bleeding rear caliper

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ySo

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182
Got a seized rear passenger side caliper, do I need to go through full motions of bleeding the entire system or just the rear caliper itself?
Thanks
 
Got a seized rear passenger side caliper, do I need to go through full motions of bleeding the entire system or just the rear caliper itself?
Thanks

No just get yourself some brake pipe clamps. Clamp the flexi change the caliper and just bleed the new unit.
 
Cheers, unfortunately the banjo bolt is seized real good and the head rounded :(

---STUCK :(
 
not if you get them damn tight and a wack with a hammer first :rolleyes: Done a few like that and it works.;) And there is more than one way to skin a cat

Why would you do that ?

Why not use the proper tool for the job ?

The correct size 6-sided socket ... yes, you may have to tap it on, but it will not round the bolt head, it'll shear before then ...

Correct tool for the job ;) always ... ask an engineer :D
 
Why would you do that ?

Why not use the proper tool for the job ?

The correct size 6-sided socket ... yes, you may have to tap it on, but it will not round the bolt head, it'll shear before then ...

Correct tool for the job ;) always ... ask an engineer :D

Dips quite often a tight bolt or fastener can be undone easier if it is shocked first. Standard practice. And yes you are quite correct never use a twelve pointed socket on anything that is tight or remotely rusted up. :);)
 
was using the correct socket, the bolt head was badly rusted and basically fell apart.

Got it off in the end, changed the caliper, took it for a drive, works good, no roasting hot alloy.. oh wait, the driver side one decided to go now :( wtf.....
 
was using the correct socket, the bolt head was badly rusted and basically fell apart.

Got it off in the end, changed the caliper, took it for a drive, works good, no roasting hot alloy.. oh wait, the driver side one decided to go now :( wtf.....
Flush and replace the brake fluid if it hasn't been done.
 
Flush and replace the brake fluid if it hasn't been done.

A brake fluid flush should be done every 24 months in dry conditions and 12 months in humid environments ... cos the brake system is not sealed its open to atmosphere at the top.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and pulls moisture out of the air quite easily as well as degrading over time with use. The water laden brake fluid is also denser than the clean stuff so will work its way down to the low points in the system and cause problems... :)
 
A brake fluid flush should be done every 24 months in dry conditions and 12 months in humid environments ... cos the brake system is not sealed its open to atmosphere at the top.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and pulls moisture out of the air quite easily as well as degrading over time with use. The water laden brake fluid is also denser than the clean stuff so will work its way down to the low points in the system and cause problems... :)

Google is a marvelous thing you know. I have had my P38 for five years it has never had the fluid changed in that time and there is no moisture in it. :D:D
 
Does no harm to change it, but 12 months in a damp climate and 24 months in a dry climate is bloody ridiculous. There really is some ****e info out there. P38 service sheet renew every 36,000 miles. P38 Export service sheet, renew every 60,000 miles.
 
Does no harm to change it, but 12 months in a damp climate and 24 months in a dry climate is bloody ridiculous. There really is some ****e info out there. P38 service sheet renew every 36,000 miles. P38 Export service sheet, renew every 60,000 miles.

+1;):lol: To say the least Wammers. Couple of members like having shots at the yank.
 
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