Brakes series 3 swb

Hi all

I am having big problems with bleeding my brakes, is there a certian sequence?

Just replaced the master cylinder but still have to pump the brakes to get them to work

Need to replace one slave cylinder as the bleed nipple won't undo and it's round now! hope this solves the above problem?

What's the preffered method of holding the pipe on the nipple whils't undoing the nipple, because these are not in the easiest of places are they?

Any info/help would be very grateful

Thank you

Andy

astro ash said:

Hi all

I am having big problems with bleeding my brakes, is there a certian sequence?

Just replaced the master cylinder but still have to pump the brakes to get them to work

Need to replace one slave cylinder as the bleed nipple won't undo and it's round now! hope this solves the above problem?

What's the preffered method of holding the pipe on the nipple whils't undoing the nipple, because these are not in the easiest of places are they?

Any info/help would be very grateful

Thank you

Andy

Click to expand...

did you prime the master cylinder and tap it when pedal released?
look here
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/brake-pipes-156227.html

have you got shoes adjusted as well.

wth bleeding if new master fitted bleed both pipes if dual system or 1 if single by slacking pipe then pressing pedal then tightening pipe before letting pedal up repeat till clear fluid comes out, with wheel cylinders you can slaken nipple if difficult to do with bleed pipe in place and either do same as with master or use pipe but when finished bleeding remove pipe with pedal held down and tighten nipple before pedal let up it wont suck air into system with pedal held down

Bleed farthest to nearest (RL, RR, FL, FR) and dont push the pedal down too fast - or all the way if its dual circuit. Not being able to bleed one cylinder may well explain the sponginess.

the book says one big pump then 3-4 half pumps on the single circuit.
also check that you have fitted the return springs correctly.
leading shoe to the post on the backplate ...NOT to the trailing shoe.

I needed to change my backplates to the correct side of Clyde..left one on right side etc.....while I was at it new shoes and cylinders fitted.

I read somewhere on the forums to open the bleed nipples one at a time, using a tube into jar of fluid, and let the fluid run by gravity until no more air bubbles appear in the jar.

It worked fine for me as I have a very good pedal and good brakes.

If access is a problem pop the wheels off and stick it on axle stands.

Access is a problem and I've already got all four wheels off and it's on stands!
The front wheel bleed nipples are so close to the bolts below the swivel hubs that I have no idea how I am going to get a tube on them. Any tricks to that?
Will be bleeding brakes this weekend. After reading all about it on various posts here I am expecting trouble...

What brakes do you have fitted? the bleed nipple at the front should be at the side or top of the backplate, depending on age

Just yesterday I bled my clutch with a syringe. Take syringe and piece of clear tube to connect bleed nipple and syringe.
Fill with brake fluid and push it into the system from the brake cylinder thus filling the system
OR
"pump" with the syringe from below: attach syringe (fully pushed in/empty) to bleed nipple, be sure that no air gets back into the system (hold syringe with pushrod up, outlet down). Then open bleed nipple and slowly pump in and out. make sure that the reservoir is open and doesnt run low or runs over.

Works a treat for brakes and clutch, only problem is the small reservoir on the clutch cyl and finding a big enough syringe for the brakes...


PS: That way you can bleed any system by yourself without someone pushing the pedal!

Worth getting an Eezibleed in my view, had a nightmare trying to bleed clutch until I bought one, made it easy.

Spyderman said:

Worth getting an Eezibleed in my view, had a nightmare trying to bleed clutch until I bought one, made it easy.

Click to expand...

Syringes are cheaper!

Sorry for the late reply bloody work keeps getting in the way!

Replaced the dodgy wheel cylinder,drivers rear, and also replaced bleed nipples as i went around bleeding. Got loads of air out of the passengers rear wheel and still nothing:doh:.i still have to pump the pedal to get it to work but if i leave the pedal a few seconds there is nothing there till i pump it again.

The method i am using is two man my mate pushes down with nipple open then lifts up with nipple closed.

Any more tips/info as my MOT is due in a few weeks and i still have the hand brake to sort yet but that will be another thread.

Thanks for the replys now i have finished working away from home i might get some time to sort it

Andy

check reservoir for splashing while someone pumps brakes shows master cylinders on way out

Sorry master cylinder is brand new 3 weeks old and has never been on the road yet!

But thanks

doesnt matter if its new or not you have to check all possibilities ,if brakes take 2 pumps either to bigger gap between shoes and drum or air in system ,flexi ballooning or poor fluid,new parts can often fail straight away

I've adjusted shoes to nearly 'binding' new brake fluid and the flexi's are stainless steel braided about 12months old so there must be air in the system somewhere!

Thanks for the suggestions

Andy

I have always bled my brakes with a Halfords 'tight git' bleeding kit for 'one man' use....it is just a tube with a one-way valve on the end. You attach to the nipple, open the nipple and just push the brake pedal a few times....it has ALWAYS worked. What is the benefit over that piece of kit (costs about 8 quid) of Ezibleed and suction pumps etc that cost £££££ more?

I always let about 100ml of fresh brake fluid to flow through before shutting off the nipple to be certain all the air and crap fluid is out.

Got myself one of those 'tight git' bleeding kit (thanks gingerpuss) aand it works a treat got rid of all the air but still no brakes....it's doing my head in now!

Could the servo be at fault and if so how could i check it? also there is a safety valve could this be stuck/knackered as the wires have been cut off ( by others)?

Any help would be grateful it is pi..ing me off now


Thanks

Andy

Everything is sorted!

The rear brake drums were not much good and someone had put all the springs on wrong.
New drums and springs voila it will now stop on a tuppence.....sort of

Hand brake next!!

Thanks for the replys


Andy