Bleed'n Brakes !

Had a sticky brake, i.e. a sticky (front) caliper. Took the wheels off and started to undo the brake lines. First the off-side ones, then the near-side ones. The brake pipes were recently re-done (not by me, is still a bit out of my league yet) Then I struggled to undo one of the near-side fittings on the caliper. The spanner started to slip. This line hadn't been changed by the look of it, and I didn't want to create an additional problem. So I decided to leave the line on, and clean the calipers "in situ".

This worked pretty well. Made a photo to aid this thread for future reference. The rag is soaked in clean brake fluid, and I gently forced it around the caliper with a bend piece of iron ( coat hanger really). The corroded bit I polished with wire wool as much as I could.

Next the bleeding.

Done as Haynes said. Started on the pax (!) side ( this one was easy cause I hadn't un-done these lines. Finished on the Driver's side. Also bleeded both inner-side together, then the outer side.

Read Jim's thread, and also tried the clever back-bleed way, but think I couldn't produce enough pressure. So I bled the system (both fronts only). Pedal still to the floor. Bled again, same result. Third bled a bit better but stil not as before.

Ok, part result. Got no sticking brakes no more !! But the reverse, trouble stopping!!

Right, here my questions:

Obviously I need to bleed a bit more. But when I start on the pax side, full fluid from all valves comes from the start. Same at the driver side, besides 1. The top inner one seems to be the trouble maker. It does not produce anymore bubbles, but neither lots of fluid on the bleed (not like the other inside one that bleeds like a ......)

1- am I correct to narow it down to 1. Should I just bleed this one more or do they ALL come into play

2- Can I concentrate on that one, or MUST I follow the sequence

3- Will the sysem bleed itself ? I need to leave the car for a week anyway (think not personally)

4- anything else


Or do I just have to pump/bleed all ore and more. It looks like all are bleeded but oviously not.


ps. do not have the cylinders extend all the way to the disc. You'll have trouble forcing them back.

Hi dude.

Did you start at the back nearside first? I read your post and wasn't sure. Did you do the dual circuit at the same time?

lorri789 said:

Hi dude.

Did you start at the back nearside first? I read your post and wasn't sure. Did you do the dual circuit at the same time?

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Just did both front in the sequence as described. And the near-side front, which lines were not disconnected, bleeds perfectly clean all the time.

there are three bleed nipples on your calipers make sure you bleed from each one

Definitely air in there. Usually when bleeding the brakes you will have to do the lot and s dt above says make sure you do ALL the nipples.

PAssenger rear first, then driver rear.

Passenger front and then driver front.

I do the method with the reservoir lid loose

All nipples are bleeded. And in sequence. Just the top one that is less enthousiastic then the others.

Can I bleed the top one on its own till it produces lots of fluid and then the both of them together (and 3rd one after), or do I have to do the 2 (inside nipples) together all the way. It means the bottom one is going to spill a lot of fluid cause its bleeded fine already

On the front, you do the top one and the lower one on the same side of the caliper. then you move over to doing the top and the lower one on the other side iirc.

I have found a pressure bleeding system invaluable for this job. Even a cheap one that uses a spare wheel for pressure is a great help, as it allows a steady flow of fluid to push the air out.

Sheffield said:

I have found a pressure bleeding system invaluable for this job. Even a cheap one that uses a spare wheel for pressure is a great help, as it allows a steady flow of fluid to push the air out.

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Can I use the compressor in this somewhere ? (low pressure no doubt)

How does that press bleed system work ? Where does it apply the pressure.

order you bleed calipers in doesnt really matter ,did you clamp flexi pipes wen removing pipes ,if not whole system may need doing ,conventional bleeding is fine and better if nipple is closed for upstroke of the pedal ,you can narrow air down by clamping each flexi in turn and trying pedal

Int there sometimes a hidden nipple above the front axle?

jamesmartin said:

order you bleed calipers in doesnt really matter ,did you clamp flexi pipes wen removing pipes ,if not whole system may need doing ,conventional bleeding is fine and better if nipple is closed for upstroke of the pedal ,you can narrow air down by clamping each flexi in turn and trying pedal

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Ah, yes, flexi pipes not clipped. Now it makes sence. Better not mess about anymore and bleed it properly all the way.

Sheffield said:

I have found a pressure bleeding system invaluable for this job. Even a cheap one that uses a spare wheel for pressure is a great help, as it allows a steady flow of fluid to push the air out.

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+1 Halfords | Gunson Eezibleed best £20 I've spent .... I had to bleed my system approx 7 times ... pretty straight forward how it works .. plenty of info. on how to use it .. I didnt use anymore than 10 p.s.i out of a spare tyre didn't want to risk blowing the master cylinder reservoir up and had to keep the pressure topped up because I was using a 8" trailer tyre

Buell S1 said:

+1 Halfords | Gunson Eezibleed best £20 I've spent .... I had to bleed my system approx 7 times ... pretty straight forward how it works .. plenty of info. on how to use it .. I didnt use anymore than 10 p.s.i out of a spare tyre didn't want to risk blowing the master cylinder reservoir up and had to keep the pressure topped up because I was using a 8" trailer tyre

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Used the Gunson Eezibleed (Halfords, MachineMart or any other car parts shop) and got it properly sorted in no time with no effort.

Highly recommended !