boost leak

hi guys got a bit of a problem which is driving me mad, i fitted a boost pin on my 91 110 300 tdi and it made no difference what so ever, i was after more low down grunt. and last week had a new clutch fitted and have now got a loud whistling and more loss off power, there seems to be plenty of boost when you hold the pipes so could it be inter cooler but if so which is the best way to check. also when you floor it it kicks out a lot of black smoke which it never did before, is there any body really good with pumps near Rotherham willing to have a look.
much appreciated Mick

Check your hoses / pipes for splits and leakage ?

Boost pins will not give you low down grunt as you put it. They only work on boost. To get more low down power increase the overall fuel with the adjuster on the pump. Screw in until you get around 1500 RPM then adjust the idle back to normal. But don't do it with a turbo leak or the daft boost pin in or it will smoke like a WWII destroyer.

wammers said:

Boost pins will not give you low down grunt as you put it. They only work on boost. To get more low down power increase the overall fuel with the adjuster on the pump. Screw in until you get around 1500 RPM then adjust the idle back to normal. But don't do it with a turbo leak or the daft boost pin in or it will smoke like a WWII destroyer.

Click to expand...

Best to describe said fuel adjuster, as the vehicle is obviously not running to it's optimum at present

Dragonwalker said:

Best to describe said fuel adjuster, as the vehicle is obviously not running to it's optimum at present

Click to expand...

Quantity adjuster on back of pump usually has the 13 mm lock nut covered by a plastic anti tamper sleeve. Remove anti tamper back off nut a little holding adjuster with a screw driver. Then screw in until you get 1500 RPM and lock nut adjust idle back to standard. You may get a little smoke on full chat. That will give extra low down power before boost takes over. But it's a waste of time doing it if he has the boost pin in and a turbo leak. Boost pins need to be adjusted properly if you don't want to knacker the engine.

Boost pins are meant to work with an injector pump set up as it left the factory otherwise you get black smoke. Someone has messed about with the fuelling on your pump. The way to get it back to factory is a trial an error of little adjustments then test then adjust etc.

I think the boost pins are great bits of kit for what they are. The engine just never wants to stop pulling the vehicle.

The other option for low down grunt is a variable geometry turbo but very pricey.
As for the boost leak/ whistling check all pipe work between turbo and air intake manifold, might be worth replacing all the jubilee clips if you want to be sure they definitely are getting a nice seal. Remove inter cooler and clean it, two reasons, one is you may unlock a bit of power and two you might find the inter cooler has a leak and that's where boost is escaping.

Reading back at your post the black smoke may not be injector pump timing issues but more so because the added boost that should go with the added fuel isn't reaching the intake manifold so you're getting a lot of incomplete combustion.

Whilst you're at the turbo you might as well check it for play on the shaft. Excessive wear can cause whistling.

hey up and thank you for all your replies , when i fitted the boost pin i was told by someone that it looked like the pump had never been touched as i had read that it had to be factory set for the pin to work, i remember now when i took the top off the pump the dot was at 1 oclock when stood looking at the pump from the wing (hope that makes sense ). as for the hoses i replaced all hoses a week before clutch fitting with silicone ones, i checked all joints yesterday even sprayed soapy water at all joints and front of intercooler, and cant see any leak, i have checked the turbo for play and there is none. the reason i wanted low down grunt is because it seems very flat and when im off road ( which is not a lot ) but when i am im on rolling slippy hills very muddy, and i feel i have to rev the knackers off the landy to get it rolling, its as though the landy weighs 5 tonne. hope that all makes sense and some one can help.
regards mick

Might want to also check the small pipes between wastegate and turbo and the one from the turbo to fuel pump for holes. If you say it doesn't want to move could someone have fitted a discovery transferbox and the gear ratios are now quite high??

They do also say if you experience black smoke with the boost pins to file down the plastic washer you remove and fit it. I've never had to do this

gcleanmick said:

hey up and thank you for all your replies , when i fitted the boost pin i was told by someone that it looked like the pump had never been touched as i had read that it had to be factory set for the pin to work, i remember now when i took the top off the pump the dot was at 1 oclock when stood looking at the pump from the wing (hope that makes sense ). as for the hoses i replaced all hoses a week before clutch fitting with silicone ones, i checked all joints yesterday even sprayed soapy water at all joints and front of intercooler, and cant see any leak, i have checked the turbo for play and there is none. the reason i wanted low down grunt is because it seems very flat and when im off road ( which is not a lot ) but when i am im on rolling slippy hills very muddy, and i feel i have to rev the knackers off the landy to get it rolling, its as though the landy weighs 5 tonne. hope that all makes sense and some one can help.
regards mick

Click to expand...

Are you sure it's not clutch slip or brake drag making it 'sluggish' ?

Deary deary me.

no clutch slip and brand new brakes all round free wheels good. people that have drove it say it drives lovely but flat at bottom end .
regards mick

gcleanmick said:

no clutch slip and brand new brakes all round free wheels good. people that have drove it say it drives lovely but flat at bottom end .
regards mick

Click to expand...

Fitting a boost pin won't improve bottom end. They only work with boost.

wammers said:

Fitting a boost pin won't improve bottom end. They only work with boost.

Click to expand...

There's a clue there somewhere

blue beasty said:

There's a clue there somewhere

Click to expand...

I do rather think that some seem to totally miss that point BB.

Yes me I'm missing the point yes it has got disco transfer box apparently ( I'm new to landys as you can guess ) I just want to do the best I can with it I travel 160 mile round trip in shooting season 5 days a week with the dogs. But I just found it quite gutless when off road in mud that's all. To top it off I couldn't get up a slippy hill field on the last day and was passed by a disco with road tyres on where I was stuck so you can see why I want to get it right because I love the bloody thing

A 110 is just too heavy with a disco transfer box I've driven two with it done and unless you do motorway miles all the time it makes it horrible to drive especially if the Tdi isn't up to shape. Which would explain why you say it's only low down when off boost it feels very sluggish.

It depends on the setup. I put a 1.2 disco t.box in my 110 and it's fine but mine has the lower ratio military 1st and 2nd gears. I usually set off on 1st now, sometimes 2nd. With my old 1.6 t.box, I used to always set off in 2nd always. Even uphill.

I can certainly see that the tall gears would not suit all. Especially if towing. 8 also tweaked my pump at the same time and it made a big difference to the boost.

If you play with something without thought what can you expect. Higher overall gear ratios, larger tyres again raising gear ratios, it's not bloody rocket science that the engine will struggle.

Low down grunt or pre boost is the cap on top of the fip, 13mm lock nut and a t25 I believe. Some say 2 and a half turns clockwise then tighten the lock nut back up. I adjusted a friends standard engine a few weeks ago and we went in 2 turns. Standard pin was turned 6 degrees from standard position, the little dot at 1 o clock and be anywhere as it's only a dot on a big flat washer... Pretty easy to see where standard position is by looking at your old pin and see where the groove from the fuel adjuster has been rubbing. Then there is also the star wheel at the bottom which I don't really bother with.

I have a boost pin on mine and it smokes like hell on full throttle and I belive it's because my pump was messed with before I had the engine and it's overfueling on full boost or not getting enough oxygen to burn. I fitted a boost gauge and I only get 0.5bar, which is less than it should have standard.