Brake Caliper Seals, whats the knack with the metal retainer!

Hi guys, new to this posting stuff so bare with me.

Replacing the front brake caliper seals and refitting with new pistons aswell.

After a few hours of cleaning and scrubbing all was ready to rebuild but here is where the trouble starts.

Fitted the new seals and piston and then went so fit the steel retaining ring (if thats what you call it) but is not playing the game!

After F ing and blinding I have walked away defeated having bent two of the clips and put a screwdriver through my hand (Ouch!)

So im asking, hows it done.... is there a special tool or is it a pig of a job.

If it is a pig of a job, then is there a certain make to buy that fit better. Are the aftermarket ones s**te?

I have been there with my old RR, well pleased with myself until it came to the rings. In the end I left the rings off and drove 1000s of miles like that.

Nice to know how to fit them though.

Holy Thread resurrection

I bought OEM from a supplier. They come in a box with allmakes written on it. been there and done that but thought I would give it a go

verdict is that the metal retaining rings are a thou or 2 too big. they simply do not fit. bent 5 now on one friggin piston.

Salvaged original metal rings from the calliper not only fit but do the job also

Next steps suppier is getting the kits back with bent rings and all and I am going to hunt down the AP original spec kits

sussed it.

posted here for completeness so when the next poor bugger comes along etc etc

Firstly dont buy **** pattern repair kits, even reputables sell them!

I managed to get a 25% success rate doing the following, yes that is 3 metal retaining rings wasted, Up until that point I was in the 100% failure camp

• Dont fit the piston into the calliper
• Access is better if the calliper is split
• Fit the main seal
• Fit the dust seal to the metal ring and line it up, you will find that 3/4 fits a treat
• using a flat blade screw driver run it flush with the calliper face and against the exposed part of the ring, apply pressure towards the centre of the ring to encourage the lip to get bast the caliper casting
• Use the screwdriver handle to bounce off the metal ring working it from the edges. I found even a rubber mallet was too much and once the ring starts to deform you is ****ed
• If it doesnt move easily repeat with the flat blade against the exposed outside edge of the ring
• When the ring starts to shift you will be able to tap it home using the a few well aimed taps from the screwdriver handle

I also bought a BIGGRED caliper repair kit and have 100% SUCCESS rate using the above method. Their retaining rings are just around 5/100 mm smaller in diameter than the all makes pattern parts

Failing that reuse the old metal ring with a new dust seal

as you say pattern ones dont fit most often ,when we used to recondition lr calipers the steel ring and rubber seal were carefully centered then using a round ali disc fitted with one hit

Put the seal in the metal ring, then fit it over the piston. Insert piston and then use a suitably sized flat washer over piston and press to push piston and seal into place.

I lightly filed the sharp leading edge of of each ring to stop the initial binding, then pushed them home with a g clamp and a piece of wood. The key is being able to apply the force across the whole ring (hence the wood), so it doesn't bend. Very satisfying and reassuring as they pop home.

This all happened after at least three bent rings and much sweary time and spanner chucking.

I like the sound of Wammers method ^ above ^, wish I'd thought of that at the time!

wammers said:

Put the seal in the metal ring, then fit it over the piston. Insert piston and then use a suitably sized flat washer over piston and press to push piston and seal into place.

Click to expand...

That's similar to my method, fit the seal, fit the piston, put the dust seal in the metal ring, slide ring and seal over piston and press it home using a G clamp and a piece of flat plate.

Top tip #1 Use genuine LR parts.

Top tip #2 Use plenty of brake fluid to lube' everything during assembly.

waldershelf said:

That's similar to my method, fit the seal, fit the piston, put the dust seal in the metal ring, slide ring and seal over piston and press it home using a G clamp and a piece of flat plate.

Top tip #1 Use genuine LR parts.

Top tip #2 Use plenty of brake fluid to lube' everything during assembly.

Click to expand...

I prefer red rubber grease. Not as messy.

split caliper

piece of wood

record number 5.

Bought aftermarket stainless pistons - chucked the seal kit they came with and bought a set of genuine seals. 100% success rate.

wammers said:

I prefer red rubber grease. Not as messy.

Click to expand...

So do I, have you tried buying any recently? I needed some to do my calipers as the old tin that I've had for years had sort of dried out and gone manky, couldn't get any anywhere.

waldershelf said:

So do I, have you tried buying any recently? I needed some to do my calipers as the old tin that I've had for years had sort of dried out and gone manky, couldn't get any anywhere.

Click to expand...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-R...862251?hash=item2586c539ab:g:i9MAAOxyBotTa7Cl

wammers said:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-R...862251?hash=item2586c539ab:g:i9MAAOxyBotTa7Cl

Click to expand...

Just ordered a 18+18 red + copper bundle for the take-everywhere toolbag. Not a huge amount, but handy and/or dandy.

Is this thread for the P38 or L322 please ?

holidaychicken said:

Is this thread for the P38 or L322 please ?

Click to expand...

Applicable to both.

there's a vid on youtube, of a chap putting one part of the caliper in the oven at 60c, and another part in the freezer (in a plastic bag)

julianf said:

there's a vid on youtube, of a chap putting one part of the caliper in the oven at 60c, and another part in the freezer (in a plastic bag)

Click to expand...

No need to do that. If the piston is in good condition or new and is in any way tight in the bore (without seals) then you need to use a hone to clean the bore.

wammers said:

Applicable to both.

Click to expand...

Thank you Sir