BCU Repair or Replace?

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Managed to get the car started again so I stopped the engine and quickly removed the battery so that I could remove the BCU.

I'll update the thread once I have more info on whether the BCU is faulty.
 
##UPDATE##

I sent my BCU off to Rick after removing it from the car whilst it wasn't immobilised and he tried a number of times to read it but with no success. In the end, he took the chip out of the bcu and soldered it into another known good bcu.

I received it back yesterday and fitted it back to the car. It started ok and the indicators worked in both directions. After running the engine for approx 2-3 mins, I noticed that the crossed "B" next to the mileage was flashing. I tried the indicators again and they had stopped working. I turned off the engine and everything was dead. No immobilisor response, no central locking or alarm and no indicators.

Since then I've tried leaving the ignition on for 5 minutes to reset the connectionion between bcu and idm, no joy. Tried battery off overnight and reset again today, still no joy. I've now fitted another IDM/Fuse box, reset for 5 mins again but I'm still getting the flashing B and no BCU response.

Any suggestions?
 
Thanks for that.

I thought myself it's the BCU too, as I never had the crossed B before, and the only thing changed was the BCU.

Time for me to start researching Hawkeye vs. Nanocom then......
 
Replacement BCU fitted this afternoon and programmed using nanocom.

Now all sorted! Fingers crossed it stays that way...

I ended up replacing the RF receiver too as it was hit and miss programming the key into it.

Thanks for all the advice
 
well done:), i hope you set the alarm to "aways disarm with key" and read the EKA to know it... with nanocom you can insert your own EKA, e.g your card's pin code or some other code you want but with smaller numbers to be easyer to insert in case of need ;) ...if you see what i mean.
 
To be honest, we fumbled through the programming as we weren't familiar with it. That's a good shout though, will plug it in again and do that.

When you say set it to "always disarm with key" what does that mean? Surely the key is the only way to disarm it?
 
I have also had BCU problems relating to lost key. The EKA code supplied by Landrover did not work and my local landrover specialist said he fitted a secondhand BCU and reprogrammed a new key. It now works fine and my mileage has not changed either. Strangely I found a different EKA code written on a page in the handbook which matches the one given to me after the secondhand BCU was fitted. I did query this and the garage stated that the EKA code had obviously been transfered from the ECU once power was restored. Is this possible or have I been seen off.:confused:
 
OK, so how could this be accessed if the alarm could not be disarmed. I disconnected the battery and had the vehicle transported to the garage. He pulled the horn fuse and put battery lead back on and tried the LR supplied (by him) EKA code which would not work. He then said that his plug in kit could not access the BCU whilst alarmed and thus a new one was needed. I left the vehicle with him and he called me to say he had a good secondhand BCU which could be fitted for half the price of a new one. I agreed to this and it cost me £545 plus £208 for a new key and programming. It was only later when putting the EKA code in the handbook l found it matched the one written in the section for EKA codes which l had not found before. Can BCU codes be over written ?
 
AAArrrghhhhhh:mad2::frusty:...i dont want to ruin your day but you was ripped off... you better know for the future a working used BCU together with 2 coded keys is max 150 quid and the fitting+programming is a max 30 minute job, e.g ywc000310 | eBay , as a new one is http://steveparkers.com/ywc000310-body-control-unit.html ... for the money you paid you could have buought the BCU + keys and your own nanocom tester to do the job...

when the new/replacement unit is on the car you can insert what EKA you want in it with tester, for example i saved my card's pin-code to not forget it and be easyer to insert...EKA some times used to have greater numbers up to the hexadecimal code(16) and in this case is harder to insert that's why is recommended to use a simpler EKA with smaller numbers to be easy(e.g 1. 3. 2. 4.) cos you dont have to turn the key so many times if you see what i mean(i saw kinda 9. 13. 6. 12. EKAs not once)

next time ask here before you spend such amounts of money:tea:
 
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Many thanks Sierrafery for your great information. I am now sure that he has not chaged my BCU but was able to read the code from it somehow ? How else would it have the same EKA code as written in my handbook, surely not coincidental and not reloaded from ECU. Also earlier in this thread it mention mileage storage is in the BCU, could that be changed using Hawkeye or Nanacom, as my mileage is as was before the change. I feel that l need to challenge the garage mainly because l dont think it has been changed at all.
 
the mileage which is stored in BCU can be only incremented and it's in relation with the mileage stored in the odometer memory(cos this one has it's own) which means if you put a lower mileage BCU than you have it will assume the higher mileage from the instrument pack and if you put a higher mileage BCU the instrument pack will assume the higher mileage

IMO the only likely explanation is that he managed to remobilise somehow the car and IF he put another lower mileage BCU this one assumed the existing mileage from the odometer and he could have saved the original EKA in it ... go to him, make a bluff and tell him that you checked and it seems to you that the BCU is the same or ask him to give you the removed BCU right away(as it belongs to you anyway at the price you paid for the(so called) replacement and watch his face....or other tricks cos i dunno how would you be able to find out the truth now... what's certain is that you paid A LOT:mad:
 
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