Bulkhead - double thickness

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boguing

boguing

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A bit sarf of Dorking
OK. So as a result of dropping the gearboxes I find myself sitting in an immobile 110 with a screwdriver, pushing holes through rust.

Top corners are perforated inside and outside, but I don't think that it's terminal.

Bit of a hole in the footwell/floor area on the nearside. Which is all weldable.

So, for the top corners, I know I could buy the repair sections, but the holes are no bigger than a few mm. My current plan is to inject a barrier of (maybe) expanding foam (carefully) to seal the double-skinned area, and then masking tape all the perforations and designed-in holes (dashboard is all stripped out), and then fill the entire void with polyester resin. Let it cure (slowly - low catalyst mix), whip off the masking tape and flat it back.

So. For those who have actually seen one of these (rocking horse doo doos) new bulkheads. Which bits are double-skinned? Am I looking at a few wine bottles of resin or beer barrels?
 
boguing said:
My current plan is to inject a barrier of (maybe) expanding foam (carefully) to seal the double-skinned area, and then masking tape all the perforations and designed-in holes (dashboard is all stripped out), and then fill the entire void with polyester resin. Let it cure (slowly - low catalyst mix), whip off the masking tape and flat it back.
Click to expand...

think i'd be more inclined to drill a few more holes to allow any water build up to drain away rather than do what your thinking which could just trap it good and proper
 
Sean said:
think i'd be more inclined to drill a few more holes to allow any water build up to drain away rather than do what your thinking which could just trap it good and proper
Click to expand...

I "think" that the history of rusting has created it's own natural drain holes in the outside footwell/floor/outrigger junctions! So at the moment, with all the carpets, insulation and flat floor panels out it is drying out.

If I can be a bit more certain of where to build some 'dams' I'd flush it through with water, then Phosphoric Acid to turn the rust into something more inert (Iron Phosphate) re-flush and then do the resin injection.

I can see that the vertical area above the foot boxes is double-skinned. But does it go lower than this? (I'm pretty sure that the 'A' post to foot box is also doubled 'longitudinally', but does this connect to the upper parts?
 
boguing said:
If I can be a bit more certain of where to build some 'dams' I'd flush it through with water, then Phosphoric Acid to turn the rust into something more inert (Iron Phosphate) re-flush and then do the resin injection.
Click to expand...

Mr Sensible wants to know ......

where are you going to get phosphoric acid thats concentrated enough to do that ?

and how do you propose to physically do it ?
 
Sean said:
Mr Sensible wants to know ......

where are you going to get phosphoric acid thats concentrated enough to do that ?

and how do you propose to physically do it ?
Click to expand...

Dear Mr Sensible,

(Actually, I thought that was me?)

I have a friend... who is responsible for a few bottles of awfully strong stuff in my workshop. Best is 5 Litres of Conc. Sulphuric. Brilliant for all sorts of cleaning. Old ceramics, oven pans, ex-wives.

Was thinking I'd waft the Phosphoric in with a squirty garden sprayer until I was empirically certain that it was 'probably' saturated.
 
boguing said:
Was thinking I'd waft the Phosphoric in with a squirty garden sprayer until I was empirically certain that it was 'probably' saturated.
Click to expand...

ah well that sounds fine, i was worried that you'd not done a proper risk assesment, dont forget to wear yer marrigolds and hold yer breath while your doing it
 
These any good tae ye bogie....
doubleskinnedbulkheadbits001.jpg


doubleskinnedbulkheadbits004.jpg


doubleskinnedbulkheadbits002.jpg


doubleskinnedbulkheadbits003.jpg
 
Mate, you must be puddled!
Have you actually thought about this - CONCENTRATED SULPHURIC ACID You will need to do this in an area with extraction equipment, wear full gimp suit with breathing apperatus, thats before you start. When the baulkhead is sufficiently "wafted" what are you going to do with the acid thats dripping out of the bottom of the baulkhead - just hose it away- why not just cut the rust out and weld new sections in, that way you will have nice new areas that will last and not areas of metal that have been cleared of rust but are a fraction of their original thickness
 
I do hope so, I work with acid and when I read that it frightened the fu*k out of me. If you were taking the **** Bog then I'm sorry, but there are stupid people about - Bog - tell me you were taking the ****
 
I agree with not using conc sulphuric - very nasty stuff. I've got conc HCl and some phophoric that I have no qualms using - HCl for eating rust, Phosphoric for cleaning and anodising ally panels.
 
Big Vic. No not puddled. I'm not planning on using Sulphuric anywhere near the Landy, there's little enough of it as it is. I only mentioned it as being part of my chemical armoury.

So, to make it clear.

I am serious, not taking the ****, and I will wear gloves and goggles, and promise to wash the drive down thoroughly before letting any pets or young children off their leashes/out of the cellar.
 
I just scraped a bulkhead and I had cut it in half giving a perfect view of all the channel sections!!!

I found that although the corners etc were rusted to hell the centre channel sections were completely rust free. I do however think its a good idea, there are quite a lot of holes for clips and wires and pipes so make sure you seal them all up properly. You could just pump it full of waxoyle, take the top hinge off and fire it along the top (behind the drain channel below the windscreen) and just generaly into the door pillars, this will seal it all up and be a lot easier to do. If you do it photo it I would like to see it. Hmmmm resin filled chassis!

Another thing you should do, and I did it to my new one, was paint the footwells inside and out with fibre glass resin, this gives the external area (which is stupidly directly behind the wheel) protection from stones and seals the whole lot. I then gave it a sand and a spray of epoxy paint.
 
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