’t, I’d certainly prefer to work on a replacement then swap out to fix it!

My question is that When buying a replacement Bulkhead, would one from any series 3 fit? Or do I need something specific?

Thanks for any insight!
Cheers, Nick.
 
AFAIK all series 3 bulkheads were the same though one from a 'Stage 1 ' V8 might have minor differences. Left hand drive and right hand drive are different of course...
 
I had a 109 six pot many yrs ago that I restored and got another better bulkhead off an 88. Memory not so good now but I do remember it was different around the gearbox aperture and the floor plates were too.
I can't remember if the different aperture bit screwed off or I had to drill/cut it off to fit to the 88 one.
It was easy enough to do though.
 
Anything is possible, with time and money, but in reality you are unlikely to come across a six cyl bulkhead anyway.
 
Just a thought. I am in the middle of sorting my 88" S3 bulkhead and certainly with mine it would have been impossible to repair it completely off the vehicle and have it fit properly when I came to put it back on. Whether you fix your original or get a replacement I really think it needs putting in place first, offer the doors and everything else up and then when it's all looking good (ish) repair what needs repairing in situ using all the surrounding stuff as datums.

Replacement panels don't fit first time, chassis get repairs of different qualities over the years and change shape a bit and aluminium bits can sag. Using a jig could produce a 'perfect' bulkhead but if it doesn't match your chassis the doors might not shut. I've got a thread on here showing what i'm up to but not got many pictures of the bulkhead yet because i'm in the middle of it and too dazed and confused. @scottonthefen has a really good thread and very useful youtube video. Also try @Marmaduke. There seem to be several lock down bulk head projects on the go at the moment.

As usual with all my advice remember i'm a total novice and learning as I go. Good luck.
 
If you buy a 6 pot one by mistake, you'll not have any problem shifting it...hens teeth lol, I've just got a replacement bulkhead for my 2.6 109, its off a 2.25, theres a couple of changes to make to it due to the donkey, but I got it for easy money and it had been galvanised with the correct bracing, which is still on it, mine was well past repair panel fixing.
IMG_20200502_121822.jpg
 
As an idea so far I have had to drastically alter the new bulkhead foot before fitting. The tube where the big bolt goes through the chassis outrigger has had to be removed completely and re-positioned. I have now been able to offer up the door pillar and there are 3 places where it will need trimming and 2 where bits will need adding. If you do buy replacement panels try to get them from somewhere good like YRM. Apparently they fit better and look more like the originals.
 
Alright, I've gotten some pictures of my rot. Well, what we can see anyway! Does these spell the end for this piece of bodywork? If not, how would you go about making cuts and welds neatly right on such small bits of metalwork on the front of the vehicle?
 

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On the face of it i've seen people on here save ones that look worse. Trouble is until you get all the paint, filler and anything else that might have been put on over the years you never know what's really underneath. There does look like there's some filler. Unless it's a trick of the light. How about door pillars, the mounting feet where the big bolts go through the chassis outriggers and the footwells?
 
Yes, that's bad.

And you'll find more rot.

But recoverable. It would be best to remove the bulkhead, get it shot blasted to find all the rot.

Then cut, weld grind until good. There are repair sections for the difficult curves.

If the footwells are bad, make a jig.

Then spray zinc rich 2k epoxy, top coat with olive drab satin.
 
When you take the windscreen off it will almost certainly be bad under there. But the entire front section around the vents can be bought in one piece.
I found the piece behind the dash inside the bulkhead was difficult. I don't think anyone makes replacements for that bit and there are loads of folds so very hard to make yourself.
 
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