Automatic transmission problem

Hi,

I have a 02 freelander td4 with a automatic transmission. The mileage is 90,000, I'm experiencing some problems with the gear box for the first time. I have owned the car for 3 years and it has a FSH.

The problem occurs when the box is moving from gear to gear. The gears are changing at around 2000 RPM and causing the car to jolt forward slightly, like it wants to throw me out the window! This problem is more apparent when moving from first to second and second to third, less apparent when moving from third to fourth and fourth to fifth. The problem is only present for around 30% of the time I use it, the rest of the time the car drives as well as ever!

Does anyone recall this problem? has anyone worked on a freelander with this problem? what would be the best course of action? could new fluid solve the problem?

The reason I ask, I have never checked or changed the transmission fluid and from my brief research i feel this could be the issue as the car is working fine most of the time. I did through take the car to a local auto' specialist yesterday, I told him what i tell you guys and without looking at the car/problem he said difinitly not fluid. He said 'one of the sensors broken, apparently their are 3? I was quoted £50 for part and £400-£500 for fitting it. He also said that only one of the sensors could be replaced, if any of the others then a ' new box is required (£2000).

Could anyone shed any light please?

any usful comments will be greatfuly resereved,

cheers

J

Have you tried using the search function at the top of the freelander page ?
Ihave no idea.

Kingston,
sorry wrong thread

first off change oil, then check all multi pin connectors that go to the gearbox, do a search they have all been listed as well as how to determine quantity of oil.

Hi , I have a 2000 (w reg) auto diesel (BMW). My problem is that it changes to third and then slips out of gear and will not go to fourth.

I have changed the oil with oil from Land Rover.

Done a diagnostic check and it came up with Auto box ecu faulty.

Sending the car to a gearbox specialist to do a mechanical diagnostic and get a full report. I shall let you know.

Toying with the idea of putting in a manual box.

I shall let you know of the outcome.

Thanks

Mac

mac1999 said:

Hi , I have a 2000 (w reg) auto diesel (BMW). My problem is that it changes to third and then slips out of gear and will not go to fourth.

I have changed the oil with oil from Land Rover.

Done a diagnostic check and it came up with Auto box ecu faulty.

Sending the car to a gearbox specialist to do a mechanical diagnostic and get a full report. I shall let you know.

Toying with the idea of putting in a manual box.

I shall let you know of the outcome.

Thanks

Mac

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If you do need an ECU, I have one from my Freelander, which I am breaking

I also looked into an auto/manual swap for a family friend, and TBH, it would have been cheaper to sell it as is (with a ****ed box) and buy a manual car. Everything is different...

The op's problem of jolting into gear is something my hippo suffered from. Low transmission fluid means air gets in the torque converter and it cavitates. Effectively fooks the torque converter and it needs replaced. If you catch it in time, then your lucky. My auto leaked which caused the low transmission fluid on mine. Best way to get it to jolt into gear is to drive it until warm, switch off, then switch on and start driving. Jolt is more likely to happen now. Switch off and let it cool and jolt will go away when you start driving again. The more you drive it with this sort of damage, the better’er the chance of an expensive fix.

First thing to do is make sure the transmission fluid level is correct. Next comes the computer diagnostic.

There’s the chance it could be one of the sensors, but this would show up on a diagnostic. You need a diagnostic before going further. If the garage you use can’t read your auto’s computer, then they don’t have kit compatible with this car, and can’t judge what the fault is. As an example: LR main dealer charged me £110 for 1L of transmission oil and 1 hour of labour to check the level from cold, and also do a diagnostic check with a computer.

Hippo said:

As an example: LR main dealer charged me £110 for 1L of transmission oil and 1 hour of labour to check the level from cold, and also do a diagnostic check with a computer.

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The transmission level should only be checked when the temperature is between 35-45 degrees C

disco_mikey said:

The transmission level should only be checked when the temperature is between 35-45 degrees C

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Make sure yu remove the right bolt - or else yu will **** the gearbox too .

Hippo said:

As an example: LR main dealer charged me £110 for 1L of transmission oil and 1 hour of labour to check the level from cold.

Click to expand...

disco_mikey said:

The transmission level should only be checked when the temperature is between 35-45 degrees C

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I see your point. I would agree it's between 35 and 45 degrees, but it is still done from cold. They will want the car cold, and start the engine and allow it to warm on tick over. Only when the transmission fluid rises from cold for many hours, to 35-45 degrees will they check the level.