P38A Ball Joint question

pwood999 · Dec 10, 2021

MOT just failed on ball joint & track rod rubber seals. No mention of play in the joints. Ordered new stuff, but considering replacing just the seals on the ball joints until the weather is warmer !!

Track rod & roll bar links will be replaced.

One question: Does the hub actually need to be separated from driveshaft ? RAVE says they can be removed together by removing the 4 bolts holding the hub to carrier ?

Datatek · Dec 10, 2021

pwood999 said:
MOT just failed on ball joint & track rod rubber seals. No mention of play in the joints. Ordered new stuff, but considering replacing just the seals on the ball joints until the weather is warmer !!

Track rod & roll bar links will be replaced.

One question: Does the hub actually need to be separated from driveshaft ? RAVE says they can be removed together by removing the 4 bolts holding the hub to carrier ?

No need to remove the hub from the drive shaft. Be sure to mark the adjuster for the lower swivel, a scratch where the split is located will suffice. If it moves you will need an alignment tool. With the amount of work involved to get to the swivel rubbers, you might as well change the swivels, it will not take much longer.

pwood999 · Dec 10, 2021

ok thanks Kieth. I have a heavy duty ball-joint tool, so hopefully if will do the job.

Next year gonna redo the MOT in the summer (six months early) !!

Mark Piercy · Dec 10, 2021

Yip, I concur with our data, do not move the collars!!!
Don't waste your time on rubber boots. It'll be easier to replace the bar for the same time you'll take

MEYLE do some heavy duty drop link bars with bigger heads.

tomcat59alan · Dec 13, 2021

pwood999 said:
MOT just failed on ball joint & track rod rubber seals. No mention of play in the joints. Ordered new stuff, but considering replacing just the seals on the ball joints until the weather is warmer !!

Track rod & roll bar links will be replaced.

One question: Does the hub actually need to be separated from driveshaft ? RAVE says they can be removed together by removing the 4 bolts holding the hub to carrier ?

The ball joint rubber covers are fitted with the lip internally not externally so impractical to change if you can even find replacements.

Grrrrrr · Dec 13, 2021

Easy enough to do the trackrod rubber boot. Did mine last year after something in the woods damaged it.

The balljoints on the hub are a different matter.

pwood999 · Dec 13, 2021

Parts all arrived today from John Craddock . . . . . . .every one is in Britpart packaging !!

Datatek · Dec 14, 2021

pwood999 said:
Parts all arrived today from John Craddock . . . . . . .every one is in Britpart packaging !!

That's why I use Island where generally you pays your money and you gets a choice

pete12345 · Dec 14, 2021

Yer right there data most items you can get original

pwood999 · Dec 15, 2021

I presume there's no need to drain diff before removing driveshafts ? RAVE does not mention it ?

Datatek · Dec 15, 2021

pwood999 said:
I presume there's no need to drain diff before removing driveshafts ? RAVE does not mention it ?

No need to drain although you may get a few drips when the shaft is removed and a few more when the seal is removed from oil left in the tube.
The static oil level is below the axle tube.

pwood999 · Dec 15, 2021

Thanks Kieth.

Datatek · Dec 15, 2021

pwood999 said:
Thanks Kieth.

Just to add if you jack one side so the axle is off horizontal, there would be oil on the low side, but normally that would not be the side you are working on.

pwood999 · Dec 15, 2021

Got the brakes, backplates & discs off, plus managed to loosen the hub bolts. Set them to about 5mm out, and tried hammering each of the four in turn to shift the hub but no luck. It's now soaking in plus-gas overnight to see if that helps.

BTW, what's the best way to remove ABS sensors ?

kermit_rr · Dec 15, 2021

pwood999 said:
BTW, what's the best way to remove ABS sensors ?

In my case, violent destruction

Datatek · Dec 15, 2021

pwood999 said:
Got the brakes, backplates & discs off, plus managed to loosen the hub bolts. Set them to about 5mm out, and tried hammering each of the four in turn to shift the hub but no luck. It's now soaking in plus-gas overnight to see if that helps.

BTW, what's the best way to remove ABS sensors ?

You will be very lucky to get the ABS sensors out in one piece

tomcat59alan · Dec 15, 2021

pwood999 said:
Got the brakes, backplates & discs off, plus managed to loosen the hub bolts. Set them to about 5mm out, and tried hammering each of the four in turn to shift the hub but no luck. It's now soaking in plus-gas overnight to see if that helps.

BTW, what's the best way to remove ABS sensors ?

Are there two extra threaded holes on the hub that will take bolts to push the hub off the carrier? Or am I thinking of another vehicle?

Datatek · Dec 15, 2021

tomcat59alan said:
Are there two extra threaded holes on the hub that will take bolts to push the hub off the carrier? Or am I thinking of another vehicle?

If there are, I have not noticed them. I put a small shallow groove in the joint at the bolt boss in 2 places and used a bolster and big hammer to free mine

tomcat59alan · Dec 15, 2021

I must be thinking of something else,Transit possibly.if they haven't they should have.

pwood999 · Dec 15, 2021

I like the groove & bolster idea. Also saw in an older thread that someone suggested bunging an old disc on the hub and hitting that, but worried it might cause bearing problems.

P38A Ball Joint question

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