Brakes stick "off" slightly then engage with a "pop"

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Valiante

Valiante

New Member
Posts
175
Location
Essex
Weird problem.. I replaced all my discs & pads several weeks ago and I've noticed since then that after about 30 mins of driving the pedal starts to resist my foot at the top of its travel and doesn't engage the brakes. I then have to push harder until it "pops" and then the brakes engage and work normally for a few mins. If I drive along without touching the brake pedal for a minute or so, the stuck feeling comes back and I have to stab the pedal again to get the brakes to work. If I leave the car to sit and cool down (overnight, for example) it'll drive normally again for the first 30 mins or so but then gradually the symptoms return and worsen the longer I drive it.

At first I thought maybe it was a sticky caliper but when I invesitgated the source of the "popping" sound it actually seems to eminate from under the bonnet, near the brake fluid reservoir. So, then I thought it might be down to fluid being "pushed" back up into the system which can apparently result in an overheating master-cylinder and the aforementioned symptoms, but removing some of the brake fluid just resulted in intermittent "low brake fluid" warnings and the symptoms remained (needless to say I've topped it back up again with fresh fluid).

So I'm at a bit of a loss. I'm no mechanic and have never "bled" a brake system before - but I'm thinking that might be what's needed. Wanted to get your take on it before I go down that unfamiliar road...
 
Have a look at the rangerovers.net site about clicking brake pedals. If their description fits whats happening to yours it signals impending brake failure.
 
Valiante said:
Weird problem.. I replaced all my discs & pads several weeks ago and I've noticed since then that after about 30 mins of driving the pedal starts to resist my foot at the top of its travel and doesn't engage the brakes. I then have to push harder until it "pops" and then the brakes engage and work normally for a few mins. If I drive along without touching the brake pedal for a minute or so, the stuck feeling comes back and I have to stab the pedal again to get the brakes to work. If I leave the car to sit and cool down (overnight, for example) it'll drive normally again for the first 30 mins or so but then gradually the symptoms return and worsen the longer I drive it.

At first I thought maybe it was a sticky caliper but when I invesitgated the source of the "popping" sound it actually seems to eminate from under the bonnet, near the brake fluid reservoir. So, then I thought it might be down to fluid being "pushed" back up into the system which can apparently result in an overheating master-cylinder and the aforementioned symptoms, but removing some of the brake fluid just resulted in intermittent "low brake fluid" warnings and the symptoms remained (needless to say I've topped it back up again with fresh fluid).

So I'm at a bit of a loss. I'm no mechanic and have never "bled" a brake system before - but I'm thinking that might be what's needed. Wanted to get your take on it before I go down that unfamiliar road...
Click to expand...

Modulator failure, mine the washers cracked-age related and there is a guy doing a repair kit with steel parts.

What happens is the washes crack and you risking brake failure, mine the crunch was cracked washer and burr on pin
 
Datatek said:
Have a look at the rangerovers.net site about clicking brake pedals. If their description fits whats happening to yours it signals impending brake failure.
Click to expand...
It kind of fits, but then I wouldn't describe it as a "click". It's odd, it's almost as though I have to push past something with the pedal, then as it "gives" it issues an audible wheezy "pop" from under the bonnet and the brakes work normally. Perhaps I should just bleed the brakes anyway - slightly scared of doing that though, being something of a novice. On a scale of 1-5, how would you rate the technical difficulty of the procedure? And do you absolutely need one of these "bleed tubes" RAVE mentions?
 
yes you need the tube but you can easily make one from a bit of plastic tubing and a PET drinks bottle. on a scale of 1 - 5 its a 2. not difficult or complicated but v. laborious and you need a friend to help. not a one man job. if the friend knows a little about bleeding brakes so much the better. however the most important thing is to follow the bleeding instructions in rave TO THE LETTER. Or you'll be doing it over and over again. As for your pop, I might suggest a sticking caliper guide pin. Maybe its worn or not put in correctly. Your problem occurs only after the system heats up so it seems expansion related. From what you described it doesn't seem a modulator issue but don't take my word for it.

Incidentally, more on the latter here.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/twang-81763.html
 
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