Bankz's 110 Double Cab

Put it down as spray practice

Haha I shall. I may have got the wrong paint tho.... last time I did it was the doors and it came out quite well. Then again is was interior only and not really seen.

Also just realised i used the wrong bloody lacquer on the small steel panel which is now copper toned looks cool but a total mistmatch.

Must still have holiday brain

Fresh start tomorrow. Will be at the motor factors for new gas at 8am. If they are how so help them!

Get the rest done and paint on the weekend.

Dont you love it when a plan just fails to come together?

bankz5152 said:

Well f uck. No.

So ruined part of the rear for no reason

Ill get some tomorrow. Thanks

Click to expand...

get yer filler really runny! use storecards, to spread just go mental in sainsburys ask for a few nectar cards etc
run down and re apply if you get pin holes yer mixing was not enough, try to fold not stir the filler if you using ISOPON p38 yoiu be thee all day, go Eurcarparts get a large tube of standard filler.
leave to go ard!
the use filler primer, again rub down with super fine wet n dry
then hit it with top coat mist coat x 2 (dont aim to get full cover yet)
then another two coats (flash dry time is about 30 mins to recoat) leave to go ard then hit with laquer

If thats epsom green metallic use black or yellow primer not white!

Only other thing i would add is remove yer badges and do the whole panel you will loose the dents futher down!
plus no feathering or matching existing paint (which is a PIA) cos out of the tin will ALWAYS be darker more vibrant than exisitng paint so unless you can mix and match like a demon feshional then easier to do a whole panel

etch primer for the burmabright and standard for the steel!

then paint as one panel with yer colour then laquer

halfords rattle cans are very very good estimate two cans for whole panel if primed right!

mate you should have seen the spitfire i did once, just had a go like.

it had a fist sized hole on the rear deck between soft top and boot.
So i used some chickenwire then halfords mesh and slopped on the P38, rubbed it down was well please spent 2 whole days rubbing it down, babys bum smoooov.
The painted it next day it looked like orange peel so thats cellulose paint over wrong filler it looked like i had hit it hard with nitromores the filler went like cream cheese, so i started again
this time paint was all good 1 week later it looked like a open cast diamond mine with each layer of filler sinking so then i rivited a steel sheet underneath with glue grinded of rivets and went at it again with the filler in the end i sold it wth the roof down and told them it had a ****ty repair by someone!

Hahaha weve all done one like that!

If i was doing it 100% id replace the whole panel and the capping (bent/warped from being rear ended last year) but time doesnt allow it!

So will just have to patch it

Got some of the fiberfix stuff ready to refill the holes. As you said they fell out on a small tap

Made some progress tho! Got gas reinforcements are in! Holes drilled for the spare carrier too!

Got a fair bit done today but not without its bloody issues!

Sadly I forgot to account for my sliding tray it fouls on the new door.




So I am going to have to cut away the section where it fouls and reweld. Not ideal but only option.

I can use the tray but without the gas strut and without the spare.


Spare fits perfectly however



I wont be using the standard hinges for long as they just wont stand up to the big spare. Got a mate drawing some up, if that falls through Gore have a set.

Looks pretty decent.



Gas strut has to sit in the middle, wont fit at the bottom or the top.



Locks in too but its a bit pony

Ordered some new corner cappings (where the antiluce sit) as mine have huge 1" holes from the antiluce connectors. Should neaten it up a touch!

Still need to paint it, just waiting for the paint to arrive.

Will also likely fit a sheet on the inside of the door as well.

looking good like the strengthing work and your welding is coming on a treat!

why not use a defender driver door hinge a hd shine ones? 4 fixings per hinge etc
Stick a led torch on the fibre fix it speeds up curing, it think the stuff is superb!

KISSMYAURA said:

looking good like the strengthing work and your welding is coming on a treat!

why not use a defender driver door hinge a hd shine ones? 4 fixings per hinge etc
Stick a led torch on the fibre fix it speeds up curing, it think the stuff is superb!

Click to expand...

Cheers! They open up om an angle not straight like the rears

The fiberfix patches I got where more like a super tough duct tape. Didnt say anything about curing?

WOT YOU BUY RED OR BLUE?
COS YOU NEED THE BLUE
ME FINKS YOU GOT THE RED
JUST CHECKED THE PIC I SENT YOU A WHILE BACK, PHEW I SE4NT YOU THE BLUE!


TOOLSTATION HAVE EM I THINK.

they do three products

1black nasty sticky tape fing thats actually really good. hardens like plastercast
1 flexi
1 rigid

Bollocks... bought the red

Seems alright so far! Hit a few bumps and such holding up well!!

If it goes again ill buy the proper stuff

pmsl thats for canvas tents and soft tops

we all been there though !

Tbf i was rather tired when i went it

Painted and fitted

Lock is a little sticky and needs a bit of a slam to close but otherwise good tight fit. When the spare is on should aid closing anyway!

Rather happy

Just got to wait till tomorrow afternoon so I can polish it then get the spare on. Finish it off. Hopefuy my HD hinges wont take too long!!





Also anyone know if a sort of door card or metal cover exists for the half doors?



Worked out the central locking too. Just need to find the lil plastic pivot. What ever they are called

Whoop. Pulled the trigger. Officially going to Land Rover Party Les Commes again

New "corner cappings" have arrived!

Got just enough paint left to finish them. Will look much better than a 1" hole stuffed with body filler

Just a tip if you put a couple large sockets or any thing really under what your painting to lift it off the floor/ surface ul get a better finish on the edges/under corners and it won’t stick either, other than that looking gooood

haza88 said:

Just a tip if you put a couple large sockets or any thing really under what your painting to lift it off the floor/ surface ul get a better finish on the edges/under corners and it won’t stick either, other than that looking gooood

Click to expand...

Usually d. The parts touching the card are hidden under the capping so finish doesnt quite matter there!

Though cheers!

Set about sorting the exhaust manifold leak today

Went flawlessley

All studs removed with ease and none snapped!

Replaced with Wurth studs and 5mm washers with copper nuts.

Also finally drilled and tapped the manifold for an EGT gauge thats been in the garage for 2 years fitted with some exhaust putty. Hopefully the leak will be cured.



Now fitting a new product from LOF Clutches - improved clutch slave which is supposed to lighten the clutch by 50%

Looking forward to it!