Anyone good with locks?

Saint.V8 · Jun 30, 2017

Sorry to hear you had a mere with it.....as I said, I did mine in 20 minutes....

Interior door handle off
Window winder off
Interior door release handle 'bowl' off
Sill locking button off
Door card off
Wind window all the way down
Undo the 2 screws holding the interior door release handle to regulator
Undo the 5 bolts holding the regulator in place
Drop window glass to the bottom of the door
Remove the interior door release from the regulator
Remove the regulator assembly from the window glass bottom rail and set aside
Using a bungee cord (or similar method), raise the window glass back to the closed position and strap in place
Note position of the rods
Remove the rods from there little clips
Undo the 3 retaining bolts for the latch mech
Move the window rail out of the way (slight bending may be necessary)
Remove the latch mech.

Refit is the reverse.....

Yes small hands help, which I don't have either......but is doable......and remembering wher ethe rods go helps, although it is not rocket science as their length dictates the position!

Good job in getting it done though.

BlackDogZulu · Jul 3, 2017

Saint.V8 said:
Sorry to hear you had a mere with it.....as I said, I did mine in 20 minutes....

Thanks for rubbing it in! I followed pretty much the same sequence. The main problem I had was getting the old lock out from the door frame, and the new one into position. Haynes said to remove the external handle, which would certainly have helped. But it definitely wasn't 'undo two screws and remove'. There was an internal lever which stopped the handle coming away, and I decided to leave it where it was rather than dismantle something I didn't understand. Also, the rear window guide rail screw was rusted in place and I had to drill it out. There were several places where the Haynes manual bore no relation to what I had in front of me. It covers everything from the n/a diesel right up to the later Td5s, so I suppose I can't complain.

I did it over two days because of the weather, and I would estimate it took me 2-3 hours total. Next time, I will be closer to your 20 minutes I am sure. Cheers.

Saint.V8 · Jul 3, 2017

If you press the external handle button release, this pulls the internal lever assembly in and allows you to wiggle the latch assembly past it and out....

BlackDogZulu · Jul 5, 2017

Saint.V8 said:
If you press the external handle button release, this pulls the internal lever assembly in and allows you to wiggle the latch assembly past it and out....

NOW he tells me! Cheers

Saint.V8 · Jul 5, 2017

BlackDogZulu said:
NOW he tells me! Cheers

Better late than never - that's what I tell the boss when I rock up late to work!!

discomania · Jul 5, 2017

BlackDogZulu said:
Newish (to me) 1996 Defender 90, 300Tdi. Passenger door lock was working perfectly until, one night, it wouldn't latch closed. Just bounced open again, no matter how hard you slammed it. There is a semicircular latching piece visible in the lock edge, and this should be knocked over by the door striker and latch into place, holding the door closed until you press the button or pull the handle. That's what it does on the driver's door; on the pass door it won't lock into place and allows the door to open again.

Took the door card off, gave everything a good wash in WD-40, wiggled all the connectors, made sure nothing was obviously wrong. Lo and behold, it worked again! I opened and closed the door several times to be sure - felt normal. In the morning, I put the door card and winder, handles etc back in place and ... b@gger me sideways it had stopped working again. It's now held closed by bungees until this run of 12-hr shifts is over. As it *can* be made to work properly, I am assuming the issue is wear or adjustment rather than something broken.

I'm happy to fix anything (and usually successful) if I know how it's meant to work in the first place. But door locks always baffle me. Can anyone give me a step-by-step guide to how to check it over and get it working again?

Lock first open, then closed (but won't stay this way):

View attachment 126083 View attachment 126084

For future reference:

Dead easy fix this one, in the second image the latch is held in that position by a small metal pawl, it drops down and holds the latch in place, lots of WD40/GT85/Penetrating oil in there while you move the pawl manually, it will start to drop into place no bother.

BlackDogZulu · Jul 7, 2017

Being completely lazy, I tried flooding it with WD-40 and working the latch for about ten minutes, until WD was running out of the door bottom. Unfortunately no luck, which was the point I decided to order a new one. I am going to take the old one apart to see what was wrong. Hoping I'm not going to be kicking myself when I see a bit of grease or dirt holding the thing open

discomania · Jul 7, 2017

BlackDogZulu said:
Being completely lazy, I tried flooding it with WD-40 and working the latch for about ten minutes, until WD was running out of the door bottom. Unfortunately no luck, which was the point I decided to order a new one. I am going to take the old one apart to see what was wrong. Hoping I'm not going to be kicking myself when I see a bit of grease or dirt holding the thing open

I have explained what is almost certainly wrong, you don't need to take anything apart.

It's not the latch you need to work, it's the pawl which retains the latch in the fully closed position. I battled with this for months until one day I actually looked at it properly and had it fixed permanently in about 3 minutes!

BlackDogZulu · Jul 11, 2017

OK, thanks.

Anyone good with locks?

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

BlackDogZulu

Active Member

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

BlackDogZulu

Active Member

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

discomania

Well-Known Member

BlackDogZulu

Active Member

discomania

Well-Known Member

BlackDogZulu

Active Member

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