Back wheels locked!

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I have the sticky handbrake brake problem frequently, in fact it needs to go back again to get them stripped and cleaned.

The first time i took it in it went to a local garage. The guy took the drums off, looked at part warn shoes and said that they are ok and the brakes ain;t the issue.

I then took it to "Motorsave" where the guy stripped all the components off the car, wire brushed the cack off, copper greased the moving parts and reasembled everything. Problem solved.

I have to have this done every 3/4 months, else the handbrake sticks on.

Thanks

Dave
 
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forgot to say - rub the inside of the drums and the shoe friction material with GLASS PAPER before reassemble and your problem will be gone
good luck


My issue is that brake dust builds up on the handbrake level in the drum, stopping it from being able to spring back and release the shoes from the drum, even though the handrake is off inside the car.

The only solution is regular cleaning out. Glass papering the drums/shoes don;t solve the problem as the dust builds up again over about 3/4 month period
 
bodmin,,, its not suffice to just remove the drums , the rear brakes need a more thorough examination , kwik-fit are an outfit who are bascically part fitters, , your choice,,
 
hi wilma, your problem is sticking rear brakes, , its very common , (dont listen to the idea that it may be the diff,) lol you have to laugh ,
remove the rear wheel drums and check the cables, make sure they are free to move, , lubricate the moving parts and some anti-sieze on the contact points and piviots, , rub the inside of the drums and the shoe friction material before reassemble sand your problem will be gone
good luck



just incase you missed it :)
 
Mine is exactly the same. I had it done six months ago & it's getting bad again now especially with all the rain & floods.

ps. If Kwik-Fit check things out & say it's ok, then that's probably where the problem will be.
 
With the handbrake off (parked overnight) there was no locking of the wheels in the morning!

I drove a short spell, parked up, applied the handbrake... On my return, the back wheels were locked.

Therefore as suggested I now understand it to be a brake problem and not a final drive problem.

Now I just need to fix it!

I'll take the very generous advice you have all given and put it into practise.

Kindest regards,

Wilma
 
The handbrake employs two cables that link between the lever and each rear hub. As I may have mentioned, the cables are probably worn, dry, contaminted, rusted. Something like that. Recomend that you take both rear wheels off, take the drums off, and inspect the brake mechanism. Recommend you then release the cables from the hubs and examine them. Also, get underneath and check for damage. I can't remember the details of the lever end of the cables but I can find out when I get home tonight.

While the drums are off it might be a good idea to lubricate the mechanism with copper grease and check everything is moving correctly. Also check the adjusters are working and are set correctly.

Good luck.
 
Spoke to the tech guy at the stealer this morning, asked about my brake locking on all the time and having to stripp down and un-seize the slides.

He says he know the problem, however there is not really anything that can be done to fix it......just keep having then cleaned out every few months :(
 
Handbrake off a 2001 v6 auto:

Csy0IGI.jpg

PC300733 Csy0IGI
 
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Spoke to the tech guy at the stealer this morning, asked about my brake locking on all the time and having to stripp down and un-seize the slides.

He says he know the problem, however there is not really anything that can be done to fix it......just keep having then cleaned out every few months :(

If the brakes and cables are rebuilt and set properly they won't need doing every few months. So much for dealer technicians eh......must be missing something.
 
have a nephew who works for a naTIONAl tyre and brake company.wouldnt trust him to fit a wiper blade let alone work on safety related items like brakes.and B.O.B is correct in saying that intense heat will cure the problem for good
 
quite agree, Kwik Fit are ****e, but hey.

As for actually fixing the problem, this works:

Remove brake drum and look at the lever on the bottom of the shoe where the cable attaches. This is the bit that usually sticks. Remove and use a hammer and drift to hit the top of the rivet(pivot) holding the lever, but ensure mechanism is supported from other side. This will create a small amount of space at the pivot. The problem will not re-manifest itself. Did mine about 12 months ago, and have done one or 2 others. All still OK.
Hope this makes sense.
 
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