Anyone done the static timing on a DSE

As per thread, I'm trying to adjust the static timing on my DSE.

I've marked the current position of the pump and loosened the 2 bolts holding the pump in position.

But I can't rotate the pump any bit whatsoever. I even tried thumping it with a drift (cause hitting delicate parts of a RR with a hammer always seems to help:doh but it wont budge.

Anyone know if I've missed a vital step?

op2:op2:op2:

Beast o Bodmin said:

op2:op2:op2:

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alright BoB ye b*st*rd, how did you know?

Phase two of question, RAVE says 'remove 2 flange nuts and one support bolt'

What support bolt???

hi do you no there is a therd bolt to undo at the botom conecterd to a bracket then it will move but dont over losen the bolts of the pump becous if you do the cog will move. and you will need a dti meter to set the timing on the pump ,and it shud reed inbetwin 0.88 to 0.92 that what it says on the rave cd i have just don mine to day

I even tried thumping it with a drift

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rewmer said:

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Alright, Alright :doh::doh:

it was a small hammer and a brass drift so no harm done

And when it didn't budge first time i came on ere looking for help before I went for a bigger hammer

The last one I was working on had a replacement engine and didn't have the bracket so I never even checked when I went to do my own, just undid the flange bolts and expected it to rotate. when it didn't I thought it was rusted in place like a hub bearing so naturally went for the precision tool.

It wasn't until I saw BoB's reply that I knew something was up .

Checked RAVE and twigged I was missing a nut (to go with the screw loose in me head). Rang Seanmull who knew straight away what I missed. So thanks BoB and Sean.

It rotated easily as soon as I realeased the bolt on the support bracket. Got lucky with first try and Static timing now right bang in spec.

For those with Faultmate, thats timing modulation at warm idle between 45% and 55%. Mine was at 85% now sitting at 51%

So how does it run now?

Hi Sean,

Running really well. Improved low down torque and seems to have cured hot start issue. I don't know if that was timing or changing the idle though as I changed that at the same time. It now idles at 773 revs (was at 728) I can get it to 750 but I'm going to leave it alone a while and see if it really has cured the hot start and stalling issues.

Cormac

SpudH said:

Hi Sean,

Running really well. Improved low down torque and seems to have cured hot start issue. I don't know if that was timing or changing the idle though as I changed that at the same time. It now idles at 773 revs (was at 728) I can get it to 750 but I'm going to leave it alone a while and see if it really has cured the hot start and stalling issues.

Cormac

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best left be them if working.give it a pat in the mornings and buy nice diesel not supermarket ****e.

drive on.

wow thats fantastic news keep an eye on your fuel consumption (just curious)

seanmull said:

wow thats fantastic news keep an eye on your fuel consumption (just curious)

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if he dont spank around with it he could get 25mpg

SpudH said:

It now idles at 773 revs (was at 728) I can get it to 750

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How are you getting such precise rpm readings ? Faultmate ?

hi bob the reason i asked about his mpg is that i cant get better than 22 on my manual mabye 28 on a long run

mcapinha said:

How are you getting such precise rpm readings ? Faultmate ?

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Yeah, Faultmate. I wouldn't have touched the timing without it.

As regards precision, yeah its precise but I don't know how accurate it is, I'm getting quite a variance between the needle lift revs and the crank revs. The needle lift normally settles at crank revs (and always at idle) but during throttle blips etc theres quite a lag and a rev bounce reported by the needle lift sensor.

BTW as an aside I was doing some testing last night that as good as confirmed one of my theories about the 'DSE loses power/cuts out on the over run with the injecor light on'. I've always touted the idea that this was a sign of a failed/failing crank sensor. I noticed last night that the needle lift revs dropped to zero as I lifted off and went over a hump back bridge, exactly the situation that used to trigger a stall for me (that and canceling cruise control).
I know that the EDC uses the two readings to check each other. If the crank sensor is faulty the ECU wont have any revs to check the zero needle lift revs against and will cut out the engine. I believe this is the root cause of the 'engine loses power' saga.
When it used happen to me I found I had an intermittent fault on the no. 4 sensor and a faulty crank sensor so I replaced both but if it happened again the first thing I'd be going for is crank sensor. The engine should run on crank sensor alone, it might need a no 4 sensor too but I'd go crank firts.