Freelander 1 Bottom ball joint boot disintegrated 10 months old

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andyfreelandy

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member
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Location
Devon
Having finished the work on my 2002 TD4, rebuilding rear end and suspension. I thought I'd give the rest of it a visual before taking it off the ramp.
Shock, horror, one side bottom ball joint on the front wishbone has shreaded. Only fitted last April.

Comapny offers a 2 year Warranty and having seen the photo will replace it but what a pain!!

Anyone fitted poly boots? Anyone know the size?? I think for the work involved in changing the wishbone it is worth upgrading.
Anyone else had very short lived rubber boots?
My bloody wellies didn't last long either!!!

See photo
IMG_20210113_134148.jpg
 
andyfreelandy said:
Anyone fitted poly boots? Anyone know the size?? I think for the work involved in changing the wishbone it is worth upgrading.
Click to expand...
Yes, although on my D3.
No idea on FL1 size, but easy enough to measure with a digital caliper. ;)
andyfreelandy said:
Anyone else had very short lived rubber boots?
Click to expand...
Yes. I've had track rods and drop link boots fail in a similar time.
Cheap rubber boots seem to disintegrate in months, rather than years now.
 
Yes I can measure it, probs easier when it is off, or I receive the replacement.

Didn't expect to be redoing this within 9 months. It's continuous due to poor part quality. You don't get reimbursed for the hour or so to change the damn thing!!

I remember rubber parts for the MG were always naff. Seems like we can't make rubber compounds that last any more. Doesn't seem rocket science!!
 
Hi Andyfreelandy:
I have both front ball joints. My nexth project it was going to be changing the ball joints or the complete arms. is it worth just putting on the boots? my kneecaps don't make noise. If you see it possible, can you please add photos of the work and where buy? Thank you!!!!
 
I have changed just the ball joint but it is a lot of work drilling out hard rivets.

The whole arm makes sense as if the boot has gone the joint will be worn even if not knocking.

I am buying the whole arm and upgrading the boots to polyurethane as they hopefully will last longer than 10 months!

I will post the link.
 
andyfreelandy said:
I have changed just the ball joint but it is a lot of work drilling out hard rivets.

The whole arm makes sense as if the boot has gone the joint will be worn even if not knocking.

I am buying the whole arm and upgrading the boots to polyurethane as they hopefully will last longer than 10 months!

I will post the link.
Click to expand...
Ok. Thanks. I floow this threat with interest.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Didn't expect to be redoing this within 9 months. It's continuous due to poor part quality. You don't get reimbursed for the hour or so to change the damn thing!!
Click to expand...

I've suffered with this same issue for years now. :(

It's crazy that original ball joint boots last over a decade, but replacements don't even manage to last until the MOT.
Although the supplier might replace them, as you say it's the wasted time, and return postage which is the killer.
I used poly on my D3, after the drop link boots I fitted, didn't make it till the following MOT. The poly were fit n forget, which is what I was hoping, and so were worth the little extra cost at the time. Next time I replace a ball joint, I'm going to fit poly from the start, which safes having to go back in a few months to do it again. :)
 
Yes agreed.
I measured the boots in the retaining ring and have a supplier hunting for them.

Will list part number if they come good.
 
Chat with a few suppliers.
Unfortunately my vernier let me down!!!

It is measuring then changing number whilst holding it still. I didn't notice the first time so now have wrong size boots!!

Have replaced it with a plastic rubber one for now to preserve the joint.

Managed to loosen, drop the arm and change the boot without taking the arm off.

Size is 17mm top, 32.5mm bottom and needs to be 27mm + deep.
If anyone locates poly ones please let me know.
 
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