battery terminals with provision for extra leads

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gstuart

gstuart

D3 Grandad
Full Member
Posts
30,980
Location
Kent
hi

was wondering if u may be able to help plse

wish to take an extra fuse box off the battery, for my spots, fogs and other aux supplies

on looking at them the positive terminal im not worried about as there is a bolt which i can easily take a lead from

however the earth lead is just the standard clamp on one

been trying to find a terminal where i can cut the old earth clamp off, then find a terminal clamp where the earth lead will screw into it , but also have studs on it in order i can take an earth supply off it

been traipsing the net to no avail, was wondering if anyone may have one already of recommend a place plse

thks so much and as always most appreciated
 
Can't you just earth the fuse box to the body? Does it have to be on the -ve battery terminal?

Have a look at caravan quick release clamps. You can get a few wires in those if that's the route you're after.

Or maybe THESE?

Or possibly THIS STYLE??
 
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There is an earthing connector secured to a stud on the inner wing, just follow the battery neg. lead from the battery about 9" or so. It's located close to the front N/S ABS cable connector. From memory, its a M6 stud and is a main earthing point to the body.
 
fantastic thks so much guys, always the way , look for ages and u both find them in 10 minutes flat

like the caravan ones and not a bad price either

ref the fuse box, ive got 2 x 1 metre battery cables and was going to put the fuse box i side the passenger side glove box, as with the aircon pipes in the way seems a bit tight

just thought also the fuse box inside would keep it away from any water ingress and alot easier for access

my only concern is if i take the cb off the fuse box if i will get any interference
 
yu can always use an earthing bus bar (#or several) - something like this......



538.gif

Single pole terminal block with
7 cable screw fix holes.
Plastic base with fixing lug.
Ref 538. £5.02
 
gstuart said:
fantastic thks so much guys, always the way , look for ages and u both find them in 10 minutes flat

like the caravan ones and not a bad price either

ref the fuse box, ive got 2 x 1 metre battery cables and was going to put the fuse box i side the passenger side glove box, as with the aircon pipes in the way seems a bit tight

just thought also the fuse box inside would keep it away from any water ingress and alot easier for access

my only concern is if i take the cb off the fuse box if i will get any interference
Click to expand...

Should be O.K. as the main culprits for interference are H.T. ignition (Petrol Engines) and the Alternator. Both of these are well suppressed against interference on all cars made in the past 20 or so years. Any interference is picked up by the antenna and not via the power supply leads from what I can remember.
 
cheers guys

i was just worried about the interference but the last time i had a cb was in my series landy and heard the buzzing when u revved it up, but like u say alot of newer cars have suppressors etc

nice to know where i can now get the battery terminals , as the earth clamp to be honest is a little loose on the battery and just thought in killing two birds with one stone

already ran some spare trunking through the bulkhead when i had the dashboard out, where my clutch isnt there so easily done for my cables, also ran a pre made cb aerial lead under the carpet from front to back when i done the interior in forward planning

see most fuse boxes have got a metal terminal strip for one side of the fuse box to save daisy chaining the earth side

got a decent plan of action now thks to u guys

as always most appreciated
 
gstuart said:
see most fuse boxes have got a metal terminal strip for one side of the fuse box to save daisy chaining the earth side
Click to expand...


Theres a reason for that - power is brought in on one main cable, through the fuses, to equipment and then to earth. the earthing points are usually close to the equipment and to the body. there is no need to run the earths back to a central point. that just makes the cabling longer, unnecessarily.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Theres a reason for that - power is brought in on one main cable, through the fuses, to equipment and then to earth. the earthing points are usually close to the equipment and to the body. there is no need to run the earths back to a central point. that just makes the cabling longer, unnecessarily.
Click to expand...

thats what i thought and seeing i can use the earthing blocks around the car had a lightbulb moment when u said about it,

happy days

just mounted the two front square spots on the car and dont like them, they seem to stick forward too much, going to look around for some more, where the mounting bolt goes underneath the light body to bring them closer to the grill

at least it keeps me occupied, lol

these were the fuse boxes i was looking at

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1060/category/63
 
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yep ur spot on, wasn't thinking straight regarding the earths to a fuse box

that when thks to u guys my old brain had a lightbulb moment and gave myself a kick

going to run a positive to the fuse box and then pick up the earths off the terminal blocks around the car next to the items

sorry
 
Back in the day, ......(all old people say that!) I drove rally cars in competition. Fun times.

At that time CB radios were BIG, and I installed my fair share of them. CB is pretty much dead on these shores at this time (except the trucking industry, but even that is slowly dying).

Anyway,......I just installed the driving lamps on my wife's Hippo, and took the power directly from the battery, and the ground from the 10mm nut on the left side of the left footwell (under the carpet) for the lighted switch. The lamp ground, I took from the inside of the front crossmember (on the top) where two 10mm nuts hold the rad bracket. These are not "designated ground points", but ANY clean/dry bolt to the body IS a "ground point". I wanted direct power to the switch for several reasons, but.....for the CBs I installed in the past, I always used the power lead of the radio. I found out that if I wire the CB to the radio power, it has no interference at all. Radios always had decent noise suppression built into the line. No need for separate fuses either (just an inline fuse for the CB lead). Power is always on (IF the ignition is in AUX possition), and you can't leave it on by accident, and drain the battery.

One of the reasons I wired the lamps directly, is to be able to use them independently of the car systems (in case she is stuck in the mountains with the vehicle), and hence the lighted switch. If it's on, you can't miss it. It lights the whole footwell in the faint green, but it's mounted down low (close to the gas pedal), so it can not be turned on by accident, and left on.

Of course, the ground point can be taken from anywhere. In case of the CB,.....the only cable that needs to be routed through the interior is the antenna, but power supply/ground are very short wires, and can be connected anywhere.
 
frontfusebox.jpg


Photo26-05-2013165522.jpg


This is what my CB and front bumper / internal equipment goes through. I have another fuse box and relay system in the boot for the roof rack.

In this fuse box is from left to right,

Bonnet amber strobe relay
Overhead switch panel feed + Rally map light
Driving Lamp switch panel feed.
Footwell Leds
CB
Dash Aux sockets (2 mounted on the back of the binnacle)
Driving lamps (Bonnet) relay feed.
 
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