Auto box issues

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paulcl09

paulcl09

Member
Posts
80
Location
cambridge
Hi I have a 1997 2.5 p38 auto I bought it with some issues. Now it seems to go into reverse and drives. If I put it in drive nothing happens. Sometimes I can select 2nd and it will drive. Fluid level is good and is a nice cherry red not burnt. Could some give me some suggestions please.
Also if I put it in park it doesn't seem to do anything it still rolls and I can't select 1st.
 
XYZ switch maybe contaminated. Cable maladjusted maybe. Needs a coat of looking at. What lights and dash messages do you get in each position?
 
wammers said:
XYZ switch maybe contaminated. Cable maladjusted maybe. Needs a coat of looking at. What lights and dash messages do you get in each position?
Click to expand...
Well it says on the dash what gears it's in. If I put it in drive and accelerate it try to move but seems like something is slipping. Reverse is fine. Doesn't make any difference if it's in 4wd hi/lo no warning lights on dash. Now the person I bought it off didn't drive it for 3weeks but he said it's never happened before. It does feel like the gear lever isn't selecting properly it seems like it doesn't move forward enough to select park and not backward enough to select 1st. And it's hard to get it to N I usually get the gears either side of it. So reverse or 3rd if that's correct.
Thanks
 
paulcl09 said:
Well it says on the dash what gears it's in. If I put it in drive and accelerate it try to move but seems like something is slipping. Reverse is fine. Doesn't make any difference if it's in 4wd hi/lo no warning lights on dash. Now the person I bought it off didn't drive it for 3weeks but he said it's never happened before. It does feel like the gear lever isn't selecting properly it seems like it doesn't move forward enough to select park and not backward enough to select 1st. And it's hard to get it to N I usually get the gears either side of it. So reverse or 3rd if that's correct.
Thanks
Click to expand...

You need to be looking at cable change mechanism and adjustment first of all i would think. RAVE has instructions for initial position of gear lever just follow it. XYZ switch maybe worth taking a look at internally. Making sure all the fingers are in proper contact cleaning and re lubing. Either side of N are D and R. XYZ can be tricky to set up mark it's position if you remove it to give you a chance.
 
Ok thanks to everyone who is helping me. I've just been out tinkering with RR now when I switch the ignition off it says TRANSFER NEUTRAL on dash. I had a look underneath at the motor on the TB case and have found a 2pin electrical connector missing off the sensor below the motor what's this for? Could it be the motor is stuck causing the TB to stay in neutral? I think the xyz switch is playing up as well.
 
paulcl09 said:
Ok thanks to everyone who is helping me. I've just been out tinkering with RR now when I switch the ignition off it says TRANSFER NEUTRAL on dash. I had a look underneath at the motor on the TB case and have found a 2pin electrical connector missing off the sensor below the motor what's this for? Could it be the motor is stuck causing the TB to stay in neutral? I think the xyz switch is playing up as well.
Click to expand...

Don't have a fuse in position 11 by any chance do you, if you have take it out. Only thing on transfer box with a two pin plug is the temp sensor.
 
Ok I took my xyz switch off and it looks like this so it's most likely knackered.
IMAG1228.jpg
IMAG1229.jpg
 
It would seem it has a chance of being the problem. All you have to do now is get the new one back correctly.
 
Hi wammers I've just changed my gearbox for a 4hp-24. Now I have no gearbox fault on dash but it now won't change gear until 4,000 rpm but it changes gear fine in low range. It says the gear I've selected on the dash. Any ideas
Thanks
 
paulcl09 said:
Hi wammers I've just changed my gearbox for a 4hp-24. Now I have no gearbox fault on dash but it now won't change gear until 4,000 rpm but it changes gear fine in low range. It says the gear I've selected on the dash. Any ideas
Thanks
Click to expand...
I would try changing the ECU temperature sensorWhich is the green one under the manifold between cyl 5 and 6
 
ovalandrover said:
I would try changing the ECU temperature sensorWhich is the green one under the manifold between cyl 5 and 6
Click to expand...

ECU temp sensor is under cylinder 4 inlet stub. If engine is starting cold with glow lamps and no glow lamps when warm ECU temp sensor is fine.
 
Ok thanks to both of you I have sorted it. Dodgey connection on temp sensor. Now just the injection pump to do and should be all good I hope.
 
Sorry i am not familiar with that equipment. I use Nanocom. What is the actual apparent problem with your injection pump?
 
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