Axle casing rust

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kes86

Active Member
Posts
775
Location
Isle of Man
Whilst lying under the front of the defender this evening, as you do. I noticed the front Panhard Rod bracket on the axle casing is pretty rotten, the bottom bit by the arm bushes has a big hole, I am sure I can repair or fabricate a new bracket and weld it in just fine but would it be better to source a new casing? My mate has got loads of classic Range Rover axles lying about, will they fit a 1995 defender? Can I weld anything insitu if I go for a repair, or is it a full strip down?

Cheers.
 
Considering the axle has seen enough use to have rusting on a strong point as what you've described, I'd recommend going for one of those axles your mate's got lying around. I believe most late model classics (4 door models) share suspension components with the defender so it should work.... all the best
 
Not sure what age the axles are, as they are lying in a barn, what are the differences? If not he does have two 4 door rangies in the yard and one may be getting scrapped. Also think another mate has a galvanised casing but can't remember if it is front or back. Will do some texts and find out.

Cheers
 
Ok. Got the option of a 4 door Range Rover Axle case. Or a 3.9 EFI Range Rover axle but I need to strip it off.

Anything to watch out for or will that sort the issue.

Ta muchly.
 
Got a case with good swivels, the diff was 10 spline so my mate is keeping it, the case has the 7 bolt hub to axle fixings not the older 6 bolts, so I can paint it up and strip the old axle out and rebuild it. Can't see the point in messing trying to fix the old case.
 
Expect the bolts and nuts holding the axle to the radius arms to put up a fight. Will be a good idea to blast them with loads of WD40 and allow it to sit overnight to help loosen them up. Take out all the bits from the axle, give them a good clean and check for what can be reused and chuck the rest out. Best of luck mate....;)
 
Righto. Picked up new axle tonight, and stripped it down and painted the casing. I cracked most of the nuts and bolts on the defender axle so hopefully the old one should come off, I am likely to have spare bits from the new axle. What is worth keeping? The stub axles seem good and the spheres are ok with the odd small rust dot. The shafts and CVs are not the same so will be given away or tipped.
 
Just thought I would put up a photo of the rust to show why I am changing the axle
63A76DC7-7924-47D9-9C74-35FCACF6EB4C-4070-00000688C536AFD9_zps3ac54ff1.jpg


New casing ready to change. All painted up with chassis black paint.

2A03F492-3EE9-4883-9FDF-D8B0594F98EA-4070-0000068692A26E69_zpsd8eee3b2.jpg


A bit cramped in my lil old garage but at least it fits in.

77822954-B1C2-4698-B433-E099294919EF-4070-000006874660410E_zps1046ec7b.jpg
 
Just thought I would put up a photo of the rust to show why I am changing the axle
63A76DC7-7924-47D9-9C74-35FCACF6EB4C-4070-00000688C536AFD9_zps3ac54ff1.jpg


New casing ready to change. All painted up with chassis black paint.

2A03F492-3EE9-4883-9FDF-D8B0594F98EA-4070-0000068692A26E69_zpsd8eee3b2.jpg


A bit cramped in my lil old garage but at least it fits in.

77822954-B1C2-4698-B433-E099294919EF-4070-000006874660410E_zps1046ec7b.jpg

Excellent, that's what I'm doing to mine, so satisfying when shiny axle is fitted up, especially with those yellow springs, looks good:)
 
Hello mate,
I wouldn't advice you go ahead with the axle swap in your workshop... Looks a tad bit too cramped for that kinda work. The axles are heavy and you're gonna need loads of space to move them around. Doesn't look like you have enough there....
He's going to pull the old one out with the winch:cool:
 
Yes, not undoing any bolts gonna rip it out with the winch and fix it up afterwards. Nah hopefully the bare casing won't be too hard to swap and rebuild once its on.
 
not sure how far you've got, but if thats the door at the back, you'd be best reversing in, then at least you can roll the axle forwards and out...
 
The Fender won't go into the garage backwards, it hits the garage door with the back of the roof.

It only just goes in forwards.

The only thing I which may be a problem is getting out the n/s half shaft, but should be able to slide the case over once its off.

Going for it tonight after the kids are in bed.
 
Failed to get anything done last night. As the in-laws came round for tea with wine.
But luckily got some time this afternoon to get the axle stripped out. Not too traumatic, it must have been off before as all the bolts came out eventually. There were a couple of washers missing and wrong bolts in a couple of places but got a full set off the spare axle. The callipers look like they will need new pistons, but will refit with existing brakes and order up some seals and pistons. There is a big flat on one of the disks so the wheel mush have come off at some point and skidded along the road!

B4C8F08A-440C-4E8F-8A9E-E0265B2BD4B2-4070-000006861270F1A3_zps3dcbfd36.jpg


Anyway axle on floor, time to start digging out the new parts.

C62588FF-E3DF-4292-8A8D-63B5F237B4C0-4806-000007E720F1CD33_zpsf2f4df70.jpg
 
Update. Painted and re bushed front arms, and stripped the spare hubs to see how they work. Took me most of the evening. Hopefully can start putting it back together Wednesday.
 
Struggled until 1am this morning trying to get the axle casing back in. I think it's because the diff is not in yet so I can't jack it up to get the axle at the right angle for the second arm bolts to line up.

I also need to ratchet strap the arms back to the chassis to get the bushes and nuts on.

Changed over the short turrets which were fitted, to standard height tubular ones. Glad I checked as the shocks would have bottomed out before the axle hit the bump stops.

Anybody know what thread the bolt for the panhard rod to axle is. I don't trust the one that came off so hopefully can source one locally.
 
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