blown up p38

hi, i have recently got an N reg p38 4.0 v8 manual with a knakered engine ( two holes in the block)
i was thinking of engines to put in it really and has i dont know a great deal about range rovers so i thought a few of u might do. so here goes...
i was thinking of getting a carbed 3.5 from a classic to put in it but im unsure if these will bolt right up to the mounts, gearbox,manifolds ect.
also, i know of a few injected v8s aswel, would these simply bolt in and go or is the mapping for the ecu all different?

any help woudld be fab, thanks . matt

will fail mot as not efi and not cat,

you'd be better sourcing a replacement engine block and salvaging as much of the original as possible!

if youre considering getting a block top hat linered then i have two that are good for exchange purposes/reworking. liners slipped on one and rings gone on other one.

Rebuild it into a short block would be my advise.

there is a low milage engine in for sale sec going cheep and no its not mine:

thanks for the replies, i forgot to mention the truck is a bit of a shed and i planned using it for offroad use only so m.o.t etc wouldnt be an issue but i can see your point from that view.
all the ancillaries are fine aswel so i will take them off etc, but would they swap across to an older v8 out a classic? . matt

the crank nose is a different legnth and cam is different too, theres no holes for nock sensors and crank sensors on olders v8's.

if its just for off road do you need all the electrics. would it be worth putting any engine in that fits the box and spending money on a ecu box for it. that way the engine can be reused when the chassis is knackered.

i assume you can wire up windows and doors and gearbox without all the computery ****e!

in anycase you'd be better moving the becm from under the drivers seat if you plan on getting your feet wet!

nope i wouldnt need any electrics, aslong as it moves itl be ok! and yeh that does seem the best option just get an engine to suite the box, in terms of engines then, being the easiest and cheapest to fit in, do u think a v8 would be the way? and put it on carbs, that way i could do away with alot of the ****e wiring, i was looking at it abit more 2day and wondered it the inlet manifold and injection system would unbolt and bolt onto another v8, that way would i wouldnt have 2 mess about with too much wiring, or is this not possible.

thanks.

you need to establish which block you will use, the stuff i mentioned above is the determining factor.

easiest route is replacement block.

next is older v8 and change the ignition side, if you have a donor vehicle just use that wiring, and lastly is different engine/wiring.

it's gonna be easier and cheaper in the long run to get a block top hatted and re built. that way the engine will be woth a bit if you decide to get rid. theres no hassle with electrics and the box will slot straight on.

gavbriggs said:

you need to establish which block you will use, the stuff i mentioned above is the determining factor.

easiest route is replacement block.

next is older v8 and change the ignition side, if you have a donor vehicle just use that wiring, and lastly is different engine/wiring.

it's gonna be easier and cheaper in the long run to get a block top hatted and re built. that way the engine will be woth a bit if you decide to get rid. theres no hassle with electrics and the box will slot straight on.

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stop trying to flog him one of your old blocks gav.:behindsofa::bolt:

yeh a block would be cheaper yeh, but surely if there to soddin gert holes in the block the rods and so on will be completely f**ked?

thanks

sideways.or.nothing said:

yeh a block would be cheaper yeh, but surely if there to soddin gert holes in the block the rods and so on will be completely f**ked?

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Thats why I said "get a short block and build into that".

I wouldn't fear electronics, they just need water proofing.....yes it can be done; just depends on how much work you want to put it. Carbs do not make a V8 complete imprevious to water, it's more about the ignition side of things that needs looking out to.

ok i see, by short block u mean an older engine im guessing?
and ill put the work in if it will keep cost down.
thanks

if you top hat liner a cheap used/u/s block then you can have it bored to standard and just get new rings and bearings, assuming all pistons are in good order.

use the current heads, front cover of engine and replace timing chain and oil pump and water pump.

this will keep it as cheap as possible and give you something to do over the winter!!!

sideways.or.nothing said:

ok i see, by short block u mean an older engine im guessing?

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No, a short block is a block with pistons and crank already in it. You add the rest. So you could go and get a 4.0 short block and rebuild your engine using all the other bits that are still serviceable.

yeh, that sounds a bit more like it, the heads and everything else is ok as far as i know so this could be re-used im hoping. so ill keep my eyes open for a short block, or just a block on its own and buy the rest seperate, ill see what turns up at what money!

thanks for having the time.