Best anti-rust treatment for a patched D2 chassis

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Stanleysteamer

Stanleysteamer

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Hi All,
As I post a local 4x4 guy is patching my chassis. I hope he's cut the carp out and replaced it with 3mm new plate but I have no idea.
Anyway, what do peeps think is the best thing I can do to try and hold back the rust bug until and if I eventually get around to replacing it, at least in part.
I have no preferences or prejudices, I am thinking or some rust protection stuff for inside, like Waxoyl and some other treatment for outside, i.e. rust convertor preventor then a paint of some kind?
Open to all ideas!
 
Last edited:
I like fertan rust converter, seems to last ages (over a year) even when unpainted.
I cannot recommend kurust as under same circumstances was rusty again in a fortnight
 
Kev12 said:
I like fertan rust converter, seems to last ages (over a year) even when unpainted.
I cannot recommend kurust as under same circumstances was rusty again in a fortnight
Click to expand...
Cheers mate, will look to see where I can get some from! :)
Anyone else got a favourite?:)
 
Have done a lot of research last night and Fertan does seem best for an area you can't get at to paint easily, i.e. inside box section. I have decided to go for a rust converter that lasts a long time, which seems to be this stuff.
Interesting how they all work slightly differently. One other, Corroseal seems to be very good too.
will have to see which I can get and spray more easily. Both available locally to me which is good news.
Thanks for your opinions.:):):)
 
Fertan has to be washed off. Bilt hamber hydrate 80 where you can’t get at it with a brush or water. Then bilt hamber cavity wax. Fill the lot with a few cans.
 
prime new steel,top coat and coat with waxoyl, how many rusty engine parts of the chassis do you see? converter inside the chassis then waxoyl or as i use liquid grease, fire it right in!
 
+1 on fertan

+1 on Bilt Hamber stuff - everything they make is top quality - Dinitrol is equivalent IME - have you seen the pics I have posted of either of our D1 chassis' ?

-1 on waxoyl - used to be good - but now a domestic product, and utterly safe and utterly useless IME.
 
The info just keeps on coming! Thanks people!
I am interested that one person said "Fertan has to be washed off". Haing read what I can about it, it does indeed say it can be washed off or brushed off, but it also says it is great inside box sections. Obviously I am not keen to treat inside the box section of the Disco 2's repaired chassis, then to add water!

Bilt Hamber seems to be OK without the need to wash stuff.
It has been finished today and the guy who did it did a serious job, cutting all the rust out and welding in 3 mm plate. So am going to get hold of some Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 then once it has had a few days to go off, I'll fill the section with ... well I was going to say Waxoyl which despite some negative press still seems to be rated by others. But I'll do a bit more research and find out exactly what really is the stuff to use. I have taken very seriously all posts on this. As with so much there are always posts both for and against certain materials. I do know that neat Waxoyl is not necessarily the best idea, but thinned, warmed and with added oil is often seen as being great. Will look also at the Bilt Hamber coating or filling stuff. Seems wise to use one product with another by the same manufacturer as they ought to be complimentary.
Cheers mates!:):):):):)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Have done a lot of research last night and Fertan does seem best for an area you can't get at to paint easily, i.e. inside box section. I have decided to go for a rust converter that lasts a long time, which seems to be this stuff.
Interesting how they all work slightly differently. One other, Corroseal seems to be very good too.
will have to see which I can get and spray more easily. Both available locally to me which is good news.
Thanks for your opinions.:):):)
Click to expand...
vactan rust treatment works and you just apply and leave it doesnt need painting over but you can if you want,obviously it will only treat what it can touch,but that applies to any coating,none will stop deep rust only surface
 
Myself and the gent above have gone to town with rust. I’ve used fertan with effect, however not where I can’t get at. My whole chassis is filled with the cavity wax, outside was wire wheeled down, treated with deox gel (also Bh) then electrox, then epoxy mastic or corrolless on top. Will also get the under body wax sprayed all over it prior to going on the road. You feel how heavy a ton of electrox weighs then you’ll see why it’s expensive. BH stuff is honestly top notch.
 
EED43619-0585-4E91-8D14-E0CE1B38C897.jpeg
 
Nice job! That's a D1 isn't it? Judging by the inside of the doors and the holes in the bodywork!
Chap who did the welding reckons it is possible to put a D2 body on a D1 chassis and went into a lot of detail as to how to do it, as I have one of each and the usual rust problems in both!!
But I don't want to lose the character of my D1 Anniversary despite the rust in the sills.
 
It is and wasn’t your typical. Chassis had a little more work required than most but it’s all done now. Body still ongoing. I don’t really plan on doing another anytime soon! Good luck with yours and put the effort in with the right products and it will last! @Disco1BFG will show you a picture of his sills simply treated with bh wax few years ago and they still like new.
 
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